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Ryoken's Guide to Rust Treatment and Bodywork 101

your best best would be to run 2 hoses... compressor to a dessicant filter, then another hose to the blaster... route the line up before the filter some, then up/down again after... that chases the water back to the compressor, and any line condensation back into the filter

here's the NOS binks one I got on eghey for about $55....


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oh, and maybe Rene should move this thread to the body shop? fair amount of tech going on...
 
I've been mulling that over, it's definitely body tech but it's seeing a lot of traffic here and probably helping more guys by being here. :dunno:

I think for now we'll leave it here in the Garage. I may move it later so it's easy to find as a resource in the Body shop forum. For now this thread is still quite active.

Rene
 
I bought fine sandblasting sand in a sealed bag...I saw something that I am going to try to get rid of the water....a copper coil and a 5 gallon bucket of ice...it's supposed to cool the air in the line and prevent the water from forming...

Run from your tank thru a hose coiled in a bucket of ice, then another tank with a bottom drain. Leave the bottom drain leaking a little. You have to have the second tank or the water will just condense out quicker. but will still be in the hose.
 
other than not having the roof, i think it's the same.. never did a full convert.. rene, 69norcal, one of those guys should be able to chime in on any differences...

I really can't help you with that one. It all sounds very similar to the 1st gen's though. With one exception, you can't buy 1st gen blazer panels, they only sell 6' long pickup bed panels. I cut mine about 2" back from the front of the B pillar to remove it and had to cut off about 8" of the new panel to get it close. Then it was a lot of blue tape and pencil lines to show where I needed to work the panel down so it would fit correctly.

Not trying to bag on any of the repop panels, some are just better than others. I bought two new fenders and doors a couple of weeks ago. The doors should work, the fenders were way off. I ended up buying a front clip off a pickup and used those. As far as all the lines and gaps, what a pain in the back side. I know that I have three full weekends on welding in the new quarter panel and gap adjustment. I probably have another 8 hours to get them all were I want them. It is strait up a lot of work and time to de-rust and build one of these old K5's the way you have it pictured in your head..

I feel your pain on the blasting. I ended up doing my entire tub in my garage with the same blaster that Ryoken and you have. Go for a bit, shake it, go for a bit, shake it. You end up lugging the thing around shaking it with one hand while you blast with the other. Not a lot of fun.


Remember this though, YOU can do it. I did, or at least I am doing. I really never used a welder before this project. Now 1+ years later I can see the light. It feels good knowing that out of 4935 original 1969 blazers built, I truly own one that I have changed every bolt on and made it rust free.

Good luck and keep up the questions. I have learned a lot from this thread.
 
Not trying to bag on any of the repop panels, some are just better than others. I bought two new fenders and doors a couple of weeks ago. The doors should work, the fenders were way off..


wow...can you tell me what brand you bought or where you got them? Are the fenders the Sherman brand? or Goodmark?
 
I need advice on the quarter panel....I called Goodmark today and confirmed that the panel is indeed the complete quarter panel...but, I can't get it till mid June.
What would you do? fill the rusty one or wait on the new one?
 
In addition to my previous two questions.....what is the perfect gap between body panels, and what are the max and min tolerance?
 
Figuring that you are dead set on a total quarter replacement, why don't you take the old one down completely to see how bad the entire thing is. If it's just that little spot on the top and the rest of the panel is good, use the money and buy a welder. You're going to need one anyways, no matter what route you take. Then you can cut out the bad spot, replace and fill. The panel is done for the same amount of money and you gained a tool.

I just don't think that your going to get away without using some fill along the way.
 
I'm not dead set on a new quarter, I am worried about filling that one and in 10 years there are bubbles coming through the paint again...
Also, I don't know if I am capable of cutting that rust out and welding in a patch....I have never layed a hand on a welder before...mybe it's not that hard, but I don't know....
What MIG welder can you get for $300?

If I were to cut the rust out, would I just cut the top of the bedrail out in a long square?
 
by the way, you still didn't tell me what brand body panels you bought that were way off....
 
I can tell you this...the filler in this spot where the arrow is is about 1/4 inch thick and I don't know why...doesn't look bad...just wonder why it needed to be built up so thick...


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Did you figure on shipping for the QP? The one that I just bought was $550.00+ $200.00 for shipping. Big box, big $$...

Just looked on Northern tool and found a couple in the ~$500.00 range. I know that there are some threads in the tool shed for welders.

As far as the patch, Yeah, cut it out along the top. Take that piece and trace it onto your new metal. Cut it out with your new grinder and a cut off wheel. Use a flap disk to get it perfect, tack it in.

Remember if you do cut it on the top, only do it through the top layer of metal, the bottom layer may still be good. If the bottom is good it will give you something to lay your new piece on. That way you shouldn't need to worry about magnets or metal clamps for the new piece.
 
Did you figure on shipping for the QP? The one that I just bought was $550.00+ $200.00 for shipping. Big box, big $$...


That's the thing...I don't pay shipping...I have a Goodmark distributor here that will deliver it to my door free of charge...the QP is $300...that's it...less if he gives me the garage price...
 
Front fenders: I don't know what they were. Was going to do a full order with Wes (Classic Heartbeat, from your other thread) and it came out to $1800.00. Checked C-list one more time and found the doors and fenders in SF. drove down the next day and bought them. He bought them in 07 and couldn't remember were he got them.

The extra fill might be to keep the door and QP flush. I found some of that on my rig. Instead of adjusting the doors, they just added mud.
 
Best part about having the distributor is that he will take them back if they aren't correct....
 
That's the thing...I don't pay shipping...I have a Goodmark distributor here that will deliver it to my door free of charge...the QP is $300...that's it...less if he gives me the garage price...

You win!!:waytogo: Just can't beat free shipping now a days.

How much is it going to cost you for your guy to weld it on? I know 2k for all but, do you need all?
 
You win!!:waytogo: Just can't beat free shipping now a days.

How much is it going to cost you for your guy to weld it on? I know 2k for all but, do you need all?

I don't think I need all ... it was just tempting to think about because I found the distributor and don't have to pay shipping....
How long does it take to remove a quarter panel? How long does it take to put one on? He said $50 an hour....what price would be a good deal?
 
How long does it take to remove a quarter panel? How long does it take to put one on? He said $50 an hour....what price would be a good deal?


For a nOOb like me, more money than it would be worth for ya. :D

Guys like Paul or Rene, don't really know. Maybe 6-8 hours as I think yours is just hooked and spot welded to the front of the B pillar. But again, I really don't know what is involved with your year of truck and quarter panel replacement.

I'm sure one of them will chime in.
 
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