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Ryoken's Guide to Rust Treatment and Bodywork 101

you'll be fine on the Nason base... base doesn't matter so much, as long as it covers reasonably well and lays out good... in modern times, I've only used their chromabase for basecoat.... if you want it to be tough and durable, run Imron clear over the base, as opposed to chromaclear...

technically, dupont says your not supposed to, but my paint supplier and I have been doing it for nearly 20 yrs now... much more durable clear than the chroma.......
 
oh, and just a little refinishing history here for ya... other than big pushes for water-based stuff in the last couple yrs, the base/clear/paint products have come a long way in the last 15, 20 yrs...

paints are SO much more user-friendly any more... back in the 80's before they really had such a thing as basecoat/clearcoat, we had to convert enamels to be used as base/clear.. what a freakin nightmare that was.. :whistle: for yrs people where burning up old dupont centari enamel stock by putting converter in it and spraying it like base.. god that sh*t sucked... :haha:

and just prior to that was the whole era of single stage metallic enamels.. and urethanes... true test of a painter there.. if you can survive that bodyshop stress nightmare, you can survive any! :pimp:
 
I tried to get HF to sell me their 60 gal 2-stage air compressor for 20% off but they wouldn't....I'm going to have to get one to paint the interior...I'll have plenty of questions when that time comes....but I do have a question that gnawing at me now...do you always have to cut paint with some kind of solvent or do you ever just pour it straight out of the can and spray?
 
your simple questions sometimes require lengthy explanations.. ;)


it's a bit of a tricky question.. spraying paint is a combination of viscosity, resin-base, gun specs and technique...

that being said... basecoat never gets more than a splash of reducer, if any... it's thin enough as is usually...

most catalyzed products, single stage, clear, primers and such are reduced to varying degrees with their catalyst... then most will get 5% to 20" actual reducer.. what exact amount that is, is based on that top 4 criteria i mentioned...

but there are exceptions to those 2 on numerous occasions.. any urethane, as opposed to a poly will usually be a 3 part paint to 1 part activator.. some have reducers, some don't perfect example is Imron... it is a 3 to 1 that does not require reducer... it's in the paint already...

in laymens terms.. most standard spray gun setups, whether a 1.3 or 1.8 gun, generally like a poorman's viscosity test of about 5 to 8 seconds...

what that means is, you stir the paint with a wooden paint stick, pull it out of the paint, and count... if it pretty much stops dripping in the 5 to 6 second range, it's relatively thin... it's a little easier for beginners to spray like this..

if it's dripping at 8, 9, thats a little on the thick side.. there are circumstances where this is desirable.. primers for one.. then some varying spray techniques incorporated with single stages and clear, if your trying to achieve a certain finish..

thats really more of a collision shop thing.. matching finishes from varying manufacturers.. they ALL have different orangepeel, etc..

so.. in closing... :whistle: wooden paint sticks are your friend... :pimp1:
 
This Imron...clearcoat...what's the deal with it? Does it look normal when you spray it on or do you give up clarity for durability? The Paint Shop guy said today that they use it for commercial applications....

how hard is it to colorsand?
 
good.. I was hoping it wouldn't be hull planks from the Orca... :whistle:
 
I tried to get HF to sell me their 60 gal 2-stage air compressor for 20% off but they wouldn't....I'm going to have to get one to paint the interior...I'll have plenty of questions when that time comes....but I do have a question that gnawing at me now...do you always have to cut paint with some kind of solvent or do you ever just pour it straight out of the can and spray?


You don't get the 20% off coupons from HF?
 
good.. I was hoping it wouldn't be hull planks from the Orca... :whistle:

Funny you should mention that....they are just about to release a great coffee table book called "Martha's Vineyard Remembers Jaws" and the special collector's edition has a piece of the Orca's hull included...:woot:
 
This Imron...clearcoat...what's the deal with it? Does it look normal when you spray it on or do you give up clarity for durability? The Paint Shop guy said today that they use it for commercial applications....

how hard is it to colorsand?

perfectly clear... it's a high solids urethane...

color sanding isn't really the right term with base/clear.. but the Imron is certainly buffable.. not quite as "user-friendly" as the Chroma as far as the sanding/buffing goes, but not a big deal... i have a few tricks to ease the pain... chroma is a production product, so easy sanding/buffing is important..

wet sanding paint jobs is an art form.... lot of tricks... I'll end up writing pages of tech on that when the time comes.. :doah: :haha:
 
for the record.. that's what my truck is on the exterior... Chromabase Convoy Gold with Imron clear...
 
When I painted my glovebox lid I used SEM Proclear and it is soft...doesn't take anything to scuff it...sounds like the Imron will be perfect for the interior where things are easily scuffed


DSC_00070002.JPG
 
Funny you should mention that....they are just about to release a great coffee table book called "Martha's Vineyard Remembers Jaws" and the special collector's edition has a piece of the Orca's hull included...:woot:

the scary thing for me is, I've worked on quite a few boats that are VERY similar to the Orca.. not so much anymore, but my last marina I worked on TONS of woodhulled, dizzle boats like that.. no crows nest tho! :haha:
 
When I painted my glovebox lid I used SEM Proclear and it is soft...doesn't take anything to scuff it...sounds like the Imron will be perfect for the interior where things are easily scuffed


my official, word of warning........





































IMRON IS VERY HARMFUL! WEAR A PROPER RESPIRATOR!






 
the scary thing for me is, I've worked on quite a few boats that are VERY similar to the Orca.. not so much anymore, but my last marina I worked on TONS of woodhulled, dizzle boats like that.. no crows nest tho! :haha:

You do know that boat was "modified" a lot...probably including the crows nest....I know that they made the cabin bigger and put glass panes in so you see into it and to let light in for filming...they say it was a terrible boat when they bought it back then...it looked fine to me...

I got one:

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