perhaps you can get it to stick. I'd give it a try first.
CK5
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Ryoken's Guide to Rust Treatment and Bodywork 101
- Thread starter Chief Brody
- Start date
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- ryoken green
perhaps you can get it to stick. I'd give it a try first.
I wasn`t having much luck with the 3m tape either! That's why I only have one side of my truck done!
did you use this stuff?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/3M-3614-Sco...231546625900?cmd=ViewItem&hash=item35e9411f6c
you HAVE to make sure and damp towel/dry towel with denatured before applying...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/3M-3614-Sco...231546625900?cmd=ViewItem&hash=item35e9411f6c
you HAVE to make sure and damp towel/dry towel with denatured before applying...
yes, that's what I bought. I did clean it before I stuck it on...I still don't know why it didn't stay stuck...except for one thing maybe...it stretched a little when I installed it
I'll still give it a try when I get to that point, wouldn't hurt I guess.
I was also curious how you got the front hood bumpers installed. I bought new ones from LMC and can't get them to screw in. I tried them from the underside and they screwed in, so I'm not sure why I can't get them in the right way.
I was also curious how you got the front hood bumpers installed. I bought new ones from LMC and can't get them to screw in. I tried them from the underside and they screwed in, so I'm not sure why I can't get them in the right way.
Hmmm...not sure on that...I bought the ones from O'Reilley's...Dorman I think One set may be metric...the other standard?
Small HiJack here, Sorry Chief. I have read the entire thread and the Blazer turned out awesome!!
I have some surface corrosion on my Crew Cab and it's getting to the point where it needs some attention soon!
Little help Paul
I had this where the 80's paint and eventually the primer peeled off.
I pulled all the trim off when i was sanding. It was badly cracked and I wanted to make sure there wasn't rust underneath.
I did find this one area on the rear quarter with some light filler.
I used a cheapo hand sander with 220 discs and got the surface cleaned up then some primer.
It turned out ok for a piss can primer job.
Now that was over a year ago and of course the rust is starting to show through the primer again. How do I properly get this treated so I can start looking at painting it.
Sand
converter?
prime/seal
paint
Ryoken Green?
I also have one spot on my otherwise mint SWB that needs the same thing.
I have some surface corrosion on my Crew Cab and it's getting to the point where it needs some attention soon!
Little help Paul
I had this where the 80's paint and eventually the primer peeled off.
I pulled all the trim off when i was sanding. It was badly cracked and I wanted to make sure there wasn't rust underneath.
I did find this one area on the rear quarter with some light filler.
I used a cheapo hand sander with 220 discs and got the surface cleaned up then some primer.
It turned out ok for a piss can primer job.
Now that was over a year ago and of course the rust is starting to show through the primer again. How do I properly get this treated so I can start looking at painting it.
Sand
converter?
prime/seal
paint
Ryoken Green?
I also have one spot on my otherwise mint SWB that needs the same thing.
tonight......
This is the spot on my SWB. Back passenger side top of the cab.
So I've got a question concerning "Ryoken Green". Is there a difference between the green zinc chromate and the yellow zinc chromate besides the color? The reason I ask is because Moeller Marine's site has the green at $10.17 and the yellow at $8.94. They should be the same, right?
actually they have it for the same price
http://www.jamestowndistributors.co...familyName=Moeller+Zinc+Primer+Aerosol+Sprays
Green just looks right....don't know that there is a difference
http://www.jamestowndistributors.co...familyName=Moeller+Zinc+Primer+Aerosol+Sprays
Green just looks right....don't know that there is a difference
Thanks! I was looking at Moeller's site directly. Looks like it'd be cheaper to buy direct even at $10.17. The link you provided charges a hazmat fee and their shipping is over 2x what Moeller charges. hmmm
no difference chemically... I tend to think the green covers a bit better...
edit... sh*t, just realized I need to answer MT's post...
So could you guys help me figure out why this happened? I was just painting this and it started to crackle up. I had wet sanded, then cleaned, then used denatured alcohol twice. This is the only spot that did this on the whole door.
So could you guys help me figure out why this happened? I was just painting this and it started to crackle up. I had wet sanded, then cleaned, then used denatured alcohol twice. This is the only spot that did this on the whole door.
What was the temperature of the paint?
What was the temperature of the surface?
How thick were the coats?
that's a pretty severe cringe... was this evenly primed, or where there sanded featheredges here and there? and what kind of paint is that?
Paint was room temp, outside temp was mid 80s so the door was about the same temp. I completely stripped the paint off of the whole door and when I primed it last week it was even. I gave it a light wet sand then cleaned it with clear water, then alcohol. The coats were relatively thin. I got the paint from http://www.imatchpaint.com/ I've used them before and have been pleased with the paints. Since I was only doing the door I decided to do it on the cheap and get spray cans. This is the only spot I've ever had this happen on. I'm not going for show quality or anything, just wanted a decent job that looked ok.
wetsand it with 320 and see if it sands/feathers properly into the primer... re-clean.. and spot in... VERY light coats and let them flash off VERY well.. get it caught up to the rest and overcoat the whole panel..
make sure when you degrease things with denatured that you employ the damp towel/dry towel with paper towels... and make sure that the dry wad is wiping down wet areas.. it does no good to just wipe it down with a wet one and let it dry before the dry one gets to it...... well, it's not the proper way to clean a panel... with ANY product...
make sure when you degrease things with denatured that you employ the damp towel/dry towel with paper towels... and make sure that the dry wad is wiping down wet areas.. it does no good to just wipe it down with a wet one and let it dry before the dry one gets to it...... well, it's not the proper way to clean a panel... with ANY product...
Got it. How long should I let this cure before I hit it with the sand paper?
well, being an air dried product, as much time as patience allows... sh*t stays soft a notoriously long time... 8 hrs minimum, 36 to 48 would be better...
you can aid in the process with a gentle heat lamp for awhile, let cool, check.. or even easier, point a box fan at it for awhile...
you can aid in the process with a gentle heat lamp for awhile, let cool, check.. or even easier, point a box fan at it for awhile...
