Can you give me a good estimation of how much base and clearcoat I will need to paint the whole truck? I am still thinking about spraying the inside myself, but in order to make sure the paint matches I may want to buy it all at once?
CK5
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Ryoken's Guide to Rust Treatment and Bodywork 101
- Thread starter Chief Brody
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- ryoken green
always.. it's absolutely the best way to go.. I always like to have 2 gallons of base for a full job like that.. ya usually end up with a bit left for future work, etc... but 6 qrts 'd prolly get ya by... gallon of clear'd prolly do ya.. but you can always get more if needed.. color is the important one...
also, you may wanna ask what variations are listed for that code... most paint systems break it down by which plant it came from... you'll want the standard formula, but it's good to know how many variations there are...
what manny paint are you buying?
also, you may wanna ask what variations are listed for that code... most paint systems break it down by which plant it came from... you'll want the standard formula, but it's good to know how many variations there are...
what manny paint are you buying?
The only place I could find the correct paint was at a place here called Moore's Auto Paint...I am not sure if it will be the same but the spray can they put it in for me says it is DuPont FUL-THANE URETHANE SS 5500 IB
527 General Motors Yellow Gold
I'm not sure if I buy paint for a pressure sprayer if it will be the same kind?
I'm not familiar with that series # or name... does it say chromabase anywhere?
and did you clear over it? does it go on crappy looking like lacquer out of the rattlecan, or shiney?
they can tell what variation it is by the VIN #....
and did you clear over it? does it go on crappy looking like lacquer out of the rattlecan, or shiney?
they can tell what variation it is by the VIN #....
Pookster
1/2 ton status
Does paint go bad? I have two cans of DBU I color matched to my truck years back.. maybe 9 years ago.
No, it doesn't say chromabase anwhere on the can,,,yes I clear coated over it and I think it looks pretty flat best I remember...I don't remember it being shiny on its own...it needed the clear coat to look glossy...
that must be the line they are using for the aerosol's... i'd bet the tint is chromabase...
I'm gonna guess in gallon form, it'll run ya about $200... my copper is almost 400 a gallon these days...
I'm gonna guess in gallon form, it'll run ya about $200... my copper is almost 400 a gallon these days...
depends on how well sealed they where.. usually what happens is they dry out or freeze..
if it's viscous, it can usually be saved... usually you can thin it out a bit and it'll be ok.. single stages hold up better than base..
now, boats, gelcoat? whole nother ballgame there..
My VIN will show what variation of Catalina Blue it was....won't it?
Mine was made in Flint...
came with:
Soft Ray Glass
Below eye line mirrors
3.73 RA Rear Axle
V8 350 CI
30 gallon tank
electric clock
chromed grille
H178-15B Tubeless tires
auxiliary top
Catalina Blue (DRK) / White
3 Passenger rear seat
Air Conditioner
H.D. Front Stabilizer
H.D. Brakes
Turbohydramatic Trans
Comfortilt Steering
Bright Metal Wheel
AM Push Button Radio
Custom Vinyl Trim
Cheyenne Equipment
Slate Blue Interior
Mine was made in Flint...
came with:
Soft Ray Glass
Below eye line mirrors
3.73 RA Rear Axle
V8 350 CI
30 gallon tank
electric clock
chromed grille
H178-15B Tubeless tires
auxiliary top
Catalina Blue (DRK) / White
3 Passenger rear seat
Air Conditioner
H.D. Front Stabilizer
H.D. Brakes
Turbohydramatic Trans
Comfortilt Steering
Bright Metal Wheel
AM Push Button Radio
Custom Vinyl Trim
Cheyenne Equipment
Slate Blue Interior
is there an echo? 
all you need to know is what month/yr of manufacture was, and that it was Flint... his formula microfiche will say whether it has any variations... you wont find that info out anywhere but in paint manufacturers tint mixing systems... cuz each variation has a difference in the tints used, or the weight of each when your weighing out the paint..
that yr may not be bad... it may list just a standard, maybe a couple other variations... late 70's thru late 80's is when they got crazy with that stuff....
80's Chrysler Ice Blue.. worst color eva.... 13 freakin variations... WTF....
all you need to know is what month/yr of manufacture was, and that it was Flint... his formula microfiche will say whether it has any variations... you wont find that info out anywhere but in paint manufacturers tint mixing systems... cuz each variation has a difference in the tints used, or the weight of each when your weighing out the paint..
that yr may not be bad... it may list just a standard, maybe a couple other variations... late 70's thru late 80's is when they got crazy with that stuff....
80's Chrysler Ice Blue.. worst color eva.... 13 freakin variations... WTF....
When I have the hood, fenders and doors and tailgate off might be as good time as any to replace the body mount bushings (just thinking that it will be lighter)
Do you know how many there are on a 1974 and can you lift the body with a floor jack to do this?
Do you know how many there are on a 1974 and can you lift the body with a floor jack to do this?
yeah, you do one side at a time... usually best to have 2 jacks.. disconnect one side... loosen the other side.. lift disconnected side, replace, but bolts in loose, let down.. now disconnect the other side, rinse, repeat...
just check lmc for what your rig has mount wise...
just check lmc for what your rig has mount wise...
oh.. and if your just pulling the fenders and leaving the support.. your better off just leaving all the sheetmetal on when ya do it.. if your pulling the core support, it doesn't matter as much...
I called the paint store. They said that it was a NASON base and that it should be used with ChromaClear.
Color = $122/Gal and the Chromaclear = $227/Gal
They said that if I wanted they could call DuPont and try to cross to get Chromabase or if I wanted single stage they can get it in Imron
or they could colormatch from what I have already painted.
Color = $122/Gal and the Chromaclear = $227/Gal
They said that if I wanted they could call DuPont and try to cross to get Chromabase or if I wanted single stage they can get it in Imron
or they could colormatch from what I have already painted.
Pookster
1/2 ton status
depends on how well sealed they where.. usually what happens is they dry out or freeze..
if it's viscous, it can usually be saved... usually you can thin it out a bit and it'll be ok.. single stages hold up better than base..
now, boats, gelcoat? whole nother ballgame there..
Lol. Ya, the two quarts, never opened. So the seal is good, and its sitll liquidy inside. I guess I should bring it by home depot and put it on their shaker.
definitely throw it on a shaker for awhile...
base/clear is easier for beginners... yeah, ok, Nason's the economy line... not horrible and priced right...
thats the primer i use nason2k urethane.....
utherjorge
1/2 ton status
Gallon of Rust Bullet just came in the mail today and quart of Blackshell came with it.
Going to do the frame of the '92 bench seat going in my K and the tailgate with both: two coats of RB and one (to start?) of Black Shell.
Any last words?
Wish me luck!
Going to do the frame of the '92 bench seat going in my K and the tailgate with both: two coats of RB and one (to start?) of Black Shell.
Any last words?
Wish me luck!
don't get any on your hootus....
but will it look as good and be durable? Should I just go to the effort to get the chromabase?
