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Rumble Bee. (Getting cannibalized for the greater good)

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Yep it will run just fine. I grenanded a gov lock once and sent pieces through the diff cover. I noticed cuz it ran out of oil and got loud on the highway. I tack welded the hole shut in the cover and cleaned all the chunks out of the diff housing and kept driving it for several more yrs. It was just more of an open diff after that.
 
I sand blasted the cover last night too. And yeah it had a few spots that were more than half way through the metal. I was going to weld/ grind to fix them. Plus add a drain plug. But decided to paint and throw it back on, then this spring or summer I'll get a nice heavy duty one like a razor back or something
 
Well I got it back together, but I have a question that I can't find in the 14 bolt Bible on pirate, or on YouTube.

How do I set the preload on the carrier bearings?
Do I just tighten both sides until side to side motion goes away? Or a 1/4 turn past that on both sides..? Etc.

I understand the process of setting backlash after that. I'm just not sure how tight to make the carrier bearings.

emp_4.jpg
 
See I would have figured that being too tight would just destroy em... But I guess they were tight enough that I had to use a punch and hammer to loosen them during disassembly.

Ok. Cool. I have to try and find a dial indicator here at work today. If I can, I should have it back together and drivable tonight. I think backlash is good right now. But I need to check it anyway. Has just enough play to hear/feel it click when I go back and forth. I'm guessing .006". But that's full on guess.

Thanks Eric
 
Yeah like Eric said... if you can overtighten them you will be a hero in many peoples eyes! Lol

But really if you think of the pressure exerted on them just from ring and pinion deflection you can’t put that much pressure on them with the spanner nuts. These are just my thoughts and what I was taught about ford 9” diffs. I would think a 14 bolt would be the same story.
 
Oh and FWIW I know there are some nay sayers and I understand but I’ve set plenty of gear sets up without a dial indicator and never had any issues. IMHO it’s no different than wheel bearing preload... we do that by feel and if we screw it up it could kill us. Lol
 
I was thinking of that. But I have free to use tools, so figure 'why not' lol. Really the way it feels I think it's more than fine for a truck that'll see maybe 1000 miles a year.
 
Got off work last night, got to the house, just getting ready to head to the shop, and family stops by with their kids.... >.<. So nothing got done.

Told the wife I'm going straight to the shop from work tonight lol. And I decided to take the front diff cover off and have a look after the rear is done. I figure it'd be nice to at least know what's going on in there. And I'm sure the lube change can't hurt lol. So far I haven't really looked at the front end at all.
TREs, Ujoints, etc. I'll get some of that done tonight too.
 
Pumpkins back together. Set at .008. which is what you want new gears at.... not used IIRC. I think used we're supposed to be like .020. but it's done now lol. And the cover looks pretty decent under there...

Didn't get chit else done though. Wife went with me to help, and Kaz was at a sitter. So we didn't have as much time.

IMG_20180114_213655456_LL.jpg
 
New is tighter and used is more backlash. Can’t remember for sure but I think .010 is within spec on a used set. I’ll look.
 
.006-.010 on a new set is within spec for a 14 bolt. I have a book somewhere with the numbers for used gears sets.
 
The Bible on pirate just says .005-.008. no spec on used versus new.... I'm actually thinking that's for bearings, not gears.
 
I just realized that I didn't run the marking compound and check the pattern :doah:. Oh well, I'm not taking it apart now
 
shady said:
I just realized that I didn't run the marking compound and check the pattern :doah:. Oh well, I'm not taking it apart now
Click to expand...


You put in all the orginal shims? Just new bearings right? If so it will likely be fine. Your ring gear is pretty beat up it would have been hard to read a pattern on it anyway
 
Yeah original shim. There was only one. I'm currently working an angle to maybe trade some stuff for a k30 flatbed dually... If I get it it has a th400/205 combo and 4.56 gears that'll go nicely in the Bee. Plus a spare 454 :)

Not sure if it'll work out, but I'm hoping
 
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