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Running 1/2 Ton calipers on 14 Bolt disc bake swap?

handloader90

handloader90

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I know that most of your braking comes from the front axle or at least it's supposed to, something like 70% of the braking force is supposed to come from the front axle and the other 30% from the rear axle.

ORD states that you can use a 3/4 ton rotor with a 1/2 ton caliper (which I'm not questioning).

I'm getting ready to do the swap and would like to know if this is the route to go, it'll save me money cause I have 1/2 ton calipers sitting around and would rather use them than go and buy new 3/4 ton ones if it's the better route to go.

Front axle is a Chevy Dana 60 which I plan on using 3/4 ton rotors/calipers/pads on using the TMR Customs brackets: http://www.tmrcustoms.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=23&products_id=1622

With 3/4 ton calipers up front and 1/2 ton calipers in the rear I should be on the right path huh?
 
Afaik, there's virtually no difference between 1/2 and 3/4 ton calipers. The only differences I've noticed are in the casting (minor changes) and brake hose bolt size (years, metric vs std).
 
Some of the 3/4 ton calipers used slightly larger pistons, but that is it...externally, apparently the castings are the same.
 
Thanks for the replies fellas, you just saved me some money :woot:
 
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I have 1/2-ton calipers at all 4 corners, so I'm not saying it can't be done. The only reason not to do it, is they are too big. If you can get smaller pistons, it only helps decrease the pedal travel and the bias. A front brake caliper uses tons more fluid than a wheel cylinder, so the brake pedal goes almost twice as far, all else being equal.
 
Somewhere on here is the Atron combo valve gutting writeup. you can gut that thing for free, or just get one of the new brass ones out there that's already gutted.
 
nvrenuf said:
Afaik, there's virtually no difference between 1/2 and 3/4 ton calipers. The only differences I've noticed are in the casting (minor changes) and brake hose bolt size (years, metric vs std).
Click to expand...

They both take the same banjo fitting correct? It's just the banjo bolt that has either standard or metric thread right?
 
JoshHefnerX said:
Somewhere on here is the Atron combo valve gutting writeup. you can gut that thing for free, or just get one of the new brass ones out there that's already gutted.
Click to expand...

I saw it, does that let me get away without running a different combo/prop valve?

What the hell happened to all the old Review/ Tech. articles? Seems like a lot was lost when they switched up to the new style website...
 
Blue85 said:
I have 1/2-ton calipers at all 4 corners, so I'm not saying it can't be done. The only reason not to do it, is they are too big. If you can get smaller pistons, it only helps decrease the pedal travel and the bias. A front brake caliper uses tons more fluid than a wheel cylinder, so the brake pedal goes almost twice as far, all else being equal.
Click to expand...

I plan on running 1/2 ton calipers in the rear and 3/4 ton up front, same 3/4 ton rotors front and rear.

With the 1/2 ton calipers having smaller pistons than the 3/4 ton calipers I should have more braking force up front and less in the rear, I would hope so anyway, I'm guessing from there that an adjustable valve on the rear brake line should let me fine tune them if I have too much in the rear?
 
handloader90 said:
I saw it, does that let me get away without running a different combo/prop valve?

What the hell happened to all the old Review/ Tech. articles? Seems like a lot was lost when they switched up to the new style website...
Click to expand...

Yes
No idea, can't find stuff as easy now...
 
Yeah, a prop valve can bring the front/rear balance in line, but that's just adjusting pressure, not volume. You still have to add the same amount of fluid to all the calipers to get the pads into the rotors. So shrinking the rear piston size to achieve the right bias is better than using a prop valve. Not saying it won't work, just saying that as total caliper volume increases, the MC valve has to increase to keep pedal travel in check. The bigger the MC bore, the harder the pedal effort. Hydraulics 101 stuff. It's possible 3/4 fronts and 1/2 ton rears are pretty close to the right bias already. You almost have to be a little big in the back because you can decrease that pressure, but not increase it.
 
Hoss7979 said:
I've seen another guy use those 3/4 brackets and he seams to like that setup, the 60's are kinda a pain brake wise.....
Click to expand...

I really wanna get rid of that dust shield or whatever it's called and that huge ass caliper bracket, in the beginning the plan was to run 3/4 ton everything on both axles so all brake lines, fittings etc. were 100% interchangeable but since I've been doing a little research and getting feedback from my CK5 brethren it seems like 1/2 calipers are the way to go in the rear.
 
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