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Ryoken's Guide to Rust Treatment and Bodywork 101

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actually, I lied, I did work on a couple with similar crows nests... one had twin Detroit 4-71's in it... but the Orca be a single screw....
 
What is a "proper" mask for Imron...looks like that stuff will kill you or severely impair your nervous system:eek1:
 
you start to suck the mask to your face when breathing....and/or smell a wif of paint.
Make sure it fits your face good, use a cigarette or something similar and move it around the mask sealing surface to see how well it seals to your face.
I like the round Organic vapor North masks, as they fit my fat face better...

.

Just make sure you have good ventilation too, or it'll burn your eyes...:whistle:

And if its creating a lot of moisture in your mask, wipe your chin from time to time as it will drip out of the blow hole.
 
I ordered one of each kind of mask...I didn't read the package my first mask came in...I thought it was permanent, not a throwaway I was wondering why it seemed to get harder to breathe...:haha:
 
ryoken said:
I just realized that's one no one's ever asked me about.. getting rid of the weld seam in the curved portion of the firewall.... welded up and ground smooth.. really gave it such a cleaner look than that factory seam they all have....
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Whoa... This is CK5 porn!!!! Some much great info in this thread, you have me all excited (pun intended) to do the remaining bodywork on mine myself... Thanks for all the great info, that firewall is a work of art!!!
 
actually they have replacement filter cartridges on them, so don't throw em away.
Do you have a "Safety Services" co. dealer in your area?
 
smier said:
Whoa... This is CK5 porn!!!! Some much great info in this thread, you have me all excited (pun intended) to do the remaining bodywork on mine myself... Thanks for all the great info, that firewall is a work of art!!!
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thanks man, appreciate that a bunch... :D

this thread has turned into quite the little bodyshop tech page... I've dropped a bunch a stuff in here that most people wont ever have the chance to learn...

what's stupid is the amount that hasn't been covered yet.... :doah: :haha:
 
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ryoken said:
thanks man, appreciate that a bunch... :D

this thread has turned into quite the little bodyshop tech page... I've dropped a bunch a stuff in here that most people wont ever have the chance to learn...

what's stupid is the amount that hasn't been covered yet.... :doah: :haha:
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Don't quit now! You're on a roll! This has been a very interesting thread.
 
but how do you know when "the organic vapor cartridges" are spent?
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When you die.........


Thank God, I have found the end of this thread........I kept seeing it, but never read any of it.
Wanted to tell you something, don't remember what now, so I figured I would post it here.
Started reading, it was like a damn soap opera. I just couldn't stop.
I have been an hour on this thing.

I had several suggestions along the way, but the time to make them passed.

This one stuck. Budget yourself a welder. Trust me, if you are going to keep doing this kind of stuff, you need one bad.

If you own where you live, its not usually hard to get 220 out to the shop. Find a decent MIG setup with gas.
The flux core wire is OK, but its not MIG without gas, and for some things it makes all the difference in the world.
Before you do, find someone with one of the old LincArc buzz boxes and offer him some electrodes or beer to let you use it.
Buy a good quality self-darkening helmet, gloves, and a UV proof shirt.

Haul some various thicknesses of steel over to his place and just go to town.
Let him show you how to strike the arc, and what a good arc sounds like.
Any good book will tell you what else you might need to know about preheating, penetration, things like that.
But, once you can start an arc and hear that sound, the rest is practice.

And a stick welder is the best thing to practice with. It will teach you bead speed, amperage vs metal thickness vs electrode size and how to go back and fill in a blown out place.

Then, when you start on MIG, you will be amazed how easy it is.
 
ryoken said:
what's stupid is the amount that hasn't been covered yet.... :doah: :haha:
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Don't worry...I have more questions....3 tons of 'em....not like going down to the pond and catchin' bluegills or tommycotts....these questions...swallow you whole...:haha:
 
I took the tailgate apart today, getting it ready to sandblast. I haven't put filler in the floorboard yet because I am waiting to get the bed inside sandblasted.
I don't know if I will ever get the tailgate put back together right....

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Do you paint the white stripe last....or first?
 
Also, not sure what this piece is called...I can't find it on LMC...may be a gravel pan:

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I think LMC does sell that part, it's just a fill plate and your's looks pretty decent. The tailgate can be a bit finicky, mostly getting the glass guides on the sides lined up good.

Rene
 
the white is done second.. or... it can be color blue, color white, clear if done in base.. or color blue/clear, color white/clear...
 
oh, and those panels are referred to as a header panel...
 
You'll get'er back. Don't worry. Not with the experts on this forum.

One thing, replace every plastic and worn part in the latch mechanism. If its got those little plastic clips, they are a pain to put back on after its back together if they break.
 
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