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Ryoken's Guide to Rust Treatment and Bodywork 101
- Thread starter Chief Brody
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- ryoken green
just the first panel... the under panel should be ground clean, than a bit of weld thru primer put on the under panel... the new copper stuff from SEM does a decent job...
spotweld bits are for removing panels, thats all.. when drill for poorman's, you just use regular drills to the flange prior to install...
That's what I am saying...if I can't ever get a decent looking gap with the door/quarter I may be stuck forever without tacking it into place...I need to know when to call it good and weld it...
well getting the panel with all it's bolts in, than tightening those all in, than see where that puts your gap at... the door can move a ton to adjust, the qrter can't...
Once I get the bolts tight and the tailgate on and gaps set back there...where do I tack first?
the front jamb is your main concern, that will be your initial welding.. the only thing in the back is the fillet weld at the bottom of the C.. which can be done at any point and really wont move any once the qrter is on...
Remind me again...how thick will this Nason 2K Primer build?
will it maybe fill the shallow "waves" on the rail top, or must I use filler there?
will it maybe fill the shallow "waves" on the rail top, or must I use filler there?
i wouldn't plan on it... run the longboard with 36 over it.... find your low spots, grind the edp off the lows, skim coat the whole edge with reg filler... longboard with 36 till your raw higher spots start to show thru... finish... prime... glaze...
as I mentioned at the beginning of this thread.. do not fall into the bad habit of trying to have your later steps/products do more than they are intended for.... glaze for example is truly just for filling sandscratches and VERY minor low spots... fill primer can only be run to so many mils before it becomes prone to cracking, same as putty...
as I mentioned at the beginning of this thread.. do not fall into the bad habit of trying to have your later steps/products do more than they are intended for.... glaze for example is truly just for filling sandscratches and VERY minor low spots... fill primer can only be run to so many mils before it becomes prone to cracking, same as putty...
Thanks....I am done with interrogation now 
I think....
I want to tear into this tomorrow and hopefully make some serious progress.
It will be 98 degrees here tomorrow with a heat index of 105...it will not be fun...
I think....I want to tear into this tomorrow and hopefully make some serious progress.
It will be 98 degrees here tomorrow with a heat index of 105...it will not be fun...
y5mgisi
1 ton status
Good luck man! I feel like your half way done with the quarter panel battle!
One question I didn't think of until now, you are working on body panels and adjusting gaps, but do you have your truck on level ground, do you now if your frame is twisted up or it's perfectly level?
I did a full frame off resto on a 73, and I can tell you it wasn't easy to get things aligned but after it was doen and everything was looking perfect on flat ground, if you were on a rut or any non level ground, the gaps would change, and when I took it off road (my bro thought I was crazy taking it mudding after a $6k body paint job) I pinched my arm on the door gap because I had my arm on there and the gap opened up then closed and pinched my arm.
I did a full frame off resto on a 73, and I can tell you it wasn't easy to get things aligned but after it was doen and everything was looking perfect on flat ground, if you were on a rut or any non level ground, the gaps would change, and when I took it off road (my bro thought I was crazy taking it mudding after a $6k body paint job) I pinched my arm on the door gap because I had my arm on there and the gap opened up then closed and pinched my arm.
Chief - What type of gun are you using to put down the 2k urethane filling primer?
Also I picked up a spot weld drill bit from harbor freight. When you drilled out your spot welds did the pilot pin punch thru the both sheets of metal?
Also I picked up a spot weld drill bit from harbor freight. When you drilled out your spot welds did the pilot pin punch thru the both sheets of metal?
Chief - Is this the primer you are using? 2k Urethane Primer dupont nason
http://www.johnsonautobodysupply.com/Urethane-Primer-(Gallon).html
http://www.johnsonautobodysupply.com/Urethane-Primer-(Gallon).html
my driveway is very unlevel...I don't have anywhere to park it where I can get to it where it is level
that is it...but I have looked everywhere and I can still get it cheaper at the local DuPont dealer...I bet you can too...don't forget the hardener / catalyst, it costs almost as much as the primer does
A DeVilbiss Startingline Primer gun with a 1.8 nozzle
no, because the pilot point retracts..it is spring loaded. You will want a nail punch or a center punch to make a starter hole for the pilot to sit in...or it will roll away on you....
I got the passenger side quarter panel on today...I will post some pics in a little while...I am bleeding all over the place right now...gashed my arm and head...
I got the passenger side quarter panel on today...I will post some pics in a little while...I am bleeding all over the place right now...gashed my arm and head...
Yikes! Be safe!! Looking forward to the pics. This is the best thread yet on CK5.
Today I went and talked with a guy who has been painting a long time out of his garage. He is into hot rods and custom work. He does not advertise so it is all by word of mouth. Any ways he says he doesn't even touch the acrylic enamel. He says the bc/cc with a urethane primer is the way to go... just like what ryoken says. He also says lacquer based primers are terrible. I mentioned the 2k urethane and he says that is a good product. For the price you get great results. It is not the most costly. At first I was thinking acrylic lacquer. Then acrylic enamel because that is what came stock. I'm now sold that this is the way to go.
1. Moeller Green Zinc Chromate on bare metal (I just picked some up from a marine store)
2. Dupont 2k Urethane high fill primer
3. BC/CC (I'm not sure on the specifics yet but it will be a Duont brand.)
He also says when he paints he just uses a charcoal filter and has no problems.
I'm debating of just having him do all the work for me. Or at least starting some of the work and having him finish it.
me knows stuff...
Today started with taking to the brace off the new quarter panel. For future reference anyone who has a 1973-1975 Blazer will have to do this step....they are not spaced right from the manufacturer.
So, I drilled the spot welds out and removed the brace. Used a flap wheel to smooth out the holes....
Took the brace over to the B Pillar and stood it up and clamped it in place.
Then I put the quarter on and scribe the line down the brace.
Took the quarter off, took the brace off the B Pillar. Then got the welder and fill all the old holes, then marked for the new hole...drilled them.
Then took my hole assortment of clamps and held the brace in place while I welded it.
After that I put the quarter on again and checked it...perfect.
So, I drilled the spot welds out and removed the brace. Used a flap wheel to smooth out the holes....
Took the brace over to the B Pillar and stood it up and clamped it in place.
Then I put the quarter on and scribe the line down the brace.
Took the quarter off, took the brace off the B Pillar. Then got the welder and fill all the old holes, then marked for the new hole...drilled them.
Then took my hole assortment of clamps and held the brace in place while I welded it.
After that I put the quarter on again and checked it...perfect.
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