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Ryoken's Guide to Rust Treatment and Bodywork 101

Overview Gallery Discussion
Chief Brody said:
I brought out the sandblaster today...I think it was 93 degrees here today...anyway...my sandblaster won't cut it...it hit a spot here and there but on the grainier stuff it wasn't doing anything...humidity was horrible...lots of water in line...
I have tried everything that I own and I cannot get it all out.

I did do the screwdriver test...I leaned on a big philips head with all my body weight on all different places...It didn't go through...there are a couple of pinholes I exposed with a wire brush...I even put the tip of the screwdriver in the hole and it held up....

I've only got two options...take it the body shop and have them put new metal in...or give POR-15 a try...maybe with some epoxy putty and/or fiber mat to strengthen it...

How quickly will it rust out after POR-15 is applied?

By the way...while I had all that stuff out...and was filthy...I took the rear bumper and tailgate off...I decided to sandblast the tailgate cover at least I feel like I got something done....guess what primer that is? Can I paint on top of Ryoken Green self etching primer? or do I need to put regular primer on that?
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random answers....

yes, you can paint directly over the green.... if your not doing a wet on wet application, you need to scuff the green.. a course scuffpad works best but some 400 sandpaper will get ya by... the scuffpad is better because it gets ALL the shine off and cuts to about 400.. sandpaper has a tendency to go thru the green here and there, which you want to avoid..

every garage should have a box of these... and yes, this includes you "mechanic only" types... many other uses other than bodywork...



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obviously it's one less layer of protection/durability.. also the ability or "room" to make a "balls on" perfect, hood-like finish.. a fill or seal primer on the green allows for perfect prep..


options.....

1 - have floor replaced...

2 - por15

3 - converter, than a skim of duraglass

4 - hire a mobile blaster... they'd probably do both sides, that front cab section for $100 to $200


Ryoken - Official CK5 3M pimp :pimp:
 
Greg72 said:
When you put the sandblasting hood on did you remember to say:
"that's some bad hat, Harry"?? :D

Moisture is definitely a problem... Compressing air will cause a lot of heat and you'll get condensation as a result. The good thing is that if you minimize the sand mixture you will get less clogging in the nozzle.

Also, use the smallest ceramic nozzle that will allow sand to pass through it. That will keep the velocity up as well... Change them regularly too. Once the ceramic starts to wear out it the orifice gets larger and will waste a lot of air and kill the speed and cutting power of the sand.

Just a few tips that worked for me.

:usaflag:
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The problem is that now with the high heat and humidity the little dessicant dryer no longer works well...it gets flooded and then actually restricts air flow some....all the things I did before that worked; ice, hanging air hose high then low then high, added extra water seperators....none of that is working in the 94 degree heat...it will cut for the first three seconds after the compressor is full...

I need a real compressor but I cannot drop $1500 right now...

"Yeah...we know all about you chief.....you don't go in the water at all do ya?" ~ Harry Keisel
 
ryoken said:
options.....

1 - have floor replaced...
2 - por15
3 - converter, than a skim of duraglass
4 - hire a mobile blaster... they'd probably do both sides, that front cab section for $100 to $200

Ryoken - Official CK5 3M pimp :pimp:
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option #1: the good thing is that the rust is concentrated in the front, and I can get replacement panels...but what about the GM Trough?

option #2: I still haven't got your 100% blessing on the POR-15...I feel that's not something you would even consider...but you gots tools in the dungeon

option 3: Don't even know what I am looking for with this..what kind or brand...Does POR15 offer this? oh yeah you saud Duraglas

option 4: I don't know if their are any moble sandblasting services near me...I only know of the place that sandblasted my wheels and he is 27 miles away...and I now have no bumper...don't know if I can legally drive...

I can get the front floor panels for about $30 each...I wonder how long it would take the body shop to cut the old out and install those? and then we have the problem of the rust trough which is not part of that replacement panel....
 
gempler's and marhyde used to be good back in the day.. but I hear good things about Eastwoods offering these days.. turns it into black iron tannite..


http://paceperformance.com/i-6493256-ewt51676-eastwood-rust-converter-one-quart.html

if you go that route, talk to me...


check the phonebook under sandblasting, most list if they do mobile... if your ANYWHERE near boats, you'll more than likely have a guy in the area...


now... on to more depressing beach closures... greg, norcal, etc can chime in on the woh's of full verts and rocker boxes.... i've never delved that far into a full vert.. but i would crawl under the truck and poke around real good at the rocker boxes, as I suspect once you/they cut that floor out, the boxes will look like that floor section..

if replacing the floors, you'll definitely want to have them clean out and "treat" the insides of the boxes before the floor gets welded back in... again, I would clean it as best as you can, vac/blow it all out, then converter with some paint douched over it..

the second thing is... don't expect miracles from the aftermarket floor pans.. if they are anything like the second gens, they wont be great pressings.. your bodyshop may be hatin ya.... some of the floor "replacements" do include most of the trough.. edit**** apparently not...
 
2 coats and douche it with paint a couple days later... or you can fill over the black iron tannite too... scuff after a couple days, fill, sand, prime, paint...
 
ryoken said:
2 coats and douche it with paint a couple days later... or you can fill over the black iron tannite too... scuff after a couple days, fill, sand, prime, paint...
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Just that one Eastwood product is all I need? no "prep" fluid or anything else they sell?
for filler you think Duraglas or long hair or shorthair...or does it matter?
 
Also...one more request for advice...

It is a huge struggle to get the plastic tarp sealed up under the dash...the tape just won't stick....

What if I just remove the dash cluster and dash pad and just have at it and clean it out when I am done...or is this a bad idea? :dunno:
 
Chief Brody said:
Just that one Eastwood product is all I need? no "prep" fluid or anything else they sell?
for filler you think Duraglas or long hair or shorthair...or does it matter?
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nope.. just remove clean as much of it as you can, damp/dry towel with denatured, brush it on... usually takes an hr or so to dry.. second coat, let it dry a couple days..

if you want to fill the pits at that point, scuff the he!! out of it.. i would just hard drag a coat of dura to fill the pits.. sand with some 80, fill prime, paint..
 
Chief Brody said:
Also...one more request for advice...

It is a huge struggle to get the plastic tarp sealed up under the dash...the tape just won't stick....

What if I just remove the dash cluster and dash pad and just have at it and clean it out when I am done...or is this a bad idea? :dunno:
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eh, that depends on how comfortable you are taking that apart.. if your not sandblasting, i wouldn't worry....

i use lots of foldout masking film... cover my truck, easily conforms when taped, etc.. super thin and light.. the autobody supply places carry it.. usually like $20 a roll for like 12' x 150'.. wont hold up to blasting, but great for keeping filler dust, overspray, etc off/out of stuff...
 
at the risk of sounding like Lt. Columbo...one more thing...

Did you sandblast your doorjambs and your firewall under the hood?
 
i didn't do my jambs, i just manually stripped em... rolocs, etc... the firewall, yeah, as it was getting a bunch of welding/bodywork done and smoothed...




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keep in mind, my rig was/is fully disassembled..
 
I know I am drifting here a bit, but I am trying to think about things ahead of time...how can I get my firewall clean enough to paint with the engine still in it?

Also, how do you prep that vent area right behind the hood and below the windsheild wipers...looks like that will be tough...

By the way...I purchased that Eastwood Rust Disolver and got free shipping and got it for $22...
 
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ok, well, the dissolver isn't a converter, it's an acid... you'll still wanna treat any remaining areas...

firewall, eh, not easy with everything in there... moving blanket over the motor helps... thorough degrease.. then at least a scuffpad on the metal.. lots of tedious taping, etc...

and certainly not an easy place to work on all hunkered over in the engine compartment... it's one reason many just end up with some satin black or whatever on there.. hides much easier than trying to do a color..
 
just a little warning on rust dissolvers.... btw, evapo-rust is normally what I use.. one of the keys to a rust dissolver is it cannot dry.. which is problematic in your situation.. it is more intended for soaking things in...

you'll have to keep reapplying it over time.. one trick we use to keep areas "wetted out" when say, removing glue from a floor and using lacquer thinner, is to put rags or paper towels over the area, and just keep wetting those over time.. this is problematic as the older acid dissolvers would eat the rags... the newer non-acid dissolvers might not eat paper towels... so plan a day of sitting there and reapplying dissolver for awhile... could be an hr, could be a day...


one other thing... the funny thing about the dissolvers is they say to wash it off, neutralize it with water.. well, thats kinda silly ain't it? you can use lacquer thinner, brake cleaner, etc to do the same thing without flash rusting it...
 
ryoken said:
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Im002719.jpg


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I just realized that's one no one's ever asked me about.. getting rid of the weld seam in the curved portion of the firewall.... welded up and ground smooth.. really gave it such a cleaner look than that factory seam they all have....
 
Ooooooooooooops....I mispoke...I bought what you told me
EWT51676 - Eastwood Rust Converter One Quart


so it is a convertor, not a dissolver...
 
ryoken said:
I just realized that's one no one's ever asked me about.. getting rid of the weld seam in the curved portion of the firewall.... welded up and ground smooth.. really gave it such a cleaner look than that factory seam they all have....
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Man I thought something looked different....I just couldn't place it...dang that firewall looks good...

Given what you said about a satin black, would you still paint the inside of the fenders the same color as the outside or would you go with an all black engine compartment?
 
oh yeah...it's gonna drive me crazy until I know...how do you prep the vents that are between the hood and the windsheild? :dunno::confused:
 
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