oh, don't forget to get the wiring and cable hangers first...
CK5
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Ryoken's Guide to Rust Treatment and Bodywork 101
- Thread starter Chief Brody
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- ryoken green
Gaming fish ehh? Bite through this piano wire? Don't tell me my business again...
~Capt. Quint
I went and got lumber at the big box today and a hand truck and saw horsesand a movers blanket...it took me all day to do that and assenmble the saw horses...now I don't have time to get started on the tail pan today....
I did manage to lay down a coat of Rage Gold yesterday, which when I looked at it today I realized that I went way thick....
I did manage to lay down a coat of Rage Gold yesterday, which when I looked at it today I realized that I went way thick....
eh, you pay the price in sanding labor.. that'll learn ya! eh, better too much then too little....
I hope my inline sander will work on my compressor...it doesn't move like a machine gun...it sounds more like a golf cart....
I been meaning to ask...does it matter if I am running 1/4" or 3/8" hose on my little compressor?
eh, probably, especially with that tool,...... i've never used 1/4".. every shop i've been in is 3/8... one shop yrs ago had 1/2"...
I bought everything 3/8"...
just wondered if that was taxing the compressor more
just wondered if that was taxing the compressor more
just limiting the tool, not working the compressor more....
Wait till you see how thick the layer of filler is on top of the rail....I was determined to make sure I had enough in the batch...it's as thick as 2 slices of deli-style cheese....
did you knock down those high spots?
it's ok, without proper tools for a pre-cut, you'll have Ahnald arms and have learned your lesson.. spreads on real easy, sands off much harder...
it's ok, without proper tools for a pre-cut, you'll have Ahnald arms and have learned your lesson.. spreads on real easy, sands off much harder...
did you knock down those high spots?
I did knock them down with a ball peen hammer....they were ridiculously thin in spots...almost like aluminum foil...I may have bowed them up when I sandblasted...that was an area that required some intense blasting...
Put out the Beaches Closed signs, call the Mayor and get me Dave Axelrod in New York and tell him he owes me a favor!
I made some progress after a full day...I sanded off the thick layer of Rage Gold, I block sanded it until my arms nearly fell off...
Then I applied more to the inside edge and to a couple of small patches on top....let her dry, block sanded again...hit it with 80 grit on the inline, then 220 by hand.
After I got through I spritzed Ryoken Green primer on the bare metal areas...I waited and sanded that with 220 by hand....then sprayed on some light gray regular primer.
In the pictures I am using a flash and the gray primer is wet...it was getting dark so I didn't get a picture of it dry.
The only place I can see the feathering through the primer is on the very back end where I didn't give it enough attention....I darkened the picture so you can see it.
THe primer finally dryed and it is rough as sandpaper from the overspray....
I made some progress after a full day...I sanded off the thick layer of Rage Gold, I block sanded it until my arms nearly fell off...
Then I applied more to the inside edge and to a couple of small patches on top....let her dry, block sanded again...hit it with 80 grit on the inline, then 220 by hand.
After I got through I spritzed Ryoken Green primer on the bare metal areas...I waited and sanded that with 220 by hand....then sprayed on some light gray regular primer.
In the pictures I am using a flash and the gray primer is wet...it was getting dark so I didn't get a picture of it dry.
The only place I can see the feathering through the primer is on the very back end where I didn't give it enough attention....I darkened the picture so you can see it.
THe primer finally dryed and it is rough as sandpaper from the overspray....
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continued
more
that's a common spot..
being that it came out with overspray on it, and I'm guessing you have a fair amount of sandscratches, etc I would suggest letting it dry well, then take some 180 to 220 dry to it.. knock all that overspray off try to sand pretty thoroughly, but the second it goes thru the primer anywhere, move on... once you get a cut to the majority of it, scuff it with a maroon scuff pad to knock any shine down.. blow it off, damp towel/dry towel with paper towels and denatured alcohol... reprime... if it's laying on nice, get a few good heavy coats on...
a suggestion to avoid overspray.. always do your top, horizontal surfaces last... what kinda primer are you using? really shouldn't be having an issue with dry spray, which is really what that is probably, not so much overspray, with a section that small...
when you get a nice prime coat on it, as it dries, look for your minor imperfections, scratches, low spots, etc.. once the primer sets up decent, 8 hrs or so usually, take a rubber squeggie and put glazing putty on the prob areas.. let dry.. wet 220 with a block.. reprime..
now.. on to more tragic beach news....
the rest of the truck... I would STRONGLY suggest you plan a pretty heavy cut whereever there is paint.... really, you wanna be at least to the factory original paint, with maybe a hint here and there of they're yellowish fill primer... you can leave they're bodywork areas if it's holding up, just prime over it...
btw, that blue to the left in your bottom pic, appears to be glazing putty from the prior job...
keep in mind... there comes a point where battling getting a decent featheredge, in minimum areas, becomes not time effective and your better off just stripping it right off the bat... easier to just wail with some 80 on a DA, as opposed to a controlled cut 180..
but if you decide to take the "just strip the last job off" approach, I would just sand the heck out of the truck with some 150 to 180.. it's a good cut for primer to stick to on existing paint, etc...
being that it came out with overspray on it, and I'm guessing you have a fair amount of sandscratches, etc I would suggest letting it dry well, then take some 180 to 220 dry to it.. knock all that overspray off try to sand pretty thoroughly, but the second it goes thru the primer anywhere, move on... once you get a cut to the majority of it, scuff it with a maroon scuff pad to knock any shine down.. blow it off, damp towel/dry towel with paper towels and denatured alcohol... reprime... if it's laying on nice, get a few good heavy coats on...
a suggestion to avoid overspray.. always do your top, horizontal surfaces last... what kinda primer are you using? really shouldn't be having an issue with dry spray, which is really what that is probably, not so much overspray, with a section that small...
when you get a nice prime coat on it, as it dries, look for your minor imperfections, scratches, low spots, etc.. once the primer sets up decent, 8 hrs or so usually, take a rubber squeggie and put glazing putty on the prob areas.. let dry.. wet 220 with a block.. reprime..
now.. on to more tragic beach news....
the rest of the truck... I would STRONGLY suggest you plan a pretty heavy cut whereever there is paint.... really, you wanna be at least to the factory original paint, with maybe a hint here and there of they're yellowish fill primer... you can leave they're bodywork areas if it's holding up, just prime over it...
btw, that blue to the left in your bottom pic, appears to be glazing putty from the prior job...
keep in mind... there comes a point where battling getting a decent featheredge, in minimum areas, becomes not time effective and your better off just stripping it right off the bat... easier to just wail with some 80 on a DA, as opposed to a controlled cut 180..
but if you decide to take the "just strip the last job off" approach, I would just sand the heck out of the truck with some 150 to 180.. it's a good cut for primer to stick to on existing paint, etc...
The wind was blowing hard when I was spraying the primer...it was coming out of the can sideways...
and the holes at the top of the rail where the bolts for the top go in...that is very very difficult to get right...I got a small dremel tool and it just barely cuts it...I may try a bit in the die grinder...if I can't get them precise I may just find some flat rubber plugs of some kind and just push them in there and cover the holes...I don't really intend to ever put the top back on, but I want the holes there in case I do.
and the holes at the top of the rail where the bolts for the top go in...that is very very difficult to get right...I got a small dremel tool and it just barely cuts it...I may try a bit in the die grinder...if I can't get them precise I may just find some flat rubber plugs of some kind and just push them in there and cover the holes...I don't really intend to ever put the top back on, but I want the holes there in case I do.
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just run a tap, or better yet a thread chaser down thru em.. it'll blow any filler right out of the way...
What kind of primer do you recommend for these final coats? Is self etching primer ok or maybe high build?
I tried rubbing alcohol today and it left stuff behind...had to sand it again after using the alcohol...not sure where you get denatured alcohol on the weekend...
Once again, I can't thank you enough for all your help and advice on this...
I don't feel like I am done with this just yet either...at least not until I see it through and it has primer and I don't see anything showing through...probably have some more questions about sanding as I move to sanding down the entire panel.
I tried rubbing alcohol today and it left stuff behind...had to sand it again after using the alcohol...not sure where you get denatured alcohol on the weekend...
Once again, I can't thank you enough for all your help and advice on this...
I don't feel like I am done with this just yet either...at least not until I see it through and it has primer and I don't see anything showing through...probably have some more questions about sanding as I move to sanding down the entire panel.
it's not the threaded part that is the problem...the holes are drilled out oblong....like a hockey rink or a medicine capsule...that allows the inner threaded part to have movement and adjustment front to back if it needs it.
Your idea about the earplugs worked great to keep the filler out of the threads!
you want a high build..
"self etching" has no biz on anything but raw steel and you already have that covered.. be VERY leary of the overhyped term self etching these days... ANY priming over existing materials "etch" is controlled by the grit...
and no, not rubbing alcohol, denatured.. almost any hardware stores, homo depot, etc will carry it in qrts or gallons...
any filler trapped around the caged nut should pop out pretty easily.. should be very thin at the sheetmetal edge... put a long bolt in the nut and wiggle it around, should break free the chunks... a pick, awl, flatblade should pop them out.. just resand the hockey ring holes when done...
"self etching" has no biz on anything but raw steel and you already have that covered.. be VERY leary of the overhyped term self etching these days... ANY priming over existing materials "etch" is controlled by the grit...
and no, not rubbing alcohol, denatured.. almost any hardware stores, homo depot, etc will carry it in qrts or gallons...
any filler trapped around the caged nut should pop out pretty easily.. should be very thin at the sheetmetal edge... put a long bolt in the nut and wiggle it around, should break free the chunks... a pick, awl, flatblade should pop them out.. just resand the hockey ring holes when done...
