I'm stoked....I already spent that much on tools and stuff to patch the old rusty one....how do you get the old one off...the places it is welded?
Is this a good way to go? New metal?
CK5
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Ryoken's Guide to Rust Treatment and Bodywork 101
- Thread starter Chief Brody
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- ryoken green
I'm stoked....I already spent that much on tools and stuff to patch the old rusty one....how do you get the old one off...the places it is welded?
Is this a good way to go? New metal?
only better way to go would be a NOS one... not gonna find one of those..
it should be spot welded down the front on the skin and inner panel..
it SHOULD be bolted all the way down the floor and wheelwell..
then it'll have 4 bolts in the back under the C-pillar to the tailpan (which you should inspect carefully at this time)
then it'll have a fillet weld or 2 where the c-pillar meets the floor...
a cutoff wheel and wrench will do the back... the front, an airhammer is best.. followed by a grinder... but you could get away with a spotweld drill bit and a hammer and chisel...
you can see in my later 87, they had it welded at the floor up by the door, but yours should have bolts..
it should be spot welded down the front on the skin and inner panel..
it SHOULD be bolted all the way down the floor and wheelwell..
then it'll have 4 bolts in the back under the C-pillar to the tailpan (which you should inspect carefully at this time)
then it'll have a fillet weld or 2 where the c-pillar meets the floor...
a cutoff wheel and wrench will do the back... the front, an airhammer is best.. followed by a grinder... but you could get away with a spotweld drill bit and a hammer and chisel...
you can see in my later 87, they had it welded at the floor up by the door, but yours should have bolts..
Since mine doesn't have a "B" column, the striker bolt plate won't be part of the quarter panel will it?
Will mine be any different than yours?
Will mine be any different than yours?
other than not having the roof, i think it's the same.. never did a full convert.. rene, 69norcal, one of those guys should be able to chime in on any differences...
At those prices for the Goodmarks stuff, I could literally put on all new sheetmetal all the way around, including hood, for less than $2000...no bodywork required except the welding...I mean no body filler....just a thought....
well, keep in mind, your talking all Taiwan stampings.. it's not quite that simple... expect some "massaging" to be needed.... lining up an entire full convert in Taiwan stampings? fair bit of work there, if your lucky.. that's where having 30 yrs in, pays off...
thus you may end up with a bit of filler here and there... you can get away with a 110 mig for that job...
thus you may end up with a bit of filler here and there... you can get away with a 110 mig for that job...
truly the only parts I need to consider replacing are that left quarter panel and the drivers side door...it's pretty bad at the bottom, and the tailgate will be tedious...it needs welding in 3 spots.
both my front fenders are currently Taiwan metal...I can see the stickers...
if I could get that quarter panel replaced I wouldn't have to worry about rust for a long time....if fixing the current one only lasts for 10 years...
both my front fenders are currently Taiwan metal...I can see the stickers...
if I could get that quarter panel replaced I wouldn't have to worry about rust for a long time....if fixing the current one only lasts for 10 years...
By the way, any panel I do replace like the left front fender which I already have....do you put those on and align them before you ever paint them, or do you paint them and then align them?
keep in mind the rest of the undercarriage, rocker boxes, tailpan, etc.. there are lots of places for rust to hide on these rigs...
it's really a question of how extensive you wanna be... i find it hard owning a blaster and knowing the proper coating procedures to NOT do everything right... with some vehicles, not in the same order, etc..
it's really a question of how extensive you wanna be... i find it hard owning a blaster and knowing the proper coating procedures to NOT do everything right... with some vehicles, not in the same order, etc..
you trim them out.. sand whole fender, or strip the EDP coating, your choice.. proper prime coat.. paint all the jambs, edges, etc... install and align... prep, exterior paint...
also, it's often wise with Taiwan stuff to bolt/align it first to make sure it's good, or if it needs a little "massaging" prior to trimming.. remove/trim/reinstall......
newer car in a body shop? ya just trim it out...
My blaster and tiny compressor are killing me...it works for 5 seconds, then I have to unclog it...works for 5 seconds then I have to shake it...that's why it takes me 10 or 12 hours to do anything...
I am warming to the idea of taking panels off...I hadn't really considered that as a real possibility before...but most of them bolt on...If I could get my blaster working I really do some good with one panel at a time...especially the doors...
I am warming to the idea of taking panels off...I hadn't really considered that as a real possibility before...but most of them bolt on...If I could get my blaster working I really do some good with one panel at a time...especially the doors...
make sure your running fine, CLEAN, dry sand.. strain it if you have to... the HF doesn't like anything gritty with that nozzle.. and obviously you know water is very bad....
true test of a compressor.. I can run my same blaster all day at full bore and the quincy laughs..
true test of a compressor.. I can run my same blaster all day at full bore and the quincy laughs..
I bought fine sandblasting sand in a sealed bag...I saw something that I am going to try to get rid of the water....a copper coil and a 5 gallon bucket of ice...it's supposed to cool the air in the line and prevent the water from forming...
a Cool Can for your blaster!! 
I loved running them back in the day on the Mopars...
I loved running them back in the day on the Mopars...
Is that a fuel line ice box?
correct...
hey...it's got 3/8" thread....I wonder if it's the same thread as the 3/8 air hose?
it would be NPT, so yes... but at over $100, your better off buying a nice desiccant filter...
think that would solve my problem?
My compressor has to run almost non-stop and gets very hot...it makes the air very hot...how long will a dessicant filter last?
The cheesy one at HF is 1/4" and everything I have is 3/8"....
My compressor has to run almost non-stop and gets very hot...it makes the air very hot...how long will a dessicant filter last?
The cheesy one at HF is 1/4" and everything I have is 3/8"....
At work, we have to leave the light on in our blast cabinet to help keep the media dry.
Don't really help in your situation with water in your line.
Don't really help in your situation with water in your line.
