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Ryoken's Guide to Rust Treatment and Bodywork 101

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I called paint shops today...NOBODY will rent a booth...everybody is telling me that because of liability they don't do it anymore.

The one shop I drove to said they wouldn't even be interested in painting it because they are full up with insurance work.

They also said that while they aren't interested they also strongly discourage me trying to paint it myself...thay said "you will ruin $1000 worth of materials in a hurry".

One of them piped up and said whatever you do don't spray Nason...it will flake off and fade in no time...

I don't believe what they told me...but it did weigh on my psyche....
 
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There were a lot of people that said that you couldn't do what you have done.....


F*ck em....


Keep it going, Chief...
 
haters_gonna_hate3.jpg
 
I've already decided that I am going to build a 16 X 24 x 10 booth in the driveway out of 2x4's.

If I figure correctly it will take:

16' 2x4 = 6
10' 2x4 = 8
8' 2x4 = 10
6' 2x4 = 3
------------
$110.00

So the frame will cost $110 but it will be screwed together with wood screws and braced so it will stand for several days before I tear it down.

I am thinking of building two identical walls for the sides that would look something like this:

Then 16' 2x4s across the top at the seam points and furring strips for plastic support.

Then an end cap that is configured for box fans (if that's safe)
another end cap configured with filters

I figure I can anchor it down with concrete blocks

booth side.jpg
 
block will usually be fine, just have some extra around in case of a windy day... plastic on the thicker side will be more durable too..
 
Ryoken have you ever done the wet floor trick? Wetting the ground under where your painting will help keep dust and overspray down but may create a humidity issue down there in bama. Although with the fans running it may not be an issue. Thoughts?
 
yup, been doing that for 30 yrs, from the resto shop to the collision shop to my house.....

if I've got the room very well prepped, sometimes I don't bother... the cleaner the room the less likely ya need to do it...

and yeah, I've never had a humidity issue, tho good point about that bama heat... as ya said, the circulating air helps with that... plus, these ain't the days of lacquer, urethanes aren't nearly as finicky about that...
 
ryoken said:
yup, been doing that for 30 yrs, from the resto shop to the collision shop to my house.....

if I've got the room very well prepped, sometimes I don't bother... the cleaner the room the less likely ya need to do it...

and yeah, I've never had a humidity issue, tho good point about that bama heat... as ya said, the circulating air helps with that... plus, these ain't the days of lacquer, urethanes aren't nearly as finicky about that...
Click to expand...

I was just reading where a guy down here built an outdoor booth and used clear plastic...the body surface was hot real quick even though the fans flowed air through...he ended up with a dry coat...
Do you think I ought to use colored material to block the IR or UV or whatever? :dunno:
 
it does magnify the sun/heat.. that's why we don't use clear shrinkwrap on the boats... white would be best...

actually white boat shrinkwrap is ideal... I don't have any pics, but I've painted quite a few boats like that over the yrs.. 2 x 4 frame, than shrinkwrap it in white... amazing how much stronger and rigid that tightened plastic makes the structure..

your gonna have to take this all into account when getting your paint... your gonna want slow speed on everything this time of year..
 
eh, the minimum you would need is a weed burner type torch on a 20 lb propane, something like this...

torch.gif






little hokey trying to do welds with that, but doable... and would do the "shrinking" portion of the job in like 10, 15 minutes... think they run like $50 to 100.. we use a Big Red...

normally you would do welds with an actual shrinkwrap gun, but they run like $400... obviously too much coin... something like this...


Wrapit2200%20cool%20nozzle%20gun.jpg







as for plastic... the best route would be to get a 16' or 20' wide by 100'... like $120.... and weld 2 pieces together.. 40' wide is what i would use, but a roll of that gets pricey...

so, you'd probably be looking at $200 to do shrinkwrap.. as opposed to maybe, $50 or so for clear sheet from Depot i would guess...
 
ryoken said:
eh, the minimum you would need is a weed burner
Click to expand...


Got one of those down the street...can't get him off the couch :haha:

at some point it seems almost just as cheap to maybe "roof" the thing with some kind of thin sheet of wood material....like luan?
 
eh, plastic vs wood.. the clear sheet is obviously the cheapest choice.. even if you luan the top, ya still need plastic for the walls.. also keep in mind that the clear depot stuff is pretty cheap iirc, thus, you could probably double it up too for additional strength..

usually i've done 2 x 4's for the main structure, than i use 1 x 3's for diagonal ties and door/fan/filter framing... oh, and about 3 boxes of staples! :haha:
 
so if I build this building...how long does the Blazer stay in it after the last clear coat?
 
Chief Brody said:
so if I build this building...how long does the Blazer stay in it after the last clear coat?
Click to expand...

you could have it out in 8 to 12 hr's.. 5 or 6 in a pinch... or you can leave it in and go right to a cut/buff in the next day or 2..... than if you had any faux pas's to fix :whistle:, your still in the booth...
 
ryoken said:
you could have it out in 8 to 12 hr's.. 5 or 6 in a pinch... or you can leave it in and go right to a cut/buff in the next day or 2..... than if you had any faux pas's to fix :whistle:, your still in the booth...
Click to expand...

let's say everything goes on ok....you can actually buff or sand in 2 days?
 
Chief Brody said:
and are box fans safe...will they ignite the fumes?
Click to expand...

well, i've done it for yrs and not blown myself up.. :pimp: is it 100% safe? probably not! :popcorn: :deal:

but if you'd like to source some sort of explosion proof motor/fan, I'd be happy to hear it.. I've bought them for a few shops.. they are expensive..

I generally put my exhaust filters prior to the fan, that way all the overspray is in the filters and not loading the fan/motor up.. and I'll usually double filter layer the exhaust, single on the intake....
 
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