Hmm. Can't say I'm a big fan of cutting off the plug of my brand new harness. I could get this sensor and just install it on the other side and run one wire to it, from my factory gauge.This is the three wire one Max was talking about.
CK5
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RJFguitar's resto-mod - went offroad
- Thread starter rjfguitar
- Start date
y5mgisi
1 ton status
Should work.
Either way will work. I modified a factory harness so it was easy to add that while I was there
I knew I was getting close on starting my 6L, so I said screw it and took the day off today. I'm sure I'll regret that later, but enough with that.
Finished the fuel system, torqued the header bolts, poured 5 gallons of fresh gas in the tank, finished the radiator hoses, put 3 gallons of water in, and fitted my tranny dipstick.
I changed the bends just a bit on the trans dipstick, cut the tab off, and rewelded it on closer to the top and bolted it to the engine dipstick bracket. I like it, engine and trans dips are right next to one another.
Here is the first start up. Apparently these engines won't run at all continually without the mass air sensor.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1e3JL6p_kOs&feature=youtu.be
And here it is running finally. Sounds pretty good to me, exhaust is not connected yet. I'm loving that throttle response.
I have a few things more to tidey up under the hood, including getting the water temp and oil pressure gauges hooked up.
Finished the fuel system, torqued the header bolts, poured 5 gallons of fresh gas in the tank, finished the radiator hoses, put 3 gallons of water in, and fitted my tranny dipstick.
I changed the bends just a bit on the trans dipstick, cut the tab off, and rewelded it on closer to the top and bolted it to the engine dipstick bracket. I like it, engine and trans dips are right next to one another.
Here is the first start up. Apparently these engines won't run at all continually without the mass air sensor.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1e3JL6p_kOs&feature=youtu.be
And here it is running finally. Sounds pretty good to me, exhaust is not connected yet. I'm loving that throttle response.
I have a few things more to tidey up under the hood, including getting the water temp and oil pressure gauges hooked up.
Last edited by a moderator:
y5mgisi
1 ton status
Sweet dude! Glad you at least got to hear it run finally! The new starter took care of your issue there?
y5mgisi
1 ton status
Just another quick note, i had a hell of a time getting my cooling system to "burp". So check it several several times.
Haha....well haven't changed the starter yet. Seems to almost be getting better or something.
Started it like 6 times today actually and it only malfunctioned once. I poured 1.5 gallons into the water neck before I put the top hose on. I didn't let it run long enough for the thermostat to open, mainly because I don't have a coolant gauge yet. The top hose never felt warm. Once I get my gauges all done, an intake on it, throttle cable. I will let it run much longer.
Regardless, I still don't have any tires and wheels yet.
It's still sitting on blocks at the moment, South Central LA style.
Right on bro! bro good to hear it running.
"Burp"?
get the air pocket out..... that's why it's good to give some revs here and there, help circ the water...
boat motor systems are notorious for air pockets.. they actually have coolant filling tools designed to help against this..
boat motor systems are notorious for air pockets.. they actually have coolant filling tools designed to help against this..
B series Cummins can be bad about getting air locked too. Those are easy though, you just take the water neck off, pull the thermostat, and pour into the block until it's full.
Cool, good to see it making go fast noises already! 
Damn, that sounds bad.
I want a 6.0 so bad......
I want a 6.0 so bad......
So after looking up info on how the thermostat works on an LS style engine, I discovered there are steam lines on these engines.
I never even noticed the barb under the throttle body. I am going to just "T" it into the line going to the surge tank.
I never even noticed the barb under the throttle body. I am going to just "T" it into the line going to the surge tank.
y5mgisi
1 ton status
Are you using the ls surge tank or the one original to the Blazer? Cause it is under pressure and must be t-ed into a pressure area. Most folks t into the upper radiator hose. Me and many others just drilled and tapped the water pump and ran it straight to there.
Hmm. I just T'd it into the surge tank and I'm using the stock blazer tank.
I think I'll just go with this throttle cable.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/lok-tc-1000ls1u
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/lok-tc-1000ls1u
y5mgisi
1 ton status
Should work? I'll be curious to see your review of it!
My factory blazer radiator had internal threads in the heater hose port. Just screwed a npt fitting in and called it good. No probs [emoji6]
Here is where I mounted the oil sending unit for the factory gauge
Here is where I hooked in for the hose for the steam port to the radiator. Had the heater hose fitting change out to a threaded bong to screw in the hose fitting.
Drilled and tapped the water pump for the coolant temp sending unit for the factory gauge.
Here is where I mounted the computer. I used the factory 07 computer mount that hang under the battery tray on the 07. Just flipped it over and bolted it to the inner wheelwell.
Here is where I hooked in for the hose for the steam port to the radiator. Had the heater hose fitting change out to a threaded bong to screw in the hose fitting.
Drilled and tapped the water pump for the coolant temp sending unit for the factory gauge.
Here is where I mounted the computer. I used the factory 07 computer mount that hang under the battery tray on the 07. Just flipped it over and bolted it to the inner wheelwell.
some guys also do a drill/tap on the waterpump for the coolent hose vent line hook up . this keeps the extra hose short and away from the radiator .
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