Running 1/2 Ton calipers on 14 Bolt disc bake swap?

[handloader90]

Yeah, a prop valve can bring the front/rear balance in line, but that's just adjusting pressure, not volume. You still have to add the same amount of fluid to all the calipers to get the pads into the rotors. So shrinking the rear piston size to achieve the right bias is better than using a prop valve. Not saying it won't work, just saying that as total caliper volume increases, the MC valve has to increase to keep pedal travel in check. The bigger the MC bore, the harder the pedal effort. Hydraulics 101 stuff. It's possible 3/4 fronts and 1/2 ton rears are pretty close to the right bias already. You almost have to be a little big in the back because you can decrease that pressure, but not increase it.

I was planning on upgrading to a 3/4 ton MC and brake booster at some point if this is what you're referring to?

 

[82355]

I've set up a few disc brake swaps. I use the largest 3/4 (or 1 ton) calipers on the front, and the smallest 1/2 ton caliper on the rear. I have not changed master cylinders or proportioning valves. They work just fine. I feel a lot of people overthink the whole thing.

Martin

 

[handloader90]

I did for years .

1ton master / hydroboost unit. 60 front with stock calipers.

rear was 1/2 ton calipers .

removed stock prop valve and tee fitting the front. then adjustable wildwood valve rear .

now you can buy this for best of both worlds. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wil-260-11179/overview/

What does that electric hookup on there do?

 

[82355]

Plus I wanna be able to run a 15" wheel without grinding my calipers down.

Unless you run wheels with stupid offset, you are going to have to grind calipers.

Martin

 

[dyeager535]

Runs brake lights.

Unfortunately I've yet to see any that run the dash light indicating a failure.

 

[handloader90]

I've set up a few disc brake swaps. I use the largest 3/4 (or 1 ton) calipers on the front, and the smallest 1/2 ton caliper on the rear. I have not changed master cylinders or proportioning valves. They work just fine. I feel a lot of people overthink the whole thing.

Martin

I'm gonna do some more research on 3/4 ton calipers. I'velooked over the Billa Vista articles over on pirate and he goes pretty into detail on different calipers.

I just want a simple system that works like it's supposed to.

I know a lot of guys say that keeping the drums is easier but I already tossed all my drum stuff minus the drums (gonna make a bench grinder stand out of one and maybe a drill press stand out of the other ).

 

[82355]

Why not run the 1 ton calipers. They are better. Much better.

Martin

 

[handloader90]

Runs brake lights.

Unfortunately I've yet to see any that run the dash light indicating a failure.

So it replaces that switch that's under the brake pedal?

 

[handloader90]

Why not run the 1 ton calipers. They are better. Much better.

Martin

I guess mainly to get rid of all the old heavy 1 ton brake stuff on my front axle, sell it, make some coin and run some lighter stuff up front that I won't have to grind on to fit my 15" wheels. Cuts down on replacement parts price in the future a little bit too.

 

[handloader90]

Here's some pics from earlier today since everyone likes pics lol, gotta put the pinion guard on still, need to get rotors, pads and new studs too.

 

[82355]

I guess mainly to get rid of all the old heavy 1 ton brake stuff on my front axle, sell it, make some coin and run some lighter stuff up front that I won't have to grind on to fit my 15" wheels. Cuts down on replacement parts price in the future a little bit too.

You are going to have to grind with either setup. It is just substanially more grinding on the 1 ton setup. Why are you against grinding?

I imagine it will cost you more to replace the parts you already have than you will make selling said parts.

Why are you concerned about the weight?

Martin

 

[82355]

need to get rotors, pads and new studs too.

You can reuse your factory studs.

Martin

 

[dyeager535]

So it replaces that switch that's under the brake pedal?

I guess it would. Probably made for applications that don't have the switch at the brake pedal already.

 

[handloader90]

You are going to have to grind with either setup. It is just substanially more grinding on the 1 ton setup. Why are you against grinding?

I imagine it will cost you more to replace the parts you already have than you will make selling said parts.

Why are you concerned about the weight?

Martin

I'm not really against grinding, Lord knows I've cut enough sheet metal lol, I would just prefer not too... if it comes down to it I'll do what I have to do.

It probably will cost more on the initial gathering of parts and honestly I'd probably hold onto the 1 ton stuff just in case I needed it at a later date.

Not really too concerned about weight either, the Dana 60 vs the 10 bolt that's under there now is a hugeweight difference but if I can dropa few pounds here and there it may help.

In all honesty I guess I just wanna do something different, I'm gonna tear the axle down anyway, might as well throw some different stuff on and see how it works.

 

[handloader90]

You can reuse your factory studs.

Martin

I kinda mushroomed the threaded parts on my studs getting them out and there are some Dorman studs that have a better knurl on them when attaching a rotor to the hub vs. the drum.

I'm looking at Dorman P/N's: 610-194 and 610-301.

 

[handloader90]

I guess it would. Probably made for applications that don't have the switch at the brake pedal already.

Cool beans, mine has the switch under the pedal or behind it I guess.

I wonder how the Wilwood contraption sends the signal, pressure or some kind of ball that makes metal to metal contact once the brakes are depressed and the pressure/fluid moves the ball?

 

[82355]

I'm not really against grinding, Lord knows I've cut enough sheet metal lol, I would just prefer not too... if it comes down to it I'll do what I have to do.

It probably will cost more on the initial gathering of parts and honestly I'd probably hold onto the 1 ton stuff just in case I needed it at a later date.

Not really too concerned about weight either, the Dana 60 vs the 10 bolt that's under there now is a hugeweight difference but if I can dropa few pounds here and there it may help.

In all honesty I guess I just wanna do something different, I'm gonna tear the axle down anyway, might as well throw some different stuff on and see how it works.

So you want to down grade brakes just to be different?

Martin

 

[dyeager535]

I wonder how the Wilwood contraption sends the signal, pressure or some kind of ball that makes metal to metal contact once the brakes are depressed and the pressure/fluid moves the ball?

I'm sure it's just a pressure switch. Electrical switch is far superior IMO, nothing to leak. But for an app that needs brake lights, and doesn't have an easily used electrical switch, it would work.

 

[handloader90]

So you want to down grade brakes just to be different?

Martin

As mentioned before I want to get rid of the rotor shield or whatever it's called and the huge caliper bracket, put a new smaller and lightweight caliper bracket on and save myself a few bucks when it comes time to replace brake stuff + I think I have a chance at pulling off 15" wheels without grinding the calipers.

The axle is getting torn down and gone through before I bolt it up so I plan on changing a few things around and seeing how it works out.

In other words yes.

 

[82355]

The dust shield is unnecessary. You can discard it.

Unless you run wheels with stupid offset, you have to grind for 15" wheels with 3/4 ton calipers and rotors.

Martin