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Roll Cage Discussion

I've actually been contemplating why you can't use DOM for all bent sections and HREW for the straight triangulation piece's. I'm getting ready to order some more material for my soon to be cage build and that idea came to mind
Maybe someone can add to my thoughts here but I’d say it should be fine for “non impact” areas? What I see with it is HREW crushes easier which weakens it and then it kinks or bends so if it’s not in an area that will get crushed then you most likely won’t be bending it
 
My thoughts. Design is more important than materials, I've seen a DOM cage get pushed over 5 inches due to a poor design.

If go fast of any kind is in your future DOM. But a mostly DOM cage with non impact areas in HREW also good here.

Any cage of good design is better than no cage. A cage of poor design can hurt you.

Take for instance @Kay86K5 cage. It's 2"HREW. 2" HRRW is good, in most situations being comparable to 1.75" DOM.

No matter what in a full interior truck working off a stock frame a cage is a series of compromises. The key is to add strength where those compromises are.

In reality in these heavy trucks we should all be using 2" DOM.
 
What are the general rules for using tube couplers? Just add extra bracing near the joint? Use them only in certain areas? Just best not to use them at all?

These are solid, fit well https://www.tmrcustoms.com/roll-cage-chassis/accessories/roll-cage-safety-slug Kinda pricey...But cages shouldn't be cheap. Or you can use a piece of 1.5" od, DOM tubing slid in there ( Assuming your using 1-3/4" 120 DOM ) maybe 6" or 8" long.
Ether one I'd rosette weld too.
I try not to need a coupler if at all possible and only use them on short runs of tube.
 
Dash bracing (again)...

The plan is to run a horizontal tube from the A pillar leg to the plates on the firewall. I also plan to weld some plates between the A pillars and windshield posts (racecar style).

I bought some of these plates to use on the lower tube brace because there's not a lot of useable open space for a bigger plate. Do y'all see any issues with a plate this small. Not sure why but I'm worried they'll act like a can opener.

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Dash bracing (again)...

The plan is to run a horizontal tube from the A pillar leg to the plates on the firewall. I also plan to weld some plates between the A pillars and windshield posts (racecar style).

I bought some of these plates to use on the lower tube brace because there's not a lot of useable open space for a bigger plate. Do y'all see any issues with a plate this small. Not sure why but I'm worried they'll act like a can opener.

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Got some pics Johnny?
 
If the frame, cage and body move separately, they will can opener the firewall. But if everything is rigid, it would take a long time.
 
Well, I will be doing cage frame ties with bushings later but it may be a month or 2. Right now it'll just be a basic cage bolted to the body. I'm trying to get it ready "enough" for a light shakedown run the first of next month and I need to tie the firewall up so it doesn't move (full top conversion).
 
To add more to this thread, the pics below are the start of a 4 seat rock buggy my brother and I are building together. We have the frame rails and main cage pretty much done, now just need to do the rear and front portions of the chassis before final welding. After everything I've said in previous posts, that were more directed to my K5, which is a trail rig that never really gets over 15 mph, haha, this build is very different.

The drivetrain will be a turbo'd 8.1, TH400, Titan205, front and rear steering rockweels, and ~50" tires. Our plan is to compete in events like Havoc and Backdoor Challenge at KOH eventually once its ready to go. And for sure this one will see many, many rollovers and some higher speeds. So for this build, we didn't want to cut corners or use less strong materials like both of us did on our trial wheelers that never see high speed stuff. This is built out of 1.75" DOM throughout, also has a double B pillar, with as much triangulation as we possibly could think of, and so far have done everything we can to have no dead nodes, and braced as much as possible.

My point with all of this is sometimes you have to look at the intended purpose of your build, and also your budget, and do the very best you can to build something that will be safe for your intended use of the vehicle.

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I need to start a build thread, but the Jimmy's been with me so long now it would take a while. Just got it home from a friends garage....

All 1.75" .120" wall DOM

Harnesses are click 6's from Polaris. Only emergency locking retractors I could find, I think I'm gonna like them. Going to use stock locations for seats and belt attachment for the other 4 points of the harnesses

Pic of a-pillar tie in, also welded to body mount

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So to design a cage, where to start? Just make some hoops and triangulate everything?
 
So to design a cage, where to start? Just make some hoops and triangulate everything?

Intended use and future use ideas first. I think that is so important and so overlooked its crazy, but its the nature of the beast. And its also why you can buy some sweet in-progress projects for dirt cheap. Even with all that you end up currently like myself and cutting your truck in half years down the road, but its easier because you kind of had a plan from the beginning.

From there I think the best thing is to start with your frame tie-ins. Find where you want to land first then and work your way up into the cab problems. That's always been my way. Its an entire series of compromises but inside that cloud can come some compromises which end up being win-wins.

With the square bodies you will find your frame hit and then move into the cab and have to work yourself outward with an outrigger. Unless race-car. You can do it cleanly and relatively strong if you plan your hoops out correctly. Bottom line is a tube in shear is less than a tube in compression or tension.

I've been drinking so that was all just stream of consciousness^
 
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