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RJFguitar's resto-mod - went offroad

way to much money for that stuff dam :doah::doah::doah:

go check out ls1tech.com hybrid/swap forum section . lots of good quality vendors in there . 1 i know does rework harnness for 250 if i recall. http://ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-hybrids-28/

and eagle mark here does pcm flashing .

you dont need headsers if on a budget . i did stock manifolds . check my 2wd build thread for pics and how to easy .

why engine crossmember ?

motor mount plates under 100 bucks to bolt to block and drop in .

fuel pump system = 87-91 tbi tank / sender minus pump / 96 c3500 350 vortec pump . pump clips and plugs in to 87-91 sender just like factory .

from what i have read cam swaps arnt bad at all on these . 1700 gets you what ? ? ? buy a whole motor for that .

someone is getting you for prices bad .

guys on ls1tech are doing junk yard parts turbo setups with single turbo and 550-650 hp easy . and still get fuel milage on the 5.3 motors.

also last i checked there is a few hp level 6.0 make sure you get the facts stright .

in 03 for my 5.3 @295hp and reg low power 6.0 was @335hp if i recall. yes the big 6.0 was another 20-30 hp .

I will look into someone else for the harness and programming.

I planned to fab my own crossmember, I was just posting the price on them.

I have to go with headers, one for a few extra ponies but probably mainly for that sound. I hate to just kill off that tinny, lopey classic sound completely, if I can help it.

I don't plan to go with their cam swap, but $1700 did include a new valve train, but yeah it's basically $800 in parts and almost a grand in labor, too much.

At the moment I am still planning to use their fuel system kit. I like that I can just bang it out and get it done with a kit. I don't like parts fishing much anymore. Time is money for me.

I'll check some things out.
 
SweetK30, just read through your thread over there at LS1.

What did you use for fuel lines?

If I'm reading correctly, if you have a truck 5.3 than you don't need the corvette regulator. Since the truck 5.3 has a regulator on the manifold. Just plumb inlet/outlet.

Looks like the harness is not that big of a deal. I think I can handle removing what is not needed from it.

I take it I'm going to need that flexplate spacer to adapt to the converter in my 700R4.
 
I just ordered a turn key LQ4 6.0L from Pacific Fab. Everything, engine, new harness, tuned computer, crossmember, motor mounts, inline pump fuel system, long tube headers, and pedal.

Anyone have any tips on what to do with the TV cable on the 700R4 with a drive by wire engine? Kevin from Pacific Fab is saying to run it into the cab and make a bracket to hold it on the throttle pedal. Anyone do this? Pics of your setup?
 
That's the way I have seen it done. I'm sure if you Google "700r4 with dbw" or something like that you should get some answers. Shouldn't be too tough but will probably be kinda tedious.
 
Pacific should have everything ready for me to pick up in about 2 weeks, so hopefully I'll be driving it in about 3 weeks. Right now I'm chasing down tires and wheels, the 36x14.50 STS tires are not going back on, too tall and skinny with the 16x10 rims that are on them. I plan to grab a set of 16.5x12 Welds off craigslist and buy a new set of 33x14.50 SSR's.
 
I painted the radiator support and firewall with rubberized undercoating and satin black paint.
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Ok, WTF is this?
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I need to get wires sorted through here, I believe most, if not all can come out of the K5 completely, as it should be just stuff for controlling the CCC carb/distributor and trans. Pulled the old original computer out too, obviously. I'm hoping the new LQ4 computer will be the same size and could go back up into that holder under the dash, and bring the new harness through the firewall, just like the current old harness.
20150103_113514_zpsa175d3af.jpg

20150103_113540_zps22bea8f3.jpg

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The traditional wiring like the wires that light up the fuse box, solenoid start, distributor power, oil pressure, electric choke, those wires are a seperate harness and are not pictured. What is pictured, is all the california specific CCC wiring/computer. As I said, I believe 95% of that can come out, but a few power wires might be handy to retain, along with if there is anything specific to controlling lockup on the 700R4. I'm off now to go google.:doah:
 
I forgot I had a 1985 Chevy C/K truck wiring diagram book for the entire truck. I just found it digging for an old LMC catalog.

WTF item is a "vac sensor" that appears to be unrelated directly to the control of lockup. The torque converter lockup hotwire coming out of the computer goes three different directions. 1. To a brake switch, to the TCC solenoid, and an unknown 3rd just yet.

IIRC, non CCC trucks without all this crap just have a vacuum switch and brake switch to control lockup. Unfortunately, the LS computer can not control lockup of a 700R4, I asked.
 
I just ordered a turn key LQ4 6.0L from Pacific Fab. Everything, engine, new harness, tuned computer, crossmember, motor mounts, inline pump fuel system, long tube headers, and pedal.

Anyone have any tips on what to do with the TV cable on the 700R4 with a drive by wire engine? Kevin from Pacific Fab is saying to run it into the cab and make a bracket to hold it on the throttle pedal. Anyone do this? Pics of your setup?


You have some great info here. If you don't mind, what did everything cost from pacific fab?
 
computer will not bolt in . might fit under dash with some light fab work .

but stock harness is wired driver front fender for computer and no real extra slack to go were you want it .

lots of guys rework the harness to fit that way but takes time .

my 85 c-10 build I am doing driverside batt tray and new ls computer oem gm bracket and cover to hold it like it would be in stock truck but in my older truck .
 
The computers are designed to be mounted in the engine bay, I wouldn't be afraid to put it there.
 
You have some great info here. If you don't mind, what did everything cost from pacific fab?
I don't think I should say, because I'm a local guy to PF and I think I got a little bit off regular price, but I can say it's over $4k.

I know I know, guys will say I could do it for cheaper, but the best price I could come up with on a 6.0L at a yard was $1500 with computer/harness. By the time I bought everything else to make it "turn key" I was only about $1000 less than PF's turn key setup. I'll give up a grand every day of the week and twice on Sunday to NOT spend a bunch of time chasing crap down, ordering parts online, ship the computer, wait for that to come back, etc.

It's a 1hr drive for me, load EVERYTHING up, come home, install, DRIVE!!!!!! Can't wait!

Plus, PF came up with a set of Tilden Motorsports long tube headers for me that are designed for the 73-87 chassis, for cheaper than what I could find from Summit, S&P, etc.
 
Got it, looks like I'll mount it under hood on the drivers side then.

I got the wiring harness completely removed yesterday for the CCC garbage. Glad to see that crap go, along with the vapor canister. Those two things alone cleaned up the engine bay a bunch.
 
IMG_1504.jpg
This is where I mounted my computer. The bracket is from an '07 suburban. tried to mount it on the driver side battery tray, but it would not fit. So I flipped it and bolted it to the inner fender well.

IMG_1504.jpg
 
New engine or used? Sounds like the way to go.
Used, should have around 80K on it. I will find out when I pick it up, Kevin didn't have a specific engine in mind when I placed the order, just that I would get something '04 and newer under 100K.
 

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