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Ryoken's Guide to Rust Treatment and Bodywork 101

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ryoken said:
what gun are you shooting the 2k with again? are you sure your vent is clear?

the 2k is a bit on the thick side, but full wet coats with little to no orange peel are pretty easy to achieve with various gun set ups...

it's getting there mang....
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It the startingline with 1.8 yeah I am sure it's clean....near the end of the first coat I could actually see it...I stopped and threw that batch away. I mixed another as fast as I could and sprayed it quickly...it went on a lot wetter, but it still had some dry to it...it's 100 degrees...that may just be too hot...can you thin this stuff or "wet" it for hot temps :dunno:
 
technically, no... they call for no reduction.... tho I'd bet any urethane primer reducer would be ok in it... I do have some here at the house for another brand... next time I'm doing something a bit more on the "sealer" side of things, I'll have to do some experimenting..
 
and yeah, the 100 probably had more to do with it than anything.. and I'm betting the truck was out in the sun all day, so the substrate was probably 287 degrees..
 
Not sure I told you yet, but the Redstone Arsenal paintbooth is out....they got new rules...you have to be the active duty person, you have to take a mandatory safety class, and you cannot bring any automobile onto the Arsenal without it is first registered....soooooo....driveway it is...
 
ryoken said:
and yeah, the 100 probably had more to do with it than anything.. and I'm betting the truck was out in the sun all day, so the substrate was probably 287 degrees..
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you got it...think I put a useless coat on there that is going to give big problems?
 
ryoken said:
buy stock in sheet plastic and 2 x 4's...
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I'm literally going to have to build an outside "room" out of 2x4's aren't I?

Has to be strong enough that the wind won't take it away or collapse it into my wet paint...
 
Chief Brody said:
you got it...think I put a useless coat on there that is going to give big problems?
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eh, you know the game at this point, nothing a little sanding and more primer wont take care of.... keep in mind, if you block the he!! out of the whole truck, and it's dead flat with just a few bare spots? just put a couple piss coats on the spots and run a scuffpad over it and be done...
 
ryoken said:
eh, you know the game at this point, nothing a little sanding and more primer wont take care of.... keep in mind, if you block the he!! out of the whole truck, and it's dead flat with just a few bare spots? just put a couple piss coats on the spots and run a scuffpad over it and be done...
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I wish they made a buff breakthough primer
 
Chief Brody said:
I'm literally going to have to build an outside "room" out of 2x4's aren't I?

Has to be strong enough that the wind won't take it away or collapse it into my wet paint...
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unless you would rather shoot in the garage... I have done a few tents, but always prefer to shoot in a garage, of ANY type usually than a tent outside.. much more controllable situation..


and yeah, frame it out... heavy sheet plastic, staple gun, cinder blocks around the bottom on the 2 x 4's, yada, yada... don't forget lighting and circulation... those 2 are usually much easier achieved in a garage...
 
ryoken said:
unless you would rather shoot in the garage... I have done a few tents, but always prefer to shoot in a garage, of ANY type usually than a tent outside.. much more controllable situation..


and yeah, frame it out... heavy sheet plastic, staple gun, cinder blocks around the bottom on the 2 x 4's, yada, yada... don't forget lighting and circulation... those 2 are usually much easier achieved in a garage...
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Say I do it in the garage...how do I cover everything in plastic?
 
like 1" x 3" firring strips, take plastic and wrap firring strip in end a few wraps, screw into ceiling.. magic wall...

take everything out of the garage you can... clean like a fiend, blow and wash garage out.... figure out an intake and exhaust system.... plastic... wet floor... squirt.. buff... jig...
 
ryoken said:
I don't even know wtf your talking about... wtf is a breakthough primer?
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Breakthrough primer is an epoxy primer in a spray can used to cover those small spots where you "broke through" the primer so you don't have to mix batches....
supposedly all the body shops use this stuff now to save time...
 
aren't too many epoxy primers in a can that i know of... and expensive... it's difficult due to needing catalyst with epoxy resin...
 
Chief Brody said:
Problem 1....I only have the garage door....no windows
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well, than you'll need to build a frame for the lower part of the door... like a furnace filter high... do a couple filters at one end, and a fan/filter setup down at the other end.. definitely not ideal, but I have done it....

make sure your masking on VERY good, and expect it be slow clearing.... you'll want slow hardeners/reducer.. any time your gonna have overspray lingering, especially a full job, you want as much melt-in time as you can get... :popcorn:
 
Well I am pleasantly surprised...something finally when my way....I went out and wet blocked today and the dry primer sanded off like overspray and left a glassy smooth surface. All my blocking work that I had already done was not for nothing. I got most of it done today and see only a few areas that have some shiny speckles...so, I should be able to completely get the doors, quarters and tailgate to a paintable surface tomorrow.

I still got to get in there and sand the inside and the door jambs...and the inside of the doors...and the fenders...and finish the hood...

To top it off 73K5Blazer "Mr. Fiberglass" has offered me his set of NOS trim which includes the full set of wheel well trim and several body side trim pieces.

Also, I sold one of my carburetors and about to sell another and will be just a few dollars shy of the new Rochester Quadrajet.

Now...the big question for Ryoken is...should I forget the fenders tomorrow and focus on getting the firewall, windshield frame and door jambs ready to paint so I can go ahead and put the drive train in?
 
absolutely no point in putting the drivetrain in now.. you need to paint the firewall...

i would get everything ready.. than your first paint load should be trimming the fenders, hood and painting the firewall and all jambs... than you can paint the frame, install the drivetrain, install front clip, final sand, mask, paint exterior...
 
ryoken said:
absolutely no point in putting the drivetrain in now.. you need to paint the firewall...

i would get everything ready.. than your first paint load should be trimming the fenders, hood and painting the firewall and all jambs... than you can paint the frame, install the drivetrain, install front clip, final sand, mask, paint exterior...
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In short...all the sanding need to be done first...

Back to the fenders...I want to paint the inside hollow area black...do I do that first and then stuff the holes with paper when I paint the inside base color?
 
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