can you paint over it?
CK5
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Ryoken's Guide to Rust Treatment and Bodywork 101
- Thread starter Chief Brody
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- ryoken green
yup.. just like factory stuff.. actually, it's better...
momentary off topic....is the bed floor welded on or just bolted on and does it have to come up to replace that tail pan?
Here is one, but it looks like it is upside down:
http://www.paddockcarparts.com/prod...T-SUBURBAN-REAR CROSS MEMBER&sku=4174-790-731
Here is one, but it looks like it is upside down:
http://www.paddockcarparts.com/prod...T-SUBURBAN-REAR CROSS MEMBER&sku=4174-790-731
that's a bit of a loaded question... I would say it's about 75% welded and some bolting.. this also depends on yr... newer rigs have more welding.. the floor is bolted to the wheelwells and a good portoin of the qrters.. but it is fulled spotwelded to the footwell step, and spotwelded to the top of the tailpan..
which brings up #2... the floor is spot welded across the back to the top of the tailpan... then the floor lips over the tailpan.. usually it's seam sealed there...
if you just want to do the tailpan, you don't even need a spotwelding drillbit... you can just locate the spotwelds with a light grinding, and drill right thru with a regular drill bit.. then once you have the tailpan out, you'll have have holes in the floor.. put new tailpan in and plug weld the holes in to the new tailpan.. also known as a poorman's spotweld..
you may need/want to sandblast and zinc the last 3", 4" of the floor on the underside.. it's also critical to properly seam seal the underside once done...
yes, that pic is upside down...
I'll take a closeup pic of that area when I have it out this weekend...not sure what's going on there but probably you can tell just by looking at the pics...
have some faith brudda!
Looking closely and uncovering things on this 37 year old truck is like opening Pandora's box...sometimes I don't want to know...
can't blame the bodyshops tho, that labor adds up quick.... most bodyshops underestimate and end up eating hrs...
I have WAY more respect for my bodywork abilities and knowledge than my mechanic abilities... mechanic, parts replacement and logical diagnostics, etc... bodywork? lot of variables that are out of your control, eye for color, procedures, etc....
I have WAY more respect for my bodywork abilities and knowledge than my mechanic abilities... mechanic, parts replacement and logical diagnostics, etc... bodywork? lot of variables that are out of your control, eye for color, procedures, etc....
That's why I've always thought of it as an art...way back in the 60's and some of the 70's my dad did bodywork and he was good at it....I hope some of it has rubbed off...I need all the help I can get.
The part of it that scares me is that I am a bit obsesive compulsive and somewhat a perfectionist...that could cause me to go overboard overspend and take too much time if I get hung up on fixing every little blemish...this is my first real attempt at learning bodywork...my father died in 1990 so I can't ask for his help...
if it doesn't involve airbrushed art, I can do it.... I'd guess I've squirted about 50 customs and resto's and maybe 1800 collision jobs... throw in gelling and painting boats..
I did a couple pretty cool fade jobs back in the day, actually one was a pretty trick red/orange/yellow fade job on an early 80's chevy shortbox... some pearl stuff too..
tinting paint to match is definitely challenging.. collision work pounded that lesson daily..
I did a couple pretty cool fade jobs back in the day, actually one was a pretty trick red/orange/yellow fade job on an early 80's chevy shortbox... some pearl stuff too..
tinting paint to match is definitely challenging.. collision work pounded that lesson daily..
I can get this MIG Welder right now for $169, they have it on sale for the Inside Track Club....
Will this thing do most body panel work or do you have to have the 140?
http://www.harborfreight.com/media/...ab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/m/image_3870.jpg
Will this thing do most body panel work or do you have to have the 140?
http://www.harborfreight.com/media/...ab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/m/image_3870.jpg
well, the few things I'll say are that, yes, any 110v welder will be enough to do bodywork...
a unit that can run shielding gas is generally preferred.. not that you can't do sheetmetal work with flux core wire, I've had to do it a bunch over the yrs, but IME, it's much easier with a shielded gas machine...
now, with that.. I will not testify to a HF welder being a good investment... I'd expect it not to hold up too well, usually the cheapie units have cheesy guns/liners, but it'd probably get ya thru the project...
also, I would STRONGLY suggest if you do buy that welder, do NOT run the HF mig wire they sell... it's garbage, usually "chicago electric" iirc... go to home depot and buy a spool of Lincoln wire for it...
you should edit this thread title to "Chief Brody's Bodywork 101"....... rust bullet is a distant memory in this thread now...
a unit that can run shielding gas is generally preferred.. not that you can't do sheetmetal work with flux core wire, I've had to do it a bunch over the yrs, but IME, it's much easier with a shielded gas machine...
now, with that.. I will not testify to a HF welder being a good investment... I'd expect it not to hold up too well, usually the cheapie units have cheesy guns/liners, but it'd probably get ya thru the project...
also, I would STRONGLY suggest if you do buy that welder, do NOT run the HF mig wire they sell... it's garbage, usually "chicago electric" iirc... go to home depot and buy a spool of Lincoln wire for it...
you should edit this thread title to "Chief Brody's Bodywork 101"....... rust bullet is a distant memory in this thread now...
I didn't post the link to the welder specs...it says you can add sheilding gas...don't know how much it cost to add the extra components...
http://www.harborfreight.com/weldin...0-amp-230-volt-mig-and-flux-welder-97503.html
http://www.harborfreight.com/weldin...0-amp-230-volt-mig-and-flux-welder-97503.html
euzoa
1/2 ton status
you should edit this thread title to "Chief Brody's Bodywork 101"....... rust bullet is a distant memory in this thread now...
Following this I'm pretty sure rusty bullet became the project name at some point. Lots of great info though
on paper that welder looks pretty decent. But its not a 110, its a 220 volt.
I didn't see that...thanks for pointing that out...I don't have a 220 plug unless my generator has one....
Tail Pan
Today is a washout as it has rained all day long...but If you don't mind the detour from the top rail, here is some trouble with my tail pan / floor bed
I am really thinking that my Blazer was originally hit in the left rear or backed into something...and the quarter panel was removed and possibly replaced by one out of a parts yard. I can tell that the quarter panel has be off before....
Anyway here are the pics of the trouble area...it appears that the bed pan is welded to the bottom of the C post and that it has seperated from the tail pan.
Today is a washout as it has rained all day long...but If you don't mind the detour from the top rail, here is some trouble with my tail pan / floor bed
I am really thinking that my Blazer was originally hit in the left rear or backed into something...and the quarter panel was removed and possibly replaced by one out of a parts yard. I can tell that the quarter panel has be off before....
Anyway here are the pics of the trouble area...it appears that the bed pan is welded to the bottom of the C post and that it has seperated from the tail pan.
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