I have the rattler cam in, purposely made it lope around you in Moab and you told me my firing order was wrong
CK5
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It is.I have the rattler cam in, purposely made it lope around you in Moab and you told me my firing order was wrong
Still passed you in the flats on poison spider
I’m pretty sure we were on the side of the road drinking a beverage waiting for you to get running again…Still passed you in the flats on poison spider
Fuel pump took a crap but I made an exit you can’t deny was good!
You never offered to be my huckleberry…Fuel pump took a crap but I made an exit you can’t deny was good!
Let me read some more first on more LS specific stuff. I’ve been a longtime student of David Vizard, and my friend Robert down the road brought me a fresh book last week
It sounded great for sure!Fuel pump took a crap but I made an exit you can’t deny was good!
Nice score, Oval ports or rectangular? What brand? What springs are on them? They look brand new? Aluminum big block heads are nice, they save you a chiropractor trip!
Did I miss something Wade? I suddenly feel out of the loop...(though our conversation was before you tore your engine apart and found stuff)
A new one, by Billy even, looks interesting. I just ordered it, thank you. I love reading that stuff to see if I can pick up anything.
I have also read a lot of David Vizard's stuff over the years, I have several of his books. They are good reads with a lot of excellent tips to squeeze the power out. It also gives people a good understanding on how the engines work and they can better talk about the engine specifics. I recommend them, good reads.
When it comes to cams, especially for BBC, Vizard likes to use very tight LSA and then degree the cam in on a dyno test to get max power/tq out of it. This works very well and gets big numbers. What you have to be careful with is, and he subtly warns of this, if you use a tight LSA and then don't test it with different cam timings, and just set the cam timing to spec, you often will end up with less power and torque.
Also, this is harder for self tuning EFI because it creates more overlap to confuse the O2 sensor, it will idle rougher than a wide LSA, and won't have as flat of a torque curve, will typically be more peaky. This tight LSA can be good for a race car kept within a small RPM range during the race, but it won't be as consistent with different weather, etc. It will also be more finicky with a manual trans and the gear ratio will be more critical.
Most street strip people don't have a Jesel adjustable belt drive timing set(there are other options) or want the rough idle, so we go a different path. For a long term performance engine I also don't like to use "adjustable" timing sets, as they could move over time. I like to use the 9 keyway sets, so they can't move once degreed in.
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@Babaganoosh /\ this is more of what we were just talking about
I should add, there is nothing wrong with using a tight LSA if you want, that is what some people prefer, and it can work in some applications. And it does give you the cackle and thumpy idle without having to loose your whole bottom end which using a lot of duration can do.
You can also manually tune most EFI if necessary at the lower end.
Also, cams such as the Comp "Thumpr" and Howards "Rattler" cams do grind them advanced more than normal to get some low end back, it's not all bad. I am generalizing.
@Babaganoosh if you are getting tired of the rough idle most of us want at some point or another then we can change that, though it's likely not worth it unless you change some other items at the same time. Plus, I think your cam has a 109 LSA if I remember correctly, ,its tigher than normal, but it's not really super tight to be honest. I would of likely selected a 112 for your application if you did not want "the chop"
, it will not be a night and day difference if you only change that. It will idle smoother yes, 6 degrees less overlap, but you won't suddenly pick up significant power and torque. You would probably see it on the dyno though.
You can also manually tune most EFI if necessary at the lower end.
Also, cams such as the Comp "Thumpr" and Howards "Rattler" cams do grind them advanced more than normal to get some low end back, it's not all bad. I am generalizing.
@Babaganoosh if you are getting tired of the rough idle most of us want at some point or another then we can change that, though it's likely not worth it unless you change some other items at the same time. Plus, I think your cam has a 109 LSA if I remember correctly, ,its tigher than normal, but it's not really super tight to be honest. I would of likely selected a 112 for your application if you did not want "the chop"
, it will not be a night and day difference if you only change that. It will idle smoother yes, 6 degrees less overlap, but you won't suddenly pick up significant power and torque. You would probably see it on the dyno though.
@Bent77 said the exact same thing. The chop is cool but eventually I want to get more out of it.I should add, there is nothing wrong with using a tight LSA if you want, that is what some people prefer, and it can work in some applications. And it does give you the cackle and thumpy idle without having to loose your whole bottom end which using a lot of duration can do.
You can also manually tune most EFI if necessary at the lower end.
Also, cams such as the Comp "Thumpr" and Howards "Rattler" cams do grind them advanced more than normal to get some low end back, it's not all bad. I am generalizing.
@Babaganoosh if you are getting tired of the rough idle most of us want at some point or another then we can change that, though it's likely not worth it unless you change some other items at the same time. Plus, I think your cam has a 109 LSA if I remember correctly, ,its tigher than normal, but it's not really super tight to be honest. I would have likely selected a 112 for your application if you did not want "the chop"
If you want a big improvement you may want a power adder, like nitrous or boost.
To get a lot more power NA, requires a lot more cubes...(stroke the LS or go BBC)
or a lot more RPM, which means less low end, race gears, even more chop, converter, heads, etc.
Everything is a tradeoff. Cost, driveability, power, torque, etc.
To get a lot more power NA, requires a lot more cubes...(stroke the LS or go BBC)
or a lot more RPM, which means less low end, race gears, even more chop, converter, heads, etc.
Everything is a tradeoff. Cost, driveability, power, torque, etc.
I have put the 454 on hold for the Jimmy build. So the L86 is going in Fugly.
The 2wd conversion for the 8L90E is being shipped tomorrow.
I have been talking to Matt with Wicked Wrench Motors. @Fastereddie turn me onto him. Super helpful and answers the phone and my many questions.
Gave me his harness guy. Not worth my time for what he charges.
Made this to move the truck around while I am working on it. Lifts by the front frame rails behind the bumper.
I need to add a hook for a chain.
Bummer, but I suppose it will cruise nicely.
Martin
Martin
does he rework or new wire harnesses ?
That is the idea. Needs to be a freeway cruiser.
Reworks and adds a fuse block rewraps the entire harness.
It's a tuff shed on wheels, it won't be a freeway cruiser! Shoulda went diesel! Use what ya got though.
What's an L86?
6.2 LS with direct injection.
