Chief - What are you using to locate the spot welds on the quarters by the drivers door? Thanks for the pics with the bolts and welds. Most helpful.
CK5
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Ryoken's Guide to Rust Treatment and Bodywork 101
- Thread starter Chief Brody
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- ryoken green
Speaking of knocking the rust off and restoration....I am giddy over this
http://www.jawsonbluray.com/index.php
Finally....after all these years...a restoration...I don't even have 5.1 but now I gotta find out about 7.1....
Been eyeballing this too. I've got a serious blu ray problem...
I can't wait for the Indiana Jones set too.
Trucks looking good chief. If you weren't balls-deep before, you sure are now! Making great progress though man, keep it up
Those are easy to see...little shallow "dimples" very visible...unlike the floor over the tailpan...can barely see them...
Doc says I got a torn Rotator Cuff.....I can only figure that all that chum ladeling and setting out chum markers did it....either that, or when I nearly slipped off the side of the boat...
Anyway...decisions, decisions....down time is at least 6 weeks, not sure how long after that that you could do any wrenching...
My initial reaction is to double down and finish the Blazer sooner and then have the surgery...
Anyway...decisions, decisions....down time is at least 6 weeks, not sure how long after that that you could do any wrenching...
My initial reaction is to double down and finish the Blazer sooner and then have the surgery...
I'm with the latter choice...I have a torn rotator also, with some old age arthritis thrown in for good measure...try a physical therapist for a few ideas, or even do some internet dr'ing and get by til you get your project done...I've been living with mine this way for over a year now...
So theraband exercises helped my pain be more manageable without drugs...check a search on that.
here ya go:
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=theraband%20exercises%20for%20shoulder%20pain&source=web&cd=1&ved=0CDwQFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.performanceorthopedics.com%2Ffiles%2FProcProtocols%2FShoulderTheraband.pdf&ei=0B6fT-eyBqKK6QHBqMXvDg&usg=AFQjCNHOxvIzJoGoFlgg-MU9P2H-Qda-7Q
So theraband exercises helped my pain be more manageable without drugs...check a search on that.
here ya go:
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=theraband%20exercises%20for%20shoulder%20pain&source=web&cd=1&ved=0CDwQFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.performanceorthopedics.com%2Ffiles%2FProcProtocols%2FShoulderTheraband.pdf&ei=0B6fT-eyBqKK6QHBqMXvDg&usg=AFQjCNHOxvIzJoGoFlgg-MU9P2H-Qda-7Q
Thanks, I would ask Ryoken, but something tells me his remedy would involve bead blasters, cheese graters, epoxy, fiberglass mesh, 2 stage glues, trickle chargers...etc...
Depending on the damage, a torn rotator cuff will heal. Eventually.......
A bad, or complete tear is more likely to need an operation than a partial. Unless you fell on your outstretched arm, or really did a number on the cuff some other way, be very leery of a doctor that wants to cut right away.
Behavior modification, NASIDs, and other treatments are often all that is needed. Many times it goes undiagnosed.
I tore mine years ago, never even knew what was wrong. Just knew my shoulder hurt and I had problems doing certain things and sleeping in certain positions.
Took about 4 months for it to heal.
A bad, or complete tear is more likely to need an operation than a partial. Unless you fell on your outstretched arm, or really did a number on the cuff some other way, be very leery of a doctor that wants to cut right away.
Behavior modification, NASIDs, and other treatments are often all that is needed. Many times it goes undiagnosed.
I tore mine years ago, never even knew what was wrong. Just knew my shoulder hurt and I had problems doing certain things and sleeping in certain positions.
Took about 4 months for it to heal.
Doc said this would not heal on its own...it's less dramatic than setting out chum markers, but I did it when I slipped and fell in a parking lot in a huge downpour...the asphalt was oily and both feet went up and I landed on my arm stretched out and behind me. I thought I broke it, it felt like it at the time but it hurt in my lower arm and hand...never occurred to me until I went to the Doc that the fall did it...that was almost two years ago...every movement that I do working on the Blazer aggravates it...ratcheting and sanding...repetitive motions...
He said there was bone spurs as well in there...said it will only get worse with age...he wasn't in a hurry to cut, he said take your time...let me know when you can't stand it anymore. It's arthroscopic...out the same same day...problem is you are in a sling and can't use the arm...very easy to re-tear it until it heals fully.
Chief - Hope you feel better soon. Take it easy I know you want to finish the Blazer and so do all of us following the progress. I don't want to see you get hurt.
Hoping for good weather this weekend...those quarters are going on even if they are just bolted on...hope to get them permanently attached...that may be too much to hope for...
Got to thinking....while the quarters are off if I took the tubs off I could get to the floor from the sides...might be the best time to scratch up and prime the floor?
My sandblaster valve blew a little plug thing out the side....I glad it didn't blow up in my hand...but it blew when I was 80% through....
Yep, I know that's a little more than a p!ss coat of Ryoken Green, but after the crap I went through today I was determined to get full coverage.
I used an acid brush and soaked those seams with rust converter and let it dry a few hours...I know it's supposed to be 24 hours, but it was dry....and it is inside the hidden area...
Yep, I know that's a little more than a p!ss coat of Ryoken Green, but after the crap I went through today I was determined to get full coverage.
I used an acid brush and soaked those seams with rust converter and let it dry a few hours...I know it's supposed to be 24 hours, but it was dry....and it is inside the hidden area...
your a hard working young man.... me too.. 
your a hard working young man.... me too..
I have seen! I wish I could go as fast as you do...
The other side is the same, I just didn't take photos of it...I was so freakin dirty with sand and rust in every orifice that I just didn't feel like grabbing the camera.
I also got the bed floor fillet welds from the old panel ground down and the spot weld holes cleaned up. I also ground down the spot weld places inside the door jamb...they are low and smooth now.
I dropped my paint gun and bent the heck out of the cup...and I am almost out of 2K Primer again....I didn't get to spray any 2K today...
What do you think about me just sanding the bed floor with 80 grit and then spraying it with 2K Filler Primer...
I saw something today that worries me a little....I had a tool and just let it fall to the floorboard where I could get it quickly again...
when it hit the floor it caused a "flake" of 2K to let loose....maybe 180 or 220 is too fine for this Nason 2k Filler Primer to grip???
Or did I do something else wrong in the hardner or maybe put it on too thick?
I saw something today that worries me a little....I had a tool and just let it fall to the floorboard where I could get it quickly again...
when it hit the floor it caused a "flake" of 2K to let loose....maybe 180 or 220 is too fine for this Nason 2k Filler Primer to grip???
Or did I do something else wrong in the hardner or maybe put it on too thick?
every little thing adds up....
I've had my CC 6 days... I've got about 30 hrs in it already......
I've had my CC 6 days... I've got about 30 hrs in it already......
sand it with 180 and see how it feathers.. if it peels, you have an issue, if it feathers ok and is bonded, just spot it in..
There is one thing that is different about the floors....remember....that's where I painted on the Eastwood Rust Converter and then primed over top of it...that could be the issue?
how did you prep the converter?
