What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Rocksliders

ryoken said:
easy ones first... no, i didn't cut the doors, the sliders run right underneath them....

the green is zinc chromate.... the best raw metal, self-etching primer you can run other than the 2 part version of the same....


I'll have to hunt ya down some underside pics tonight, or I'll snap some.... I'm on lunch right now... to be fair, and forewarned, my setup is FAR FAR from stock.. the sliders are hard mounted to my custom cab support system and floor, so it's a far cry different than putting these in a stock app...
Click to expand...


Actually you are allset I have been looking at your Gallery 2 and I see you have done stuff way beyond where I am headed. But I did get som ideas. So you dont have to look up any pics I should be all set. So that zinc chromate, is there a brand name and where do i get some? I am running 2 x4 on my k5 and I am trying to run mine at the same hieght as you have yours so i dont have to cut the doors. I am trying to figure out if I need to weld the 2 x 4 to the existing backing plate or do I cut the existing backing plate and fabricate my own attachment point to the floor. Theres about a 1" difference from the top of the 2 x4 to the bottom of the floor, so I was thinking of welding 1" square stock to the top of the 2 x 4 and then i can weld that to the floor. Do you get what I am thinking? Is there a better way or any thoughts from you guys what i might be able to do? I was thinking of adding some more floor supports as well. Thank u very much for your help!
 
im looking for a bit of advise on this subject too.
i was thinking about using 2"x8" so it sticks out a little and also sticks in enough to weld my cage straight to it. then running supports to the body and run somemore from the middle of those supports to the frame w/bushings. so the cage is tied to the frame.
i really want the cage tied to the frame, but also need to strengthen the tub up, so when i cut the top off the body isnt so sloppy.
and advise would be appreciated, as i want to get going on this shortly.
 
kickstand said:
So that zinc chromate, is there a brand name and where do i get some?


I am running 2 x4 on my k5 and I am trying to run mine at the same hieght as you have yours so i dont have to cut the doors. I am trying to figure out if I need to weld the 2 x 4 to the existing backing plate or do I cut the existing backing plate and fabricate my own attachment point to the floor. Theres about a 1" difference from the top of the 2 x4 to the bottom of the floor, so I was thinking of welding 1" square stock to the top of the 2 x 4 and then i can weld that to the floor. Do you get what I am thinking? Is there a better way or any thoughts from you guys what i might be able to do? I was thinking of adding some more floor supports as well. Thank u very much for your help!
Click to expand...


Moeller rattle cans have been what i've been getting lately...


http://www.google.com/products?q=mo...esult_group&ct=title&resnum=3&ved=0CDAQrQQwAg

my sliders sit about 1/2" out from the door sheetmetal... it's hard for me to say where the inner side sits in relation to a stock inner rocker panel.... as mine was cut out prior when i hacked out the whole floor for the cab supports.... iirc, the 2 x 4 would end approximately where the inner rocker wall is...

most of the attachment is supported at the pillars.... plus your welding it all the way down the lower door sill lip... but that may measure out nice to where you could pop some holes in the inner rocker and plugweld mount the slider to the inner rocker too... you can kinda see in this shot where the slider is in relation to the door lip...

sill008.jpg




if you want to retain as much stock sheetmetal as possible, i would go at it with a cutoff wheel... just keep cutting and fitting... also i'm pretty sure Shawn (supersize75) did this to colbys truck in stock form, maybe they'll chime in...
 
1BEATK5 said:
im looking for a bit of advise on this subject too.
i was thinking about using 2"x8" so it sticks out a little and also sticks in enough to weld my cage straight to it. then running supports to the body and run somemore from the middle of those supports to the frame w/bushings. so the cage is tied to the frame.
i really want the cage tied to the frame, but also need to strengthen the tub up, so when i cut the top off the body isnt so sloppy.
and advise would be appreciated, as i want to get going on this shortly.
Click to expand...


8" would be huge...... i know on mine with a 1/2" reveal, that would get me into the floor enough to mount cage tubes to it... but i opted for a flange setup..... you'd need the cage tubes tight to the pillar/door...
 
We just did this same application on a ramcharger about a month ago. It really works well. We cut out the lower rocker, added in the box tube and welded the entire outer sheet metal to the new slider. We tied it into the body mounts and the cage. Its very stout.
 
Last edited:
what size?


My sliders are hard mounted to the underside of the new 2 x 4 cab supports.... I'm pretty certain you could drop it on a boulder and it'll chuckle...

btw, welcome to our show.......
 
We used 3x5 .188 wall for the main (cause thats what worked best for that application) and 1 3/4" .120 wall DOM outer rails. Thanks for the welcome.
 
Mine are tied into my body only and I've dropped it hard on some rocks and it didn't bend any sheet metal. I used 2x4x.250 tube.
 
ryoken said:
8" would be huge...... i know on mine with a 1/2" reveal, that would get me into the floor enough to mount cage tubes to it... but i opted for a flange setup..... you'd need the cage tubes tight to the pillar/door...
Click to expand...


i was probably going to have them flush with the body, and add a tube that comes out from the body. oregon is tree country. not rocks. so i dont need the bottom protection but definitely need some protection for the doors and the rear quarters. that way they would be in far enough to weld the cage to. the "b" pillar is about 5" thick, so it will be tight. even with 1-3/4" tubing
i was originally thinking 10" but that seems overkill, and they still might not stick out as far as i need/want them to.
 
This is what I have, I've slammed them up against trees and rocks and the body hasn't buckled one bit. These are mounted to the body and not the frame.

36780_404898925302_640250302_4915453_3510062_n.jpg
 
Yeah, it makes for a great non-slip step and doesn't hinder from the intended purpose of the sliders.
 
This reminds me, I need to go get 30 more feet of poo pipe and make some
 
How do you go about mounting rock sliders to the body of a pickup? Pics would be helpful. Thanks
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom