rpm @ 70 = 1,950 ...... not bad . . but them other gears before will make it want to smoke tires and be fun for sure. 
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
It has room for 35" drag radials. Someday.
Lets do some mathificationalizing.
If the engine needs to move up 3/8" and Wade has 2 existing new engine mounts installed, what could he do geometrically to get that 3/8"?
The engine mount bolts are 17" apart in stock form. That can not be altered because it will put the block in a bind at the mounts.
The top of the bolts are 3-1/16" below the top of the frame in stock form.
If we add a 1/4" plate to the bottom of the engine mounts on the cross member, it will push the mounts 3/16" closer to the center on each side. Not good.
So if we weld a plate onto the bottom of the mounts, redrill the holes 1/4" lower on the mounts, will this slide the mounts out enough?
So when all was said and done. Wade had 17" exactly between the engine bolts. The distance from the top of the frame is now 2-5/8" to the top of the bolts.
3-1/16" minus 2-5/8" equals 7/16". Success. I have 1/2" clearance on the tie rod now at straight steering location. The highest place in the movement.
I was able to cut a piece of flange by the valve cover, so I am good for an inch there. I hope that is enough.
Now I need to add the LSX Innovations power steering brackets and the new pump to the engine. Paint all of the welded areas.
If the engine needs to move up 3/8" and Wade has 2 existing new engine mounts installed, what could he do geometrically to get that 3/8"?
The engine mount bolts are 17" apart in stock form. That can not be altered because it will put the block in a bind at the mounts.
The top of the bolts are 3-1/16" below the top of the frame in stock form.
If we add a 1/4" plate to the bottom of the engine mounts on the cross member, it will push the mounts 3/16" closer to the center on each side. Not good.
So if we weld a plate onto the bottom of the mounts, redrill the holes 1/4" lower on the mounts, will this slide the mounts out enough?
So when all was said and done. Wade had 17" exactly between the engine bolts. The distance from the top of the frame is now 2-5/8" to the top of the bolts.
3-1/16" minus 2-5/8" equals 7/16". Success. I have 1/2" clearance on the tie rod now at straight steering location. The highest place in the movement.
I was able to cut a piece of flange by the valve cover, so I am good for an inch there. I hope that is enough.
Now I need to add the LSX Innovations power steering brackets and the new pump to the engine. Paint all of the welded areas.
Depends on the track.
And I will peddle it at 75mph because I am a chicken.
Because it sucks at that speed?
The wing was vibrating going around Atlanta at 75mph. And it's an aluminum box.
Too much math this early on a Sunday. But glad you sorted out the problem.
Also if Tom Bailey can drag n drive a Divco milk truck fugly sure can make a pass down the strip. If unsure just go for a 1/8th mile pass.
Also if Tom Bailey can drag n drive a Divco milk truck fugly sure can make a pass down the strip. If unsure just go for a 1/8th mile pass.
Unbolt the wing for a pass.
Martin
Martin
Trying to keep the heat down.
Aluminum coating would be better.
Please submit your CC number, exp. date and 3 digit security code for processing.
I had a set of Jet-Hot coated ones in my V8 Astro Van, ran cool enough you could hold on to the header when it was running, not for long, but you could.
That's not normal unless you just started it? I wouldn't recommend touching them, every set I've worked with would burn the sh!t out of you if you bumped them.
Still better than no coating, and it looks good for a while.
Heat retention is better with the wrap, but then it accelerates corrosion.
SS is awesome, no corrosion, and a lower heat transfer coefficient than mild steel, but then it's a lot of $$$.
Everything is a tradeoff.
These are SS, so hopefully I will outlast the corrosion down the road. It will be somebody else's problem some day.
Nice! Painted or coated stainless?
Does that AL body transfer engine heat to the cab a lot? I see the extra effort...
Bare SS. Heat transfer was miserable until last year on the tour. Always had hot heat coming up from the floor. I lined the entire cab floor inside and out with heat shield. Zero effect. Last year, my son was driving one day, so i got out of my seat to feal around and see where the hot spots were. Seats are too high to reach while driving. I knelt on the floor and BAM, 200+ degree air blowing on my hands. The seal at the base of the dog house had a 1 inch gap. He pulled over at the first chance he had. I ran a piece of duct tap inside the bottom of the dog house. No more hot air. The remainder of the trip was done with the windows down and enjoyed.
It's the little things sometimes.
Engine is in for the last time, I hope.
It's the little things sometimes.
Engine is in for the last time, I hope.
Just called to harness/computer guy to check if I asked for remote coil packs. I did not. They laid out the harness this morning to build it. So 12" is being added to each side. I should have them Wednesday or Thursday.
Now I need to get my butt in gear and stop typing here.
Now I need to get my butt in gear and stop typing here.
