I got some self-etching primer with Zinc Chromate today...it is green....
CK5
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Ryoken's Guide to Rust Treatment and Bodywork 101
- Thread starter Chief Brody
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- ryoken green
it's taken about 8 yrs of me espousing it in here, but I'll eventually have everybody using it... 
pm me if ya need any help...
pm me if ya need any help...
In the words of Chief Martin Brody on the Orca, after he has just seen the shark..."How do we handle this"?....."How do we handle this"?
I used 60 Grit dual action, and a 4.5 inch flap wheel and even tried a wire brush. I did not expect to find this rusty "crack" area and I can't seem to get into the little pits.
What do I do with this rusty crack?
Where do I go from here with the pits?
I used 60 Grit dual action, and a 4.5 inch flap wheel and even tried a wire brush. I did not expect to find this rusty "crack" area and I can't seem to get into the little pits.
What do I do with this rusty crack?
Where do I go from here with the pits?
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first, do you have any welding capability?
I have no experience, but could probably do some of the minor forms like the solder type...but I don't own a welder...maybe would be cheaper to just take it to a welder? Or what do you suggest?
well, as with a lot of bodywork, you have lots of choices, from hack to over the top perfect...
from leaving it like that and treating it with, maybe some converter, and filling the crack with say, some short hair like a Dynaglass.... to opening it up some, blasting, treating, welding, prime/paint......
because you can be rest assured, if that rust on the sub panel is any indicator, it's pervasive into the joint... the surface pits you couldn't get out are an indicator of that too...
if it where mine, I would probably be opening up the crack a bit, cutting downwards a bit on the siderail with a cutoff wheel, opening it up a bit with a screwdriver and blasting what i could see.. then I'd probably just inject-treat the rest with converter, weldprime, close up the crack, weld, fair, prime, yada..
you can even goes as so far as to drilling out the spotwelds, cutting more with cutoff wheel and removing that outer lip..
BUT... in your case, I would suggest cleaning it up some more and maybe having a bodyshop run a nice bead of mig down the crack.. that's an easy one for them, your actually laying the bead on the sub panel and just flowing it to catch the edges of the exterior panels..
either have them grind out their weld, or save money and bring it home and shape it yourself...
what would do you well right here would obviously be a small sandblaster.. blast it right like that, it gets the pits and does the exposed area in the crack for a perfect weld....
but other tools can get ya by too.... you could clean the crack out pretty good in a couple seconds by lightly dragging the edge of a cutoff wheel in that groove.. thats actually also very effective for nipping out most of that surface pitting too..
various carbide burr tips in a die grinder or dremel tool are also good for getting in the cracks and crevices too..
obviously once the metal work is done in whatever capacity you choose, you'll need to fair it... will more than likely need some minor fill once the weld is ground down...
fillers are a subject all unto themselves... I'd probably just drag a bit of duraglass over it, sand, prime, paint...
from leaving it like that and treating it with, maybe some converter, and filling the crack with say, some short hair like a Dynaglass.... to opening it up some, blasting, treating, welding, prime/paint......
because you can be rest assured, if that rust on the sub panel is any indicator, it's pervasive into the joint... the surface pits you couldn't get out are an indicator of that too...
if it where mine, I would probably be opening up the crack a bit, cutting downwards a bit on the siderail with a cutoff wheel, opening it up a bit with a screwdriver and blasting what i could see.. then I'd probably just inject-treat the rest with converter, weldprime, close up the crack, weld, fair, prime, yada..
you can even goes as so far as to drilling out the spotwelds, cutting more with cutoff wheel and removing that outer lip..
BUT... in your case, I would suggest cleaning it up some more and maybe having a bodyshop run a nice bead of mig down the crack.. that's an easy one for them, your actually laying the bead on the sub panel and just flowing it to catch the edges of the exterior panels..
either have them grind out their weld, or save money and bring it home and shape it yourself...
what would do you well right here would obviously be a small sandblaster.. blast it right like that, it gets the pits and does the exposed area in the crack for a perfect weld....
but other tools can get ya by too.... you could clean the crack out pretty good in a couple seconds by lightly dragging the edge of a cutoff wheel in that groove.. thats actually also very effective for nipping out most of that surface pitting too..
various carbide burr tips in a die grinder or dremel tool are also good for getting in the cracks and crevices too..
obviously once the metal work is done in whatever capacity you choose, you'll need to fair it... will more than likely need some minor fill once the weld is ground down...
fillers are a subject all unto themselves... I'd probably just drag a bit of duraglass over it, sand, prime, paint...
magik235
Still Alive
I have used Pettit products on a variety of boat and car projects and have been satisfied. Is Pettit's 6462 Zinc Chromate Primer an effective zinc chromate primer?it's taken about 8 yrs of me espousing it in here, but I'll eventually have everybody using it...
it's comparable to the Moeller stuff i've been using.... I actually use a fair amount of Petitt stuff at work, but haven't used their zinc in awhile..
i just prefer a rattlecan if i'm going to use an aired-dried zinc.... if i'm gonna break out a spraygun, I'll use a better 2-part zinc wash usually, like Awlgrip's 9072..
i just prefer a rattlecan if i'm going to use an aired-dried zinc.... if i'm gonna break out a spraygun, I'll use a better 2-part zinc wash usually, like Awlgrip's 9072..
Will a soda blaster from Harbor Freight be enough to do this?
got a link? I blasted my whole truck with their 20 lb pressurized abrasive blaster.. works fine and would do that in 10 seconds..
you've brought up a touchy subject for me with soda blasting.... i could diatribe on the subject all day when it comes to the boats.. really a spot like that you want something a bit more aggressive of a media... 00 sand, black bueaty, etc, something with some cut.... soda blasting is ok for removing paint from a hood or something where your worried about heat warpage, etc, but even then there are other options... walnuts, plactic beads, yada, yada..
you've brought up a touchy subject for me with soda blasting.... i could diatribe on the subject all day when it comes to the boats.. really a spot like that you want something a bit more aggressive of a media... 00 sand, black bueaty, etc, something with some cut.... soda blasting is ok for removing paint from a hood or something where your worried about heat warpage, etc, but even then there are other options... walnuts, plactic beads, yada, yada..
http://www.harborfreight.com/15-lb-portable-soda-blaster-66742.html
http://www.harborfreight.com/40-lb-portable-soda-blaster-67625.html
http://www.harborfreight.com/portable-abrasive-blaster-kit-37025.html
I liked the idea of the soda just washing away with water
http://www.harborfreight.com/40-lb-portable-soda-blaster-67625.html
http://www.harborfreight.com/portable-abrasive-blaster-kit-37025.html
I liked the idea of the soda just washing away with water
you can do dry soda and use a hose for ground clean up, just don't, i hate to even say it, rinse it out of the clean steel.. blow gun for that... it'll take a bit longer but it'll work fine... it's not that big of a huge mess job there.. and the soda blasters are pricey compared to the sandblasters, but whatever floats your Orca...
Nice touch! Maybe I don't need a bigger boat...what did you think about the $19.99 portable?
http://www.harborfreight.com/portabl...kit-37025.html
eh, I'm not a fan of gravity fed blasters.. yes, it will work for that.. but it'll be VERY slow...
i much prefer a pressurized system.. my 20 lb'er does a great job for cheap... think they're $60.. i'd like to have the 40 just so i didn't have to refill as much... but they both have a reasonable pattern capability, whereras the spotblaster are pretty pathetic...
for an example, lets say you blasted your nicely painted glovebox door.. my 20 lb would do it in about 30 seconds to a minute, whereas a gravity spot fed might take 10 minutes..
like i said, it'll work fine for that repair, but it's pretty dainty..
i much prefer a pressurized system.. my 20 lb'er does a great job for cheap... think they're $60.. i'd like to have the 40 just so i didn't have to refill as much... but they both have a reasonable pattern capability, whereras the spotblaster are pretty pathetic...
for an example, lets say you blasted your nicely painted glovebox door.. my 20 lb would do it in about 30 seconds to a minute, whereas a gravity spot fed might take 10 minutes..
like i said, it'll work fine for that repair, but it's pretty dainty..
OK...this one it is then...
http://www.harborfreight.com/20-lb-capacity-pressurized-abrasive-blaster-40925.html
http://www.harborfreight.com/20-lb-capacity-pressurized-abrasive-blaster-40925.html
now... before I talk you into something that is not right for "you".... I'm sure your not running a Quincy like mine, so what is your compressor?
also... one advantage of the spotblaster over the 20 is your need to protect other surfaces, etc goes up with the 20... anything in the area that ya don't want hit, you'll need to protect with cardboard, plywood, duct tape, whatever.... but I'm assuming any paint that gets removed in the bed area is fine as your redoing it all... but you'll wanna tarp off the dash, etc....
that 20 lber with a decent compressor and decent media, could blast that whole bed in a couple hrs.. but you can run soda thru it too if you wanted iirc..just be forewarned.... it's a messy affair.. whatever media you use will get EVERYWHERE... and obviously, wear a respirator no matter what media you use...
also... one advantage of the spotblaster over the 20 is your need to protect other surfaces, etc goes up with the 20... anything in the area that ya don't want hit, you'll need to protect with cardboard, plywood, duct tape, whatever.... but I'm assuming any paint that gets removed in the bed area is fine as your redoing it all... but you'll wanna tarp off the dash, etc....
that 20 lber with a decent compressor and decent media, could blast that whole bed in a couple hrs.. but you can run soda thru it too if you wanted iirc..just be forewarned.... it's a messy affair.. whatever media you use will get EVERYWHERE... and obviously, wear a respirator no matter what media you use...
I have an Alton 3HP 11 Gallon
Working pressure: 95-125 PSI. -5.0 CFM 40 PSI, 4.0 CFM 90 PSI
That would be great if I could sandblast the whole bed....
Working pressure: 95-125 PSI. -5.0 CFM 40 PSI, 4.0 CFM 90 PSI
That would be great if I could sandblast the whole bed....
well, it'll work.. you'd have to stop every now and then to let it catch up...
start out hitting the rust, and if it's doing well, keep going... remember one of the biggest advantages of a blaster is nooks and crannies... so if your gonna leave anything undone, bigger, flatter areas that you can get a machine sander on are best left for last when blasting..
obviously, pull the top, do it outside... be aware of where your angle of attack is coming from.. in other words, try to make your ricocheting sand head out the back of the bed.. as opposed to going under the dash... a nice big tarp over the windshield down under the dash and over the nose is a good idea...
have fun, it's nasty, dirty work, but there's something highly satisfying about about watching that clean steel come up..
oh, and be advised that hood they give ya sucks... a run a full face grinding shield, with either a double band dust mask, or my paint respirator under it..
something like this...
start out hitting the rust, and if it's doing well, keep going... remember one of the biggest advantages of a blaster is nooks and crannies... so if your gonna leave anything undone, bigger, flatter areas that you can get a machine sander on are best left for last when blasting..
obviously, pull the top, do it outside... be aware of where your angle of attack is coming from.. in other words, try to make your ricocheting sand head out the back of the bed.. as opposed to going under the dash... a nice big tarp over the windshield down under the dash and over the nose is a good idea...
have fun, it's nasty, dirty work, but there's something highly satisfying about about watching that clean steel come up..
oh, and be advised that hood they give ya sucks... a run a full face grinding shield, with either a double band dust mask, or my paint respirator under it..
something like this...
Yes, I can vouch for this advice. Wear lots of protection and do it outside. I did some sandblasting in my garage one winter. Never again! If working in the bed, I would mask off the whole cab of the truck with paper, plastic, whatever.
I have that one, and It's not bad for the price, but of you think you will have more need for blasting then get the 20 lbs.
I am.
I am.
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