Ryoken's 89 Crew Cab Tubebed build... aka Mutt....

[ryoken]

good point... I was actually originally thinking of indoor/outdoor type carpet.. and I may still do that on the ramp due to ease of install.. run some bass boat stuff... but I'm pretty certain I've decided to use something like the rubber bedmat I use in the coffin of Mutt in the kennel..

McBible has all kinds of different rubber sheet/product if I decide to pick something fancy... just gonna be easier to keep it clean back there with that as the base that I can pull out and rinse off.. sure, I'll have a big soft dog bed laying in the middle for him.. but over by the doors, it'll be rubber..

 

[blazinzuk]

3 words..... gull wing doors





Pretty interested to see where this goes as it is something I have never even thought about.

 

[ryoken]

what do you think of the 10 gauge choice Eric?


with so much flatpaneling, I think it'll help me keep the support structure to a sane level....




gonna see how crazy it is after work to get the doors modded to open much closer to 90 degrees out... I'll report back....

 

[blazinzuk]

It's a large peice. I usually favor a thinner gauge and added structure underneath. 10 gauge I think is a good compromise.

I tend to figure out what thickness I want to use plan it out and then start looking if a thicker or thinner steel adds enough advantages to change.

10 gauge should be thick enough to stand much on its own usually freeing up space.

So that's a no on the gull wing doors ?

 

[ryoken]

So that's a no on the gull wing doors ?

negatory, tho my bat box WILL resemble a flux capacitor...




ok, here's some pic things...





here's a view to show actually how far the door opens.. further than I was originally thinking...

that will easily allow a 12, 13" wide ramp..

if modded, you wouldn't want the outer part of the door any more open than 5" or 6" than it is now... but that could yield another 4 or 5" of ramp width prolly...



here's the "slide, stop" I'd have to do sumfin wit... lengthen, melt, etc..

and here are the 2 likely floor levels.. with the ramp in a compartment immediately below...

lower line is probably the lowest I can go with the full width ramp and still leave plenty of room over the framerail and such...... push came to shove, I could probably drop that an inch to 2...




upper line is the highest it would be... mainly due to this nice tab to leave/work off of...

but I can also work off those lower bend lines too.....








here's about what the ramp would be for that top floor spot... with a one piece ramp.. the steepest it would ever be..

I think that'll be fine for a pooch.. about the same angle as stairs.... tho I suppose I could make a longer 2 piece, "one slide inside the other" type one if needed when he get's old and decrepid like me........

 

[ryoken]

oh, and that pic is a bit misleading.. you'll notice the landing area for the ramp is a couple inches lower than the rig.. so the angle would be a bit less most of the time...

 

[cyclic]

Mmmm, just thinking.
Could you not make some nice running boards where the full length step would pivot at the rear and then tilt down to make a ramp?

 

[ryoken]

I just couldn't live with that kinda look... even if they where killer neat transforming pup ramps....

I've just always despised running boards... sliders, even sidepipes, are ok...

 

[cyclic]

I know, I pulled a set of classic ones off my burb. But I will be adding some rock rail style steps as they are needed. I was just thinking that using that method but with a removable tread section that swings and pivots down. You could even hide the bulk of the width under/inside the pinch weld area where the fuel tanks used to be.

 

[ryoken]

I did actually contemplate a full tube slider/step off the bed coming forward.. and working off the frame...

but... that was relatively involved/overkill for a dually tow rig, other than a step... AND that doesn't even include a swing out ramp... that would to come up to floor level or similar... stow with out looking goofy in/among the slider.. lot of work...


I think this solution is the simplest, direct approach.. can be incorporated right with an already extensive as he!! floor project easily... and I'm hoping, it works damn well...


obviously this project wont be going till the spring/summer.. but hopefully this time next yr, i'll be putting the final touches on Malaki's new home..








btw, the 2 side box panels are shaped.. tomorrow I mount em and start on the door/floor...

doubt I'll get the door done by sunday night, we're playing goof this weekend.. (stoked, got my new Titleist 913D2 this week... smoking low draws at the range last night and tonight! )

the door/floor during the week.. and the back, and ceiling will be last, next weekend...... hopefully the box will be done by next sunday..

 

[ryoken]

oh, tonights agenda.....





sit in the tub drinking bourbon and wetsanding the now finished doghouse......

 

[ryoken]

oh, and check this....

for the "paint your roof" crew...

if I can finish the box next weekend... next on the labor list for august?


on the other more wallet-like front.. saving sheckles for the tank (coughandrooflightscough)... and front gears, at this point... we'll see which get's done first... if I can muster up 1500 to 2 g's by sept 1st, it'll be the tank...

 

[chevyfumes]

Honey badger don't care, get one of those.

 

[ryoken]

just a pre LAB™ note to the masses...



alum is a fun medium to work with, but I don't suggest building with it unless you enjoy tiny shards of metal friggin EVERYWHERE...

it literally get's everywhere.. up my stairs, living room floor.. grrrrrrr

sh*t clings to everything, clothes, shoes, etc... the saws shoot it like confetti!




now to go play with it...

 

[cyclic]

Yep, like stripper glitter. It randomly shows up for months, and you think where did that come from? Seconds later your like, I remember :-)

 

[ryoken]

Yep, like stripper glitter. It randomly shows up for months, and you think where did that come from? Seconds later your like, I remember :-)

ok, 3 panels are done.. sides, and back... floor is rough cut...





lot's 0' pixels....

tomorrow if I don't play goof, I'd luv to have the 2 piece floor in, and door... than I'd just have the ceiling for next week, repaint...

but that's a ton of work.. 3 pieces, welding in the hinge... plus putting in the 1/2" steel strip for the latch/door to catch...

plus the latch, but that's like 1/2 hr tops.. I'll really have to kill it to bang that out morrow...






if I play goof, whatever... many neers and death to the pesty honky ball...








but 8 am, homo depot for welding wire... 8:42, in the LAB ™, burnin!!

 

[Slapperbar]

What's your plan to battle galvanic corrosion?
I would REALLY hate to see the EPIC hard work, blood and cubic dollars rot away.

Sorry for the torpedo, you deserve MAD props for the quality and attention to detail in your work/ love.

 

[ryoken]

oh, and my floor jack fits poifectly on one side of that....

throw in a come a long, ratchet straps, chains, gloves, your dead, etc...

 

[ryoken]

What's your plan to battle galvanic corrosion?
I would REALLY hate to see the EPIC hard work, blood and cubic dollars rot away.

Sorry for the torpedo, you deserve MAD props for the quality and attention to detail in your work/ love.

you asked me that before....



I run/douche Lanocote in all my joints/connections/bolts...

haven't had the slightest sign of an issue.... as a boat guy, I'm beyond aware...



tho I have determined that as I finish, pull off panels, I'm gonna start treating the back, underside, of them with sharkhyde...

it's fine, and preferable giving it a quickie burnish every 2 to 4 weeks on the exterior.... been working awesome!

but it could use a more permanent coating on the undersides from mud splash, yada, zombie guts, etc...... especially since I haven't put the final Al pieces, the thin, under, mud skins in yet...

 

[Slapperbar]

Sorry I forgot. As a Sailor it's on the front of my mind. I've got mammary issues, or memory. Whatever.