So if it is really the real thing...now which way do you go? Still go epoxy if you are at the right stages of the build?
CK5
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Ryoken's Guide to Rust Treatment and Bodywork 101
- Thread starter Chief Brody
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- ryoken green
I think we already went through this a few years ago.... some sites show it, but it’s “out of stock” and ultimately you can order it but it will never ship.
OR
you order the Zinc Chromate but they substitute with Zinc Phosphate instead. Don’t know my chemistry well enough but recall the experts saying that phosphate wasn’t nearly as effective.
-G
A couple notes...
I have gotten MarPro zinc chromate from amazon a couple times in the last year.
I used it on my floor pan after repairs and sanding to bare metal. It held up well and kept the floors protected for over 10 months with no overcoat, no floor mats. Light use, errands, hunting, etc. I feel it would perform well under appropriate topcoats and will use it again on other projects.
However, I wanted to use Raptor anti-corrosive primer (epoxy) before Raptor lining the floor. Raptor technical support said it was ok to use over zinc chromate after scuffing well. By the time they replied I had already put a few drops of reducer on the floor where it almost immediately crinkled the zinc chromate. I was afraid of interaction and poor adhesion, so I sanded the floor clean. For the second time. Some hard to sand areas were wiped with a little acetone on a scotch brite or rag and the zinc chromate softened and came right up.
Hope this adds a little info for everyone. I read this entire thread a while back and the knowledge I gained has been very useful. Thanks to all who have shared!
I have gotten MarPro zinc chromate from amazon a couple times in the last year.
I used it on my floor pan after repairs and sanding to bare metal. It held up well and kept the floors protected for over 10 months with no overcoat, no floor mats. Light use, errands, hunting, etc. I feel it would perform well under appropriate topcoats and will use it again on other projects.
However, I wanted to use Raptor anti-corrosive primer (epoxy) before Raptor lining the floor. Raptor technical support said it was ok to use over zinc chromate after scuffing well. By the time they replied I had already put a few drops of reducer on the floor where it almost immediately crinkled the zinc chromate. I was afraid of interaction and poor adhesion, so I sanded the floor clean. For the second time. Some hard to sand areas were wiped with a little acetone on a scotch brite or rag and the zinc chromate softened and came right up.
Hope this adds a little info for everyone. I read this entire thread a while back and the knowledge I gained has been very useful. Thanks to all who have shared!
while i don't recommend straight topcoat over the zinc for finished sheetmetal, I've done it TONS on parts over the yrs with good success... I must have mentioned a couple dozen times in this thread not to put epoxy over zinc... bad juju... needs to be a urethane... sad the Raptor tech didn't know that.. I'm sure he was just guessing....
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11 years on and I have ordered the new gas tank, filler hose, sending unit and I will run new wire and a braid strap. Gonna fix this Fuel gauge issue once and for all.
Hopefully by the time the parts arrive, this heat wave will have broken.
Hopefully by the time the parts arrive, this heat wave will have broken.
I just got to replacing the fuel tank and sending unit last weekend. Finally the gauge is correct.
what brand tank did you get?
I got the AMD because at the time they were the only one that had the right one in stock.
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yeah a lot of the spectra stuff seem to only available in Canada. Tump import taxes ???
were is the AMD tank made?
I contacted AMD, they told me the tank is made in Taiwan.
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I was surprised that the spectra premium tank that I got for the K5 was made in Canada.
Moody Bricker
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I called them on top seals, they said that they don't have them.
pnel128
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So I was looking at the TDS for the Moeller and it said it was manufactured by Seymour, here is a link to the phosphate version https://www.seymourpaint.com/product/16-897-seymour-zinc-phosphate-primer-yellow-12-oz/
However, this one has more zinc https://www.seymourpaint.com/product/16-1445-seymour-mro-cold-galv-primer-15-oz/ not a self etch though
Alternatively, you could go with a two part PPF ZNP 300- which according to the TDS can be top coated with a urethane, though that is not the recommendation from the guys at PPG. There is also ZNP 101 that is a 1k, though it calls for an epoxy top coat. Ryoken you said earlier that was bad juju- care to elaborate in light of these that call for it? (Also, if you ask for this stuff at the local PPG auto distributors they will tell you that there is no such thing... have to go to PPG direct, which is probably just a knowledge issue.)
However, this one has more zinc https://www.seymourpaint.com/product/16-1445-seymour-mro-cold-galv-primer-15-oz/ not a self etch though
Alternatively, you could go with a two part PPF ZNP 300- which according to the TDS can be top coated with a urethane, though that is not the recommendation from the guys at PPG. There is also ZNP 101 that is a 1k, though it calls for an epoxy top coat. Ryoken you said earlier that was bad juju- care to elaborate in light of these that call for it? (Also, if you ask for this stuff at the local PPG auto distributors they will tell you that there is no such thing... have to go to PPG direct, which is probably just a knowledge issue.)
Pete Peralta
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Pictures won’t load???
Wow! 15 years since the blazer rolled off the big rig...it is hard to believe. Even harder to believe I was 45 then and I'm 60 now. I was reading through some of this thread last night and just feeling the agony of the process from my older body and in almost disbelief in how crazy it was to attempt some of that. I'd never physically be able to do most of that stuff now.
I am glad that most of the photos still remain in the thread, many reply photos were lost due to the photobucket fiasco, I went through Hell to upload all the photos that I had linked in order to save the usefulness of the thread.
Anyway, glad the forum is still here.
I am glad that most of the photos still remain in the thread, many reply photos were lost due to the photobucket fiasco, I went through Hell to upload all the photos that I had linked in order to save the usefulness of the thread.
Anyway, glad the forum is still here.
No updated pic?!?
No, not yet, the weather has to get good enough for long enough that I can push it out of the garage and do some new gasoline and prime the upper engine because it has set since last summer. I need to get a new battery and change the oil...once that is done it needs a good detailing. Ive spent more time on my Honda with 250,000 miles than I have the Blazer recently.
