CK5
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Roll Cage Discussion
- Thread starter nvrenuf
- Start date
All the dead pics suck.
Lots of good info though
Lots of good info though
Yea and photofucket has screwed how to documentation up for the entire community in some respects.. I’m waiting for someone to sue them or something.
Pretty proud of my cage. If I knew then what I know now though.
I'd weld it a whole lot better. I'd prefer to have the top cut off to really get in there good.
I dropped it through the floor and welded it that way. It is welded to my sliders to the frame. I wouldn't butt the a and b pillar straight to it but I'd rather angle them in straight to the frame somehow.
I'd also shoot some bars to the engine bay because my frame is buckled now at the shackles up front.
Dash bar is my favorite.
Getting in is not a big deal but I'm just under 6" 180lb. Not a big deal but foot entry would be better and more forward.
10/10 would keep the bottom floor bars in everything from now on. Keeps my first aid kit in and our feet in.
Pro tip: **** up the first bend and it's all gravy from there on.
I guess I can add a couple pics of mine again since PB is stupid and ruined this (my original post is on the first page). Sorry, these are not that detailed as these are the only pics I have on my phone right now, but I think you can get the picture.
As a description again, I used 2" .120 wall HREW for the entire cage, and some of my smaller braces I used 1" .120 wall HREW. It connects to the frame at 6 spots (B pillar and A pillar connect to my slider tubes which go to the frame, and rear cage connects to the bumper bracings which are welded to the frame too). I also have 2 more connecting points to the rear wheel well tubs just because, but those spots don't go to the frame. If anyone wants me to take pics of more details portions, I can and post it up to this thread
As a description again, I used 2" .120 wall HREW for the entire cage, and some of my smaller braces I used 1" .120 wall HREW. It connects to the frame at 6 spots (B pillar and A pillar connect to my slider tubes which go to the frame, and rear cage connects to the bumper bracings which are welded to the frame too). I also have 2 more connecting points to the rear wheel well tubs just because, but those spots don't go to the frame. If anyone wants me to take pics of more details portions, I can and post it up to this thread
Yeah, I went back and forth on doing some triangulation within the halo (over the driver and passenger head). But since I have a cab over the head as well, I didn't feel like it was that necessary (plus, would be hard to keep good headroom with the 2" tube I used). If I had a full-vert, I for sure would have done the triangulation, but in that case, you can make the whole cage that much higher up away from the driver/passenger head so it wouldn't really matter.
At least that is the way I looked at it
What are the general rules for using tube couplers? Just add extra bracing near the joint? Use them only in certain areas? Just best not to use them at all?
I hear ya, I also noticed your seats sit up pretty high on those stock bases. I'll have to see how I fit with new seats in the cab.
I lowered my seats.
Yeah, my kids ride back there a lot (ages 6, 5, and 2). It's not horrible. If I have the top off, I just lift them up in from the side of the truck. But they are small enough now I can still recline the seats forward and they can snake in there under the tube behind the front seats. It's obviously not as nice as having no tube there, so it's just something I have to deal with. But not a deal breaker either.
For the downbar in the back, I have a straight piece of tube that connects my B pillar to the rear part of the C pillar. That down bar connects to that. see the pic below that I found on my phone...you can kinda see it in that pic. You can also kinda see where I connected to my wheel well tubs as well
I will say, after I installed my seats like I did, I feel like I sit maybe a tad bit higher than the stock seats, but not much. It looks taller because the backs of those aftermarket seats are so much taller than a factory seat.
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Does anyone have pictures of how they braced the A pillar to the frame with the A pillars through the dash. My tubes land pretty much right on top of the body rib. My floor plate has plenty of area on both sides of the rib, but I am unsure the best way to brace it to the frame underneath. I've considered maybe removing the stock body rib all together and building something new, but that's a snowball so looking for ideas! My sliders will be integrated into the rockers and tied in with the A and B pillar as well.
Dang it... ok I’m caging mine now. I’m a HREW guy though. I know DOM is by far a better choice but my theory is as long as the design and welds are good it will be better than nothing at all. I’ve seen HREW cages do great in rollovers but at the same time they had a good design with a ton of triangulation. But anyway... just because that’s what I think doesn’t mean it’s right and if I was building a buggy or something I’d pony up for the DOM.
But as it was said also... if mine goes over once that’s all it will ever do. And if you can sacrifice the amount of DOM material in a full or half cab because of added protection provided by the body itself then how much is truly being sacrificed by using HREW inside the cab? Not trying to argue or anything because I do agree completely. I’m just saying that I don’t know that it would really be worth paying over twice as much for something that I honestly wouldn’t use again after a roll whether it was HREW, DOM, Chromoly, or poop pipe.
But anyway... I didn’t mean to stir up the DOM vs HREW debate as I believe there are sooooo many circumstances that play into it. This is just my experience with it and I’m definitely not opposed to the use of higher quality materials by any means.
I opted for DOM, because when mines goes over, I will not be going slow. And I expect it to you over and over and maybe over again.
But I came from a different world than rock crawling.
But I came from a different world than rock crawling.
I've actually been contemplating why you can't use DOM for all bent sections and HREW for the straight triangulation piece's. I'm getting ready to order some more material for my soon to be cage build and that idea came to mind
Yeah exactly!
