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Restored back to original rigs

AJMBLAZER said:
Minus the big blocks right?:waytogo:

I used to be all about built, lifted, tall, huge tired trucks. Then I learned that having to drive hours to go wheeling anywhere challenging sucked. Also that a foot of wheel travel does you no good if you don't live somewhere you can hit the dunes every weekend. Rotating tires sucks when you have 130lb tires. Also that it doesn't take a lot of lift to make a truck too tall to fit under a hypothetical 7' garage door headjam.
I also learned I'd rather have a capable, stockish truck that can be driven daily and used to tow a trailer and hit some weekend wheeling than a big, gnarly tired, flexy suspension truck that I can't use for anything practical, is more of a handful to drive, and local wheeling isn't any challenge for it. Oh, and has to sit outside because it doesn't fit in the garage.
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My '91 is a factory BBC.

The '75 is the CK5 molested trailor slut.:thumb:
 
mrwilliamsburg33 said:
Fabricate the braces? Or is there somewhere that you can buy some?
I did ditch the shocks, they were about to fall apart.
Haven't inspected the floor yet but I know there is some rust in the back, so good idea for check the seat mounts.

Since I'm just starting on this thing, can you just go to the parts store and tell them you want new rear brakes and ask for a heavy duty set or something? Or does upgrading to a towing package cause you to have to change everything back there?
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You can buy the braces from www.OffRoadDesign.com .

I believe you have to change everything from the backing plates out. However I'd recommend first verifying which you have. How big do you want to go in the tire department and do you know your axle gearing yet?

boz42 said:
My '91 is a factory BBC.

The '75 is the CK5 molested trailor slut.:thumb:
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Fair enough.:waytogo:
 
I probably won't go any bigger than 33's, whenever I get there. And as for the gearing, everything is stock. I haven't looked up the specs yet. I think I might have to rebuild the tranny before too long because it wants to hit pretty hard sometimes when it goes into gear.

AJMBLAZER said:
You can buy the braces from www.OffRoadDesign.com .

I believe you have to change everything from the backing plates out. However I'd recommend first verifying which you have. How big do you want to go in the tire department and do you know your axle gearing yet?


Fair enough.:waytogo:
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For 33's you'd want 3.73's or 4.10's. If it doesn't have either of those you could probably run across a set of axles and swap them in. Half ton axles don't go for a lot. I've seen them on CL here from time to time.
Then I'd worry about the brakes.

I'm not a fan of automatics but are you sure it's TV cable is adjusted correctly? They can shift pretty hard if incorrectly adjusted.
 
AJMBLAZER said:
For 33's you'd want 3.73's or 4.10's. If it doesn't have either of those you could probably run across a set of axles and swap them in. Half ton axles don't go for a lot. I've seen them on CL here from time to time.
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I have 32"s...I did this on mine...I had 3.08 gears and found a pair of axles with 3.73s...bought them, installed them in mine, and then sold my axles for what I bought the other ones for.
 
How's she do with that gearing? I want to Put mine on 33's but don't want to kill the already crappy mileage. Part of me thinks with the torque of the TBI motors, it shouldn't really affect it.
 
The 3.73s work great...with 3.08s it would run around 1800 rpm when the torque converter was locked up on the highway...now it keeps rpm around 2100-2200 when cruising on the highway...i get 15-16 mpg on the highway...about 12-13 in town
 
I'd be thrilled with those numbers...I'm struggling to get 14 driving 85% highway. Hopefully it's just the winter gas. I've done a lot of catchup maintenance since I got the truck, so we'll see what happens this spring.
 
I got horrible gas mileage, about 10 mpg, with my old worn out original motor...I took a crate motor, added the edelbrock cam, air gap intake, and carb, then put on headers and duals with turbo mufflers...it made a huge difference in performance and gas mileage.
 
djtejas said:
I got horrible gas mileage, about 10 mpg, with my old worn out original motor...I took a crate motor, added the edelbrock cam, air gap intake, and carb, then put on headers and duals with turbo mufflers...it made a huge difference in performance and gas mileage.
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Yeah, I bet the breathing improvements helped a lot. My motor is fresh (about 10 k on it) and runs out strong. If I can at least maintain the same mileage I'll be happy, but common sense and experience are telling me it ain't gonna happen.
 
I think its okay in the reasoning that it shifts alright while going down the road. The only time it hits hard is when I go from park into drive or reverse. That make any sense?

AJMBLAZER said:
For 33's you'd want 3.73's or 4.10's. If it doesn't have either of those you could probably run across a set of axles and swap them in. Half ton axles don't go for a lot. I've seen them on CL here from time to time.
Then I'd worry about the brakes.

I'm not a fan of automatics but are you sure it's TV cable is adjusted correctly? They can shift pretty hard if incorrectly adjusted.
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You might want to make a post about it and ask the guys. I know just enough about automatics to make me like manual trannies.
 
My stocker...88, tbi, sm465, 3.42s, 31s gets 14 mpgs, no power options, vynil floors, just the way I like it...

Blazer pics (3).jpg

Blazer pics (5).jpg
 
AJMBLAZER said:
You might want to make a post about it and ask the guys. I know just enough about automatics to make me like manual trannies.
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I agree...start another thread and not hijack this one or do a search. From what I have read on here thats your motor mounts/trans mounts that need replacing.
 
COCHEV said:
My stocker...88, tbi, sm465, 3.42s, 31s gets 14 mpgs, no power options, vynil floors, just the way I like it...
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Droooooooooooooooool.:eek1::thumb:

Gimme 33's and 3.73's and I'd be all over it. A 6.2L and I'd offer a child for it.*
















*May not be my child.
 
mrwilliamsburg33 said:
I think its okay in the reasoning that it shifts alright while going down the road. The only time it hits hard is when I go from park into drive or reverse. That make any sense?
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that could be just normal driveline slop.going from drive to reverse moves the drive chain and ring and pinion in the rear and also changes the insides of the tranny from front to rear gears.if your engine is idleing higher than it should,it will also make the tranny jump into gear as the line pressure will be up from the torque converter spinning too fast.kinda like reving the engine and doing a neutral drop into gear.if it clunks into gear then you may have a problem.
 
boz42 said:
Nice, ride. That is how I like to find them.

Is it a survivor? or has it been painted?
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pictures do it way more justice. it has a ding in the pass side front fender and the clear coat is pealing. otherwise it is all stock. it has a little over 40k on a gm crate 350 that was done at a dealership- have the papers. the PO was this kind that had shops do everything and had all the recipts for the work. kinda cool. way different than the ones i usually bring home with all kinds of hackery.

its staying stock stock for a while- like a long while sense "disposable income" is not really in the family vocab right now.

I'd really like to have it repainted the original brown and cruise it around like that. I don't think i want to hammer it on the trails. Should have never sold the burbalanch :doah:
 
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