nope, not tight....
CK5
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Ryoken's Guide to Rust Treatment and Bodywork 101
- Thread starter Chief Brody
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- ryoken green
nope, not tight....
I really want to get the quarters tacked this weekend....which means I gotta get the door gaps worked out...
how far off are they when you have some of the others in?
as best I can tell the outside of the hole is just outside the other hole...kind of like a figure 8..but it's not all up/down...some are front/rear not much give that way
mnay times if you have one thats giving you an issue, you can use a line up tool/drift such as the phillips on the next hole to help shift things....
would you attribute it to possible tweaking of the existing panels due to the bent tailpan, etc?
would you attribute it to possible tweaking of the existing panels due to the bent tailpan, etc?
What do I need to focus on to be able to tack these in? I guess I need to weld and drill anything I need to do to the panels off the truck before I think about bolting them down?
I don't think so...the quarter are not fully seated into the wheel tub lip...that could be an up/down issue with the quarter panel...I have the tailpan bolts loose so it is probably a bit higher than it will actually be when I torque it down...maybe by 1.4 inch to half inch...it is just laying on those rubber block mounts...I am sure it will dig into it when I torque it.
Also...I didn't loosen the inner tub bolts...figured I had enough problems...but maybe I will have to?
yes, you'll want to preprep the panels prior.. drill holes for poorman's spotwelds, grind weld areas, etc...
I don't think so...the quarter are not fully seated into the wheel tub lip...that could be an up/down issue with the quarter panel...I have the tailpan bolts loose so it is probably a bit higher than it will actually be when I torque it down...maybe by 1.4 inch to half inch...it is just laying on those rubber block mounts...I am sure it will dig into it when I torque it.
Also...I didn't loosen the inner tub bolts...figured I had enough problems...but maybe I will have to?
I'd leave the tub bolts tight for now.... you may wanna snug up the tailpan body mount bolts to draw the tailpan down...
nah, but if you can get some primer up in between the panels that you wouldn't be able to do on the rig, it might be worth mixing up a cup and jetting some up in there prior... exterior, nah, as you learned on the doors, you'll more than likely be doing a bit of bodywork to em...
And what if no matter what I do I have funky door gaps at the rear...the quarter / jamb ?
Are you using a weld thru primer for the area you are welding?
well, we'll get to that when it's time.. just concentrate on getting the qrters, prepped, than bolted/clamped in a decent position... remember the door moves, the qrter wont...
That's what I am saying...if I can't ever get a decent looking gap with the door/quarter I may be stuck forever without tacking it into place...I need to know when to call it good and weld it...
I don't know if you saw the post about "round rod", but with low skill level should I, could I even consider round rod to make that gap look nice?
when drilling holes for the spot welds... assuming that two sheets of metal overlap, do you drill all the way past the first sheet metal into the second to create a whole or just drill out the first sheet metal?
Is that better then the spray can stuff? I don't think the weld thru primer is an etching primer.
Just the first...that's what the spot weld drill bit does for you...but if you go through you just weld up the hole
