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sas on 2003 2500hd

rob h

rob h

1/2 ton status
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frackville,pa
Im thinking of doing sas on my 2003 2500hd, i have some questions that i hope some can answer. First i have a 79 ford dana 60 that needs a complete rebuild also i want 8 inches of lift and no more.

The offroad direct kit without the shock towers seems like a good kit and easy...any imput on that kit or is there something better..? Another one is the transfercase, i have the push button style and is there a way to make it work or is that going to have to be changed to a floor model...?

I know ill need crossover, i seen that offroad direct sells a kit too, also the exhaust will have to be modded but i wont do it till i see whats all involved. the idea of using leafs mite not be the best idea but seems the cheapest.
 
you may want to look at a later model dodge axle. the 9.25" aam axle will work with youre current speed sensors to keep the abs happy, is pretty strong, and set up for coils. which would keep the ride nice.
you could use stock dodge arms and lift coils.

anyways, just a thought
 
Heres what i got.

im running the ORU premium ride kit that uses their springs which are like 53 and some change in length. these are actually atlas springs.

I will not use ORU again do to shoddy service and they no longer make the SYE's that they say they do.

if i were you, id run the ORD kit, then any of the crossover systems such as the ones from WFO, offroaddesign or SKY manufacturing or offroad direct will work.

Im also pretty sur ethe ORD kit can be ran with 52" springs, using that kit and running some stock 52' rears will net you around 7" of lift, 2" lift 52's would net you around 9" lift.

my truck is on around 9" and i fit 37's just fine, and can probably run a 40 with little issue.

On the t-case, pushbotton or floor shift either one will work, but...with a solid front axle in any truck your supposed to run a t-case with a fixed fornt yoke, there for the np261 you have wont cut it. i went with a 241 and will be using factory floor shift parts to make it look original. then im swapping in a 2wd dash so i wont have the electric knob anymore.

look into these two threads.

http://www.gmfullsize.com/forum/showthread.php?t=155949
http://www.gmfullsize.com/forum/showthread.php?t=172708

the second one is a truck using the ORD kit. read through them, its worth the time, theres alot of extra talking but the info is all there
 
No dodge axle, i want to stay away from unit bearings, also want to do leafs to make it more simple.

I was hoping to buy a sye for my case or even but the floor shift case and swap it in. IM trying to find a sye but no such luck like you said, i was going to use either skys kit or ord. Skys tho gives more lift and then i can use less of a lift spring also seems a lil tougher. I might just use a d44 also since i wont really offroad it like some would...lol. 37s is all i want to run, i hope to achieve a lil less lift than you have but it does look damn good i must add.
 
id stick with the ORD, sky is too much bracket. do you have a diesel motor or gasser?
 
6.0, 4l80e...i like the ord kit, seems complete with ev but does it come with bolts. the procomp fron springs for 4.5 are cheap.

What if i had drive shaft super store make me a sye that you drill the main shaft and bolt it on...?...i could but a shaft and have it drilled and ready
 
rob h said:
6.0, 4l80e...i like the ord kit, seems complete with ev but does it come with bolts. the procomp fron springs for 4.5 are cheap.

What if i had drive shaft super store make me a sye that you drill the main shaft and bolt it on...?...i could but a shaft and have it drilled and ready
Click to expand...

seems rigged to me. best bet in my opinion would be to pick up a 32 spline 241 floorshift unit then source up a floor shift that came out of your model truck and bypass the electronics, all that will do...is when you grab 4lo your speed will show double what your actually doing.
 
Ill look and see if i can find that case and the floor shift, how would you by pass the comp for that tho and how would the speedo work..? Wouldnt the service 4x4 light stay on..?
 
sacrifices. the light may stay on, just pull the bulb. but the vss sensors on the cases should be the same. if not, you can swap the vss plugs my splicing wires.

you just gotta decide how bad you want it. unless you get lucky and find a SYE or if ORU started making them again.

the computer will jsut think the truck is in 2wd. thats all.

besides that... the cases that are in the hd's are all prone to pump rub and thats no good.
 
What year would this 241 with the vss come from..? I have a 241 from a chevy blazer but im not sure its a 32 spline or vss. Its behind an injected 350 with a 700r4. I can sacrafice if it works well, the sye is super expensive, would a 32 spline 241 bolt right in..?
 
rob h said:
What year would this 241 with the vss come from..? I have a 241 from a chevy blazer but im not sure its a 32 spline or vss. Its behind an injected 350 with a 700r4. I can sacrafice if it works well, the sye is super expensive, would a 32 spline 241 bolt right in..?
Click to expand...

being as it is from a 700r4 it will be 27 spline. Just find a 32 spline input and swap them out. Its not hard to swap them out. Also the input from a np243 electronic shift case will work. They also have a fixed front output.
 
that 241 will not work, if its out of a blazer its more than likely a passenger drop. unless you use a chevy axle. id say find a HP ford dana 60 with the wider padwidth and run that.
 
I was thinking the same, just go with the ford axle also since there hp. Ill have to search for the tcase.
 
those t-cases are a dime a dozen. there are so many 3/4 ton 88-98 model trucks out there its rediculous.

man i wish i was cloaser, having done this and on a newer truck i could save you alot of headache.

pm. me if you want my phone number, ill try to help you out when i can.
 
The case i should have no problem finding, lots of that year chevys in the junkyard. Thanks for the help, i want to find out as much as possible before i remove all the ifs. i might get the sas kit and bolt it on a while, get the case and the linkage ready, get the axle prepped...etc. Cover all the routes before i get into it. Thankyou, ill pm you.
 
all else fails, you can always do the swap and the lift and then recoop some cash while driving the thing around as a 2wd...i did that for nearly a year, then i dove into the t-case situation.

trust me, my situation with the t-case is waaay worse than yours.

good luck with it
 
Im thinking the same, bolt it all in, do the steering and save up to do the case, front shaft etc.... that would give me more time to get it all done...

Also isnt like i dont have another truck....lol....
 
I have split decisions on what to do.........

I keep thinking do it all chevy, and using the 241 passenger drop. Just not sure if my crossmember would work. Doing it this way would be cheaper too and easier to find. Also a chevy 60 with 4:10s like my rear axle has is easier to find...only catch is low pinion but with 8 inches of lift it wont be too bad. Doing it with the ford tho i get the high pinion, and like said the wider pad width. But will my h2 wheels fit over the ford hubs..?...

.....This whole thing sucks to figure out what way to go but it would be real good when its all done.
 
There is a company making the unit bearing eliminators. They come with the bearings and hubs to convert them over. I just saw it the other week on xtreme4x4. It was on their dodge DD gas mileage truck.
 
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