I have done that more times than I can count. Actually did it once on the trail. Had the truck die for some reason, then couldn't figure out why it wouldn't start. Took me longer than I want to admit to realize.
CK5
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For trail use, I like have the neutral safety switch bypassed.
I thought it would work in park or neutral.
I put a trans in my Truck and couldn't get it started for hours. I haven't had my neutral safety switch mounted correct for years I was bored messing with it one day trying to rig up a mount with no screws it bumped out of position. Got it started then broke the pump in the trans...
When I did the EZ wiring harness it got chucked in the trash.
When I did the EZ wiring harness it got chucked in the trash.
Has to be in park in this one.
How long can a 454 run at 3k RPM before it lets go?
4.11:1 gears and 30.5 inch tires measured from the center of the hub to the ground. 2943RPM at 65MPH.
MPG is going to suck. More than I thought.
How long can a 454 run at 3k RPM before it lets go?
4.11:1 gears and 30.5 inch tires measured from the center of the hub to the ground. 2943RPM at 65MPH.
MPG is going to suck. More than I thought.
If it's right it won't care, just sucks fuel.
I've driven my truck in several 4 hour trips at 2800 RPM. I don't like it, because I feel like with more RPM you get more wear too just by she shear number of cycles, but the engine doesn't care. But I will be swapping in a 4L80E with the blazer project.
Keep in mind most engines from GM and the big three they run them at WOT at max torque output for like 6 weeks straight non stop. A big block is pretty heavy duty really. I've seen this first hand when I worked in The Motor City. Engines just screaming, exhaust manifolds glowing red, and they just sit there, for weeks like that. Then they tear them apart and look for wear. Or fix the issue if it doesn't last. So for a big block to hold at 3K for a few hours is nothing. It will bother you more than it bothers the engine, unless there is an existing issue with it.
I've driven my truck in several 4 hour trips at 2800 RPM. I don't like it, because I feel like with more RPM you get more wear too just by she shear number of cycles, but the engine doesn't care. But I will be swapping in a 4L80E with the blazer project.
Keep in mind most engines from GM and the big three they run them at WOT at max torque output for like 6 weeks straight non stop. A big block is pretty heavy duty really. I've seen this first hand when I worked in The Motor City. Engines just screaming, exhaust manifolds glowing red, and they just sit there, for weeks like that. Then they tear them apart and look for wear. Or fix the issue if it doesn't last. So for a big block to hold at 3K for a few hours is nothing. It will bother you more than it bothers the engine, unless there is an existing issue with it.
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I've had two different 2wd 454 trucks. My old camper special and my current one ton dually. The camper special had a tach and it'd run 3500 rpm on the highway for hours no problem. My one ton has been pegged several times and it sounds wound up. I'd love a 5 speed swap in it. 10 mpg no matter what in both of them.
Ask Ebke about running Drag Week.
Martin
Martin
What did I get done today?
2 new u-joints and the drives haft back in and lubed.
Front panel back on and the wiring plugged in.
Radiator cap located and installed.
Speedometer feed installed and connected to the speedometer.
Dash screwed in.
Transmission cover removed to drill the sound deadening so it could be bolted down. I should have removed it to do the speedo feed.
Wing is bolted down for the last time before the trip.
Dog house hold downs re-installed.
Old dip stick put back in because the new one did not work.
Misc. wiring cleaned up.
Edit.... tightened all of the transmission pad bolts and engine pan bolts. They were all finger tight.
The truck is drivable at this time.
And it fired right up in park.
2 new u-joints and the drives haft back in and lubed.
Front panel back on and the wiring plugged in.
Radiator cap located and installed.
Speedometer feed installed and connected to the speedometer.
Dash screwed in.
Transmission cover removed to drill the sound deadening so it could be bolted down. I should have removed it to do the speedo feed.
Wing is bolted down for the last time before the trip.
Dog house hold downs re-installed.
Old dip stick put back in because the new one did not work.
Misc. wiring cleaned up.
Edit.... tightened all of the transmission pad bolts and engine pan bolts. They were all finger tight.
The truck is drivable at this time.
And it fired right up in park.
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When are you leaving for power tour?
Monday morning at 6am.
I run 2800 at 65, 3k at 70, ran from Mississippi to Wyoming and nearly all the way back and got 10mpg, I don't think it will be bad at all.
I hope not. I can not seem to tune the rich smell out of the exhaust. I have a limited supply of jets for this thing.
Sooooo……burnouts?
I don’t own anything with overdrive, I drive them all a lot, all north of 2500 RPM and they are still all together, I wouldn’t think twice about it. Boat engines spend their whole lives wound tight
One legged if it will.
Had an issue with the speedometer and tach. I did the calibration. supper easy. I had 2 friends and one random guy stop to see if I needed help. Another called me because he turned around to see if I need something, but I was gone. Parked in the shoulder to start the 2 mile run and stopped in the shoulder to do the final set. Did it twice, I was not happy with the first attempt.
The speedo would bounce up abot 20 MPH for just an instant. Notice the tach, that is very small, was jumping 500 rpm. Not doing it together. Speedo would randomly bounce sitting still. I figured some kind of interference. I would look at it when I got home. It backfired through the carb under acceleration 5 times on the journey @Bent77 . Seemed to be vibrating a lot and under horse powered. Idled slower than normal. Sitting at one of the lights I could here a random ticking noise. Noticed it coincided with the tach jumping. OK. A plug wire or the cap is bad.
Drove it home. Vibrating under acceleration. Gutless. I am not happy.
Now in the shop I pop the dog house off. Close the shop doors to make it dark. Fire the truck up and I can see sparking inside of the cap at number 6. Get the tools to pull the cap and I look down as I am climbing in. Number 6 plug wire is hanging over the transmission. Not on the spark plug. When putting the dipstick back in, the dipstick doing the work did not put the plug wire back on.
Have I mentioned how bad my mind has been?
It is fixed now. That was easy, but unnecessary.
The dash is not screwed in because I still have to feed the cruise control.
The radio is not in yet.
I forgot to mention.
I went to Harbor Freight to buy 2 trailer tongue tool boxes to bolt into the bed. I will not have the cover done in time.
I bought them and my 2 cup holders. Was told to drive around the back to pick them up. Got a call from a client. Talked through fixing something because I am now on vacation. Drove home. Pulled in the driveway and realized I did not pick the tool boxes up. My brain is broken. Hung a U'y in the driveway and headed back down town.
I went to Harbor Freight to buy 2 trailer tongue tool boxes to bolt into the bed. I will not have the cover done in time.
I bought them and my 2 cup holders. Was told to drive around the back to pick them up. Got a call from a client. Talked through fixing something because I am now on vacation. Drove home. Pulled in the driveway and realized I did not pick the tool boxes up. My brain is broken. Hung a U'y in the driveway and headed back down town.
Then stop humming
