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Ryoken's Guide to Rust Treatment and Bodywork 101

Overview Gallery Discussion
10 years has sort of flown by, the difference between 45 and 55 is a stark one in terms of how easily or not I can get around and get under the truck. Unfortunately it looks like the Covid beast is cranking up around hear pretty steeply again and I haven't been out working on it. I bought all the parts, pulleys, damper and a new creeper in anticipation of getting out there and getting it done. The work from home is more intense than it was before Covid and I spend more time working as well. Working projects and maintenance from home is like doing it with one hand tied behind your back.
Hope to be out working on it soon and then when it isn't 105 anymore, enjoying a drive.
 
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LVJimmy said:
I'm on page 81. I'm getting ready to do the same thing to my 71. Just wanted to let you guys know that you are still helping people after all these years.
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Cal Blazer said:
I enjoyed reading the information since it has been close to 30 years since I dealt with rust.
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just be aware fellas.... while a bunch of this is still really good bodywork minutia, zinc chromate, 2K is really no longer a viable/good option... epoxy needs to be substituted for the zinc these days, followed by the 2K...
 
mrk5 said:
Is epoxy just better stuff or more available?
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zinc chromate is no longer available.. technically you can still get a quality 2-part zinc wash, but for the average guy, it's not a viable solution, and becoming scarcer daily....

I always found it etched better than the epoxy, but epoxy is tougher and helps more with corrosion... the 2 CANNOT be used in conjunction, they do not play well together... and either should always be topcoated in 2K..... well, bodyworked sheetmetal at least, a frame you can get away with urethane right over the epoxy....
 
ryoken said:
zinc chromate is no longer available.. technically you can still get a quality 2-part zinc wash, but for the average guy, it's not a viable solution, and becoming scarcer daily....

I always found it etched better than the epoxy, but epoxy is tougher and helps more with corrosion... the 2 CANNOT be used in conjunction, they do not play well together... and either should always be topcoated in 2K..... well, bodyworked sheetmetal at least, a frame you can get away with urethane right over the epoxy....
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So you're saying that the secret to a comfortable retirement is actually hiding in my garage?

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When I heard the EPA was banning it...... there was only one thing to do.


-G
 
Hey wait...are you saying I need to do it over....use epoxy this time ;)
 
Maybe we can see if we can get a product update inserted in this thread where the Ryoken Green Zinc is first talked about and update it to say what you said about the epoxy because the availability and viability of obtaining zinc chromate primer.
 
Of course Paul needs to copyright the term "Piss Coat"....because that's all it took of Zinc Chromate, so for good measure I painted it on. If a piss coat is good a 6 mil layer has gotta be better...:eek1:
 
Chief Brody said:
Of course Paul needs to copyright the term "Piss Coat"....because that's all it took of Zinc Chromate, so for good measure I painted it on. If a piss coat is good a 6 mil layer has gotta be better...:eek1:
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Results vary by each individual based on the health of your prostate.... some coverage is thinner than others.


-G
 
it does change things procedurally a bit when you epoxy... it is done first, than bodywork, than 2K, etc....


#pisscoatFTW
 
It is weird when a thread becomes old enough to outlive a product or method...but not by choice...the government took it away. Some of you guys that were here in the year 2000 I am sure it has happened to you even more. I guess it happens all the time in manuals...thus updated editions.
 
Chief Brody said:
It is weird when a thread becomes old enough to outlive a product or method...but not by choice...the government took it away. Some of you guys that were here in the year 2000 I am sure it has happened to you even more. I guess it happens all the time in manuals...thus updated editions.
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This is where being the slowest build on CK5 really pays off...... this build is done....., @NorCal69 just got through his bodyshop/paint phase, (so he's all done too)..... but I'm still over here in bare metal working at a snail's pace!! :)

If I end up doing an epoxy / bodywork / primer process.... all you need to do is link your build over to those specific pages of the "Might As Well" build for that process variation... then send 'em right back here.


-G
 

Moeller 025472 Zinc Chromate Primer Green​


This is still available. Or is it another zinc chromate that is recommended?
 
wazzabie said:

Moeller 025472 Zinc Chromate Primer Green​


This is still available. Or is it another zinc chromate that is recommended?
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hmmm, it is still showing in a shopping search... was told they where stopping production of it.. yes, that's the rattlecan version.. not as good as a 2-part wash, but is a reasonable alternative...
 
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