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Ryoken's Guide to Rust Treatment and Bodywork 101

Overview Gallery Discussion
Well, I have a set of fiberglass bedsides siting in my bedroom waiting for me to install them on my blazer.
I kind of curious how much work it going to be to remove the old bedsides. :whistle:
It looks like I'm going to learn from Chief Brodie's mistakes.:popcorn:

EDIT-

NorCal69 said:
For a nOOb like me, more money than it would be worth for ya. :D

Guys like Paul or Rene, don't really know. Maybe 6-8 hours as I think yours is just hooked and spot welded to the front of the B pillar. But again, I really don't know what is involved with your year of truck and quarter panel replacement.

I'm sure one of them will chime in.
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I was looking at mine the other day, and the one problem that may be a problem (besides spot welds for a novice) is going to be support that goes between the inter and and outer panel in the wheel well area.
 
well, back in my collision shop days, a qrter on a truck like yours would be off and on in a good long day, 8 to 10 hrs... thats no extracurricular stuff like rust blasting, etc... just cut off, fitted, welded on and seam sealed..
 
ryoken said:
well, back in my collision shop days, a qrter on a truck like yours would be off and on in a good long day, 8 to 10 hrs... thats no extracurricular stuff like rust blasting, etc... just cut off, fitted, welded on and seam sealed..
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So...roughly $400 to $500 on the low side?

That adds more to think about....
 
Of course I won't really know how much they would charge until I asked for a quote...
So this still leaves me with wondering which direction to go.

If I fill the rail again, am I pretty much guaranteed the rust will return and ruin the future paint job that costs lots of money?

Cutting the rust out is "iffy" because it is almost a certainty that the inner part also has rust and I want to keep the screw holes that allows the top to be attached...

Replacing the quarter panel eliminates the rust problem, but suddenly becomes a large expense that I had not anticipated...that's assuming that I can't remove the old one myself and put the new one on...I could buy a welder, but could I get it aligned correctly by myself?

In addition to that, I wouldn't mind having a look inside with the panel removed...although I am afraid what I might see...I paid more for this K5 and had it shipped thinking I wouldn't have any metal to replace...:doah:
 
Well...everythings on hold...we have no power for 7 to 9 days...tornadoes took out the main nuclear power plant feeder lines...
i rigged an inverter to my truck battery and got my laptop and network up for a few minutes...I will be back on this when things get back to normal...we got over 200 dead here, I thank the Lord we are ok...

hope all other Southern region folks made it out ok....
 
We finally got utilities back late Sunday night, didn't get them back on at work until late Tuesday night...
I went into a new auto body supply store I found and picked up a can of All Metal just because he had it...
While talking to him, he told me about a Tech school here that has an auto body repair class where they teach you how to fill and weld...I am going to consider it...they let you bring your own project and they have a professionally stocked garage...welders, lifts, tools....
if I can learn to MIG weld, there's no telling what I might do...I would have extra sets of hands to help...the instructor is a retired bodyman...

what do you think? have you ever been to a course like this?
 
glad to hear things are back on, hope all is good...

I took 2 yrs of bodywork at vo-tech my jr and sr yr in high school.. not really the most "real world work" orientated, but a good base knowledge... I did some of the bodywork on my Duster in there...


knowledge is never a bad thing...
 
I wonder how much time you actually get to work on your own project? Like I was hoping I could weld up my striker bolt panel that is cracked...
and if they had the tools, I was hoping I could replace the quarterpanel...that alone would be worth the price of admission...

Hey, the guy at the paint store today said he restores old chevy trucks also...he said he likes to fill holes by filling them in with a MIG welder...does that make any sense?
 
Chief Brody said:
I wonder how much time you actually get to work on your own project? Like I was hoping I could weld up my striker bolt panel that is cracked...
and if they had the tools, I was hoping I could replace the quarterpanel...that alone would be worth the price of admission...

Hey, the guy at the paint store today said he restores old chevy trucks also...he said he likes to fill holes by filling them in with a MIG welder...does that make any sense?
Click to expand...


as long as you sandblast all the metal clean, it is a way to fill holes.

I have a buddy that has Rustbuster zinc spray arc machine. I want to get my hands on it soooo bad

[YOUTUBE]http://youtu.be/uV-QPTpJaYo[/YOUTUBE]
 
that spraywelder is insane...the only problem I see is that it only hits the outside surface...so if there is rust underneath it will still creep up...I bet those things are expensive...
 
that's how we repair shafts on the boats sometimes...

mig-ing up holes is fine.. it's generally the way i do it.. but you have to be aware that usually the surrounding area is thin, thus why you have a hole there... thin metal can be difficult to weld... easy to blow thru and make the hole bigger...

man, it's been yrs since i used All-metal... we used to use tons of that back in the day.. it's good for certain things...
 
well, in the old, old days when we did lots of brazing, it made a good seam coat for patches, qrter sails, etc... it also makes a nice base fill for deeper dents..

where they used it to fill that 2 panel void at the hole on your's is an ok use of it too.. but it's good they had a skim coat of glass over it to allow for some flexability, as the all-metal tends to not have much forgiveness for movement...
 
ryoken said:
well, in the old, old days when we did lots of brazing, it made a good seam coat for patches, qrter sails, etc... it also makes a nice base fill for deeper dents..

where they used it to fill that 2 panel void at the hole on your's is an ok use of it too.. but it's good they had a skim coat of glass over it to allow for some flexability, as the all-metal tends to not have much forgiveness for movement...
Click to expand...

That's kind of what I had in mind was refilling those big holes with it and covering that with either the Duraglas or the Rage Gold...
 
I have the all metal stuff in my garage, I've used it for some minor repair work on the rocker panel/cab corner seams. Its good stuff :waytogo:
 
I got a 100' air line for my compressor and coiled up several feet and put it in a cooler full of ice....added a new water seperator and dessicant dryer...finally the sandblaster works.

I blasted the bed rail back to bare metal again and then put the Duraglas filler on again. The first batch I mixed so hot that it was like hard rubber by the time I put the spreader in it.

This was another whole day on this again...I finally got it to a point where I thought I was ready to use the glaze on it. I glazed it and then sanded it down with 220...it felt completely smooth when I rubbed my hand on it...
but, when I sprayed primer on it, I could see the places where the glazed patches were showing through. It was getting dark and I quit for the day, I haven't looked at it since it dried...
I'm not happy with my results so far...I'll take some pictures if it doesn't rain tomorrow.
 
ummm, sounds like you where rushing.... glaze is for AFTER primer, and ya try not to need any... duraglass, reskim it, or skim it in the gold, sand till perfect, prime... glaze for sratches and MINOR imperfections......
 
ryoken said:
ummm, sounds like you where rushing.... glaze is for AFTER primer, and ya try not to need any... duraglass, reskim it, or skim it in the gold, sand till perfect, prime... glaze for sratches and MINOR imperfections......
Click to expand...

yes...it was getting dark on me quick and I was rushing....

I am having trouble laying a reasonably even surface across the top of the rail, and it never goes on smooth...there are always little "channels" and "potholes" when I spread it...

I am not sure, but I think I am going to have to put a 1/8 inch layer on top and just try to block it out.

Could you tell me again the proper way to skim...am I to be laying this on top of the entire rail at once, or just working one small are at a time?
 
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