Ryoken's Guide to Rust Treatment and Bodywork 101

[y5mgisi]

Looks perfect!

 

[Chief Brody]

Time to start thinking about fixing up the top...we hit 70 degrees today...guess I'll need to get some dollies and roll it out into the driveway and strip the the dry cracked seals and wash it off...see if it needs any fiberglass places that need to be fixed...and start sanding it

 

[Chief Brody]

I got my air cleaner assembly:





I got a cheap sandblaster (small) from harbor freight and blasted it and Ryoken Zinc'd it.



I got the stovepipe riser tube which I haven't blasted yet:




Now I need to know if I need to use any primer before I paint it. My guess is yes, but I don't know for sure.

 

[ryoken]

meh, you can just scuffpad it well and overcoat it.. is it AS good and durable as having a fill primer on it first? no...

but I do it all the time at work, and even some projects around here, and they hold up fine..

 

[Chief Brody]

There were a couple spots where it seemed as though oil or fuel had just leached into the metal. I used heavy duty degreaser but it still acted as though the oil was still there...I was wondering if a coat or two of primer would cover over that and give the paint something known clean to adhere to

 

[ryoken]

it bled thru the green?

 

[Chief Brody]

it bled thru the green?

not so much bled through as sort of wrinkled...looks like pencil eraser shavings sort of...I knocked them off with a scotch brite

 

[Chief Brody]

look on top of the lid, you'll see the two spots

 

[ryoken]

that would be cringing.. odd, usually you would see fisheyes from a contaminent... cringing is generally what happens when the solvent of the sprayed material softens/dissolves an undercoat and makes alligator skin.cringing...


you wiped this down with denatured?

I would denature the spots, than try recoating them with RG.. but do very light thin dry coats, letting them dry thoroughly between coats.. till covered...

 

[Chief Brody]

you wiped this down with denatured?

I would denature the spots, than try recoating them with RG.. but do very light thin dry coats, letting them dry thoroughly between coats.. till covered...

Yeah...I used denatured. Will do again and re-coat....when the snow leaves...we are at freezing today expecting 6 inches of snow and then 60 degrees and sunny next week. I will spray it next week when it hits 60.

 

[Chief Brody]

Also, on that "pivot pin" on the baffle valve...I stole it off another breather and it is too long. I need to cut it off but I need to somehow put a "wide spot" in it to hold it in place. Any ideas? I tried vice grips...no dice.

 

[ryoken]

I have no crue what you're talking about...

pic of the offending pivot pin/desired attachment deal?

 

[ryoken]

oh, ok, wait.....

 

[Chief Brody]

I have no crue what you're talking about...

pic of the offending pivot pin/desired attachment deal?

It's the thing that looks like a nail in right under the Therma-Vac...in the center of the air horn

 

[ryoken]

forge it baby! pull it out, cut to length, heat the pee out of the end, and smash it repeatedly with a hammer?

 

[Chief Brody]

forge it baby! pull it out, cut to length, heat the pee out of the end, and smash it repeatedly with a hammer?

now...there's an idea...although it really needs to be in place when flattened...maybe I can torch it and forge it while in place...

 

[Chief Brody]

somewhere I have an aircraft cable crimper...maybe I could somehow use it too...

 

[ryoken]

get it red hot and visegrip the dickens out of it multiple times..

 

[Chief Brody]

get it red hot and visegrip the dickens out of it multiple times..

will do

 

[Chief Brody]

My sandblasted and primed and painted "factory correct" air cleaner assembly. Jeez I went to a lot of trouble to get this....but I am glad I did now.