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Ryoken's Guide to Rust Treatment and Bodywork 101
- Thread starter Chief Brody
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- ryoken green
no pics but a bit of news....I went by the shop and saw my seats in the process of being stitched together...the pieces look great! If the finished product looks as good as the pieces they are going to look fantastic. It's amazing how much better the made from scratch ones look than the pre-made PUI stuff.
The pillowing is so much more pronounced and the stitching against the oem material makes it look like real leather.
I can't wait...it won't be long now. pics then
The pillowing is so much more pronounced and the stitching against the oem material makes it look like real leather.
I can't wait...it won't be long now. pics then
I really hate to have to go back and re-do something that I thought I could live with earlier, and you guys tried to help with it and point it out earlier but the hood to fender gaps are driving me crazy.
I am seriously thinking about taking the hood and fenders offagain and modifying the core support. I think that cutting the top "ears" off the core support and removing 1/4 inch of metal and welding them back on will allow the fender tops to come inward enough to close the big gaps.
I am trying to figure how to do this without messing the fenders or hood up.
Should be able to remove them very carefully and lay them on moving blankets and modify the core and re-install
I am seriously thinking about taking the hood and fenders offagain and modifying the core support. I think that cutting the top "ears" off the core support and removing 1/4 inch of metal and welding them back on will allow the fender tops to come inward enough to close the big gaps.
I am trying to figure how to do this without messing the fenders or hood up.
Should be able to remove them very carefully and lay them on moving blankets and modify the core and re-install
are they even front to back, just wide?
Yes...wide, but even.
are the fender "out" from the doors? how big are the gaps? 3/8?
narrowing the support is just gonna pinch them in at the front...
plus it may f*ck up your grill/headlight bezel mounting/fit..
narrowing the support is just gonna pinch them in at the front...
plus it may f*ck up your grill/headlight bezel mounting/fit..
There is an "ear" at the top of each side of the core support that the top front of each fender gets bolted to. Best I can tell it appears that they are a just a tad wide and the contour of the inner fender doesn't fit together tightly up there.
The bolt holes line up....the bottoms seem to go on fine.
I just got to looking at them one day trying to figure out how I could close that gap just a little. The gaps look bigger to me since it has shiny paint.
The bolt holes line up....the bottoms seem to go on fine.
I just got to looking at them one day trying to figure out how I could close that gap just a little. The gaps look bigger to me since it has shiny paint.
The fit up top in the back is even.
The bezels have some inward movement, particularly the drivers side. That was another thing I noticed...I was looking at 1974's on youtube and in the nagazines and noticed that the headlight bezels on those all came out even to the front "outer" edge of the fender. Mine has an even almost 3/16 of an inch between the bezel and the edge of the fender.
Oh...and the gap on drivers side is dang near 1/2 inch
It may be 1/2 inch...I would need to measure to be sure.
I can see the entire pinch weld flange of the fender and then some...from the side I can see down onto the inner fender well
It may be 1/2 inch...I would need to measure to be sure.
I can see the entire pinch weld flange of the fender and then some...from the side I can see down onto the inner fender well
I need to go back in this thread and find the post where pointed it out and said "that's not right" and drew an arrow to it.
There is also the fact that the hood that I fit the gaps with and that it went to the paint shop with is not the hood that it came out with. I don't think that could of made any difference much though...
The core support is shown on this post http://coloradok5.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3161194&postcount=4370
There is also the fact that the hood that I fit the gaps with and that it went to the paint shop with is not the hood that it came out with. I don't think that could of made any difference much though...
The core support is shown on this post http://coloradok5.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3161194&postcount=4370
I need to get it out into the sun and have a better look. It might be that "T" shaped panel at the top....
I certainly won't bug you with it, but I might have some specific questions if I decide to get stupid and try to fix something that may no need fixin'
I'm here..... pics help me, I'm slow.... 
back to Mutt for now...
back to Mutt for now...
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is all the sheetmetal here factory?
The hood and fenders certainly are. The core support certainly looked to be original...yeah...it's all factory...just off of 4 different vehicles
Here is the original on the first day I got it. Looks like the drivers side gap is big on it then.
it doesn't look quite even all the way... it does look a bit tighter in the back.... like it could really use to come in a touch up front.... I would drop a tape mesh near the front, than back...
but.... that support/fender attachment point is pretty set in stone...
the only thing that's coming to mind is driving the inner fender section in a tad with a block of wood in the mounting area.... and maybe squaring up the support mounting tabs with a dolly and hammer too..
but boy, doing it to finished fenders, eesh.. maybe on a folded up moving blanket or something...
I don't like the idea of sectioning a rad support...
but.... that support/fender attachment point is pretty set in stone...
the only thing that's coming to mind is driving the inner fender section in a tad with a block of wood in the mounting area.... and maybe squaring up the support mounting tabs with a dolly and hammer too..
but boy, doing it to finished fenders, eesh.. maybe on a folded up moving blanket or something...
I don't like the idea of sectioning a rad support...
I thought of that and wondered how the heck you would do that to the inner fender without damaging the outside...I don't recall how strong that inner metal is at that mount point...
it's about the same as the exterior.. but it has bends, making it stronger... the prob is, it's a lot of area that meets up with the support... you wouldn't be moving it much... whether a short 2 x 4 and heavy hammer with it laying on a blanket is gonna hurt the outside, don't know...
how tight is the other side?
how tight is the other side?
