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Ryoken's 89 Crew Cab Tubebed build... aka Mutt....

yup, all good.. it'll be drivable in a week or 2.. and i don't suspect the minor fab and pimping to be more than 3 weekends or so...


without optimism, it's careening off the tracks at mach 3...
 
Well, there’s been a propensity for that to occur in the Lab from time to time...
 
oh, and I have a thing for the word "propensity"... :woot: monday props for that one.... :bow: :bow: :haha:
 
So ..... my .02 Besides your OCD :D What would be the reason to take all the stock wiring out ? I am going to guess that it works. The 5.9 needs one wire or so to turn on and off. Pretty easy to make work with what is there or add something to make it work.

Just seems to me that you keep adding things to do to the build, large involved changes that are going to take forever to do. For not to much of a benefit unless the under hood wires and under dash wires are a complete rats nest, other then that no real benefit.

It is your build...... but you could have the 5.9 in and running in a week and it would work awesome.
 
be nice to me..... :D



yeah, i can't copy that... ;) you seem to be pretty negative towards thing's I've been doing lately... sure, i can get it in, in a week, with shitty mounts, a straight dodge setup and breadbox stuff, but that isn't what this build is about, is it? I like to think my vision has been pretty good so far...

keep in mind... the center of this rigs electrical, is now at that rear box... remote bat switches, with heavy feeds to the rear winch thru solenoids, and a main feed to the starter. that will piggyback the cab feed... that's the "beef" of the electrical system... the only power at my rad support will be headlight relay, etc stuff... for me to design a breakered system, with dedicated harnesses to the various parts of the rig, is vastly smarter than making a "factory style" fuse block, like an American Autowire, etc setup, work with my end plan... it'll be full AM Pro Comps, etc in the dash so at that point, build fresh... yes, I can make the rig run with nothing working in the dash with a single wire to the mill... and i may very well be driving it around without a speedo and such at first... but a "finished" plan needs to be in effect...


in the grand scheme of the swap work, it really isn't that crazy... wire for the whole rig won't be bad, $$$-wise, i have a bunch of it... bat switches, ACR's and such make it a bit pricey... have 2/0 pos cable already, but need the grd.. unfortunately that's a few sheckles... switching and breakers, i'll piece together.. but honestly, as long as i have a good pre-plan, I'm confident that will be "easy evening at the coffee-table" type work mostly during the swap..
 
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Not trying to be negative just don't want this thing to turn into the Blazer, lots of time and effort thousands of hours of amazing work and it is garage art at this point :D

However if being "nagative" (see what I did there) gets you thinking like hey maybe __________ will work instead, then I am all for it.

When @blazinzuk and I work together that is what my job is. A lot of the time I am wrong, but every once and I bring up a good point that works out.
 
Not trying to be negative just don't want this thing to turn into the Blazer, lots of time and effort thousands of hours of amazing work and it is garage art at this point :D

However if being "nagative" (see what I did there) gets you thinking like hey maybe __________ will work instead, then I am all for it.

When @blazinzuk and I work together that is what my job is. A lot of the time I am wrong, but every once and I bring up a good point that works out.


nah, i get that.. and appreciate the "outside perspective".. it's often needed.. especially with my propensities.. :whistle: ;) that why i rely on you guys... trust me, it's why I've been second-guessing the floor build... yup, it'll be stoopid-cool, but realistic build parameters, make me question brilliant ideas.. :surepal: I do try to keep this rig drivable for the most part... and yes, i get the K5 trepidations... :bow: I try to take a different approach with Mutt.. it's been down, but not for overly long periods... and I'm pretty proud of that considering the work the bed has required... I'd be ok with 6 months to a yr for the swap, depending on how crazy i get. but it's a big pile 0' parts i need at this point...
 
boy now I'm a bit annoyed... replacing the sketchy wiring/plug at the dizzy and a new AC Delco module.. same, won't douche on crank, once it fires, it runs fine...

my understanding of the way the system works is that once the ECM sees 300 rpm's, it controls the neg pulse to the injectors.. thus why once you light it off, it continues to run...

that's where the pickup coil comes in, at start crank speed, it lets the ignition module know the engine is spinning and to tell the ECM.. the coil has 12v in and out to the dizzy... i also read that a bad TPS signal can cause it too, an anti flood mode in the ECM.. but they say to just disconnect it, didn't work...

now i had put a new dizzy in, but it did have a bad grd when i first tried it so.... i replaced the wiring/plug, tried, nothing, than replaced the module with a brand new module in case the other got nuked from the bad grd.... it will still not send neg signal out to the ECM... but sheesh, a bad pickup coil, followed by a new dizzy with a bad one?

grrrrrr.... not a good week....
 
Dumb question

TBI right? Is it not hitting fuel prime via the fuel relay?
Yeah, tbi.. I don't think the relay has anything to do with it at this point.. I run a completely dedicated circuit for the pump, separate from the relay
... 13 lbs at the tbi.. runs fine, once the injectors get pulse.....
 
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So no oil pressure bypass, pump is on

If the TPS was the failure point, moving the throttle while cranking would bypass and allow it to start.
Guessing that's not the issue
 
So no oil pressure bypass, pump is on

If the TPS was the failure point, moving the throttle while cranking would bypass and allow it to start.
Guessing that's not the issue


yeah, that was a stab in the dark.... disconnected, or connected, and moving pedal, no fuel from the injectors... everything says it's the module... or pickup... gotta be an ohm/resistence test for the pickup coil... need to go look that up and bring my meter home this week... do they actually have a tester at auto parts places to walk in with a module in hand and have it tested? I'll call my Napa in the morn...

just annoyed, between family, work/hernia health, I'm having trouble finding time for Mutt to begin with these days, maybe a 1/2 day sunday..... and it's just giving me a big middle finger, while I throw more money at a system I'm gonna shelve in a couple yrs anyway.. :doah: I'll be lucky at this point to have it back together and running good again by sept 1... :whistle:
 
Wishing some better luck for ya Paul!



thanks mang.... :bow: just all kinds of sh*t building these days... :doah: i'm getting slaughtered at work, i can barely walk 1/2 the time, dad is near the end and when i can muster the energy/time, my Mutt is fighting me.. I don't mind when it's fun fab stuff fuggin with me, simple mechanical schtuff messing with me is ghey....

considering the crazy sh*t i diagnose/fix at work, I'm a bit annoyed that I'm having trouble with a simple rig like this... :doah: :doah: :haha:
 
thanks mang.... :bow: just all kinds of sh*t building these days... :doah: i'm getting slaughtered at work, i can barely walk 1/2 the time, dad is near the end and when i can muster the energy/time, my Mutt is fighting me.. I don't mind when it's fun fab stuff fuggin with me, simple mechanical schtuff messing with me is ghey....

considering the crazy sh*t i diagnose/fix at work, I'm a bit annoyed that I'm having trouble with a simple rig like this... :doah: :doah: :haha:
Sometimes we get in a slump like this, a few months ago I had 3 cars down and everything I tried failed, I started getting really annoyed, it took almost a year before I got the first one figured out, then my confidence came back and I got all of them running in no time.
 

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