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sas on 2003 2500hd

i know this is all pretty confusing at first but its really no that hard to figure out.

yes h2's will fit, i ran them on mine, but it sucks the stance way inward. i eventually went to different wheels.

to make the h2's work i jsut took a buffer to the inside of the wheel so the hub would slide through
 
The stance now has the tires inline with the flares, so them not sticking out would be fine. I just have to see what route and what parts come easier for the time being. Id rather the ford axle but the chevy seems easier to come by also so does that side drop 241. Its not that its confusing its just doing all the research and fining as much info as i can so i know all what im getting into.

So far here my lil gathering......The offroad direct complete kit seems the best also buy the panard and steering for the 60. For the tcase the 241 with vss no matter what drop i use seems like the perfect case. The springs a set of procomp superduty 4 inchers will do. Shocks ill prob use a nice set of bilsteins, a drive shaft with double cardan and go 1350 like the rear. The axle either ford or chevy d60 unless a hp 44 comes super cheap. As for the abs ive seen to ground the signal wire and the lite goes out(not sure tho). The service 4wd can be turned out by taking the bezel off of the dash and unplugging the module behind it (not totally sure either).....what am i forgetting..?....feel free to pic it apart.

Heres a pic of what i have....only differance is not there are jba stainless headers and dynomax 4inch stainless exhaust.

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There is a company making the unit bearing eliminators. They come with the bearings and hubs to convert them over. I just saw it the other week on xtreme4x4. It was on their dodge DD gas mileage truck.

there are a few companys do in this. thay have been making unit bearing eliminators for around 5 years now :thumb: and its only for solid axle stuff at this point.
 
Sorry, i meant for my ifs.....doesnt matter tho i want to straight axle it, and i dont want to use the dodge axle....lol
 
The 241 ive seen thats put into the newer 1/2 ton trucks looks like it almost if does touch the floor, would it be any different in the 2500hd since the frame is alot taller..? Would it benefit me to clock down the case some so its away from the floor..?....it should help tho if i use a low pinion axle.
 
I found some usefull info, that may help anyone ...(alot info came from guys on here and full size chevy)

1. The chevy 60 is 69.0 inches wide, the ifs is 68.6 so the stance will be real close to what it is now.

2. The 32 spline 241 will bolt right up to the 4l80e

3. The 241 wont shift out of 2nd gear in low range, ull have to un plug the tccm and wire one of the pins to a ground , then it will shift fine in lo range

4. The 241 vss can be spliced right in since they both have a 40 pulse.

5. Dluxfab has tone rings that slip on the inside of chevy hubs, and get tacked on. Sensor mounts get welded to the knuckles, Then you can use the stock abs sensors.

6. By unplugging the tccm behind the dash controls will tyrn out the service 4wd light.

7. The offroad direct kit gives 3 inches, with 4 inch super duty springs you will get 7.5 of lift since the gas 6.0 is alot lighter than the 6.6. Will also give 3-4 degrees of pinion angle.
 
There is a company making the unit bearing eliminators. They come with the bearings and hubs to convert them over. I just saw it the other week on xtreme4x4. It was on their dodge DD gas mileage truck.


the ORU kit is like $2000. you could go threw alot of fuel for that kinda cash
 
I should be starting this in a few weeks..

Ill be picking up a 79 ford 60 thats all redone shortly which makes the job a whole lot easier. Offroad direct has the kit, u bolts, brakelines, hardware, trac bar, bilstein 5150 shocks, shock hoops, spring plates. Nice all bolt on for 1300.00. For the case i found a 32 spline 241 and the newer style shifter so it looks like it came there. I have the gasket, bolts, pigtail and slip yoke seal for the tcase swap. Also i have a stock 1310 front shaft that should work for the time being. Hopefully the rear shaft will work without mods. The 263 and the 241 are .500 in the differance which shouldnt matter. Ill prob run wheel spacers all around to make the stance a little wider.
 
Good thread guys...

I checked ORD's site, they go from 98 to 01 thru 07...any reason this wouldn't work on a 99?
 
Isnt 99 when they had the older style for 1/2 the year and the new body sytle the other half..? Id call ord and ask, he should know exactly what it fits and why the 99 isnt included.
 
looks like a decent deal rob. seesm to me you have it pretty planned out, dont worry...the small stuff that may come along will be easily figured out on the fly.
 
Thanks, i was going to go with cheap shocks but i think its better just to do it once...lol. Im trying to get to everything but im sure ill forget something. Also ord has good prices on the kit with the acessories that are needed, Ill prob need to buy a draglink that i can cut too size to have less down time. Hopefully the shackle hangers go on without modding the exhaust, will at ord said ita all good with the 6.0 so it might just work.

Prob going to do the case swap, install the floor shifter and hang the brackets one weekend then do the rest the next unless i have more time ill do more. Im thinking 2 full weekend if it all works out right. All the parts will be new so it should be a good swap, i just hope it doesnt ride any worse than it does now. Now its all cranked up so its a little rough.
 
Looking into this, just as much as leafs.....

I seen this(pics below) and spoke to jim cole(owner) and its just as much as leafs shipped to me. Any ideas or comments on this..?..He said he can give me longer coils so the 37s clear nice. That about 1.5 lower that i have, that would be good then i can remove my rear block thats 5.5 and either use a 4inch one or buy a shackle flip.

I keep also hearing that the ord kit with superduty springs rides harsh and has a terrible shackle angle, im looking more into that also since coils is alot more work. To do leafs ill have to remove the lower control arm mount, to do the coils i have to remove it all. Which is alot more time cleaning and painting but it should drive alot nicer...


Help me out, much appreciated......

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your saying you can kit that whole kit for the same price as the leafs?? does the kit include everything you need???

if so then go with the kit
 
For the cage kit which is now bloody knuckle offroad is 2000 shipped, since i dont need the steering or any of the rear suspention parts is what makes it alot cheaper. The ord kit complete with shocks and ev for the install comes to 1350, good leafs are 650 so thats real close. I will tho have to buy brakelines tho for the cage kit.

Thats exactly the same, give or take a few bucks. Its more work but it will look and drive nicer than leafs. The pics is what the kit consist of, ev you see, shocks and all.

I seen shawn used cage parts but fabbed some of his own in his first design and it held up good......lol...I dont plan on doing even close to that..lol.
 
For the cage kit which is now bloody knuckle offroad is 2000 shipped, since i dont need the steering or any of the rear suspention parts is what makes it alot cheaper. The ord kit complete with shocks and ev for the install comes to 1350, good leafs are 650 so thats real close. I will tho have to buy brakelines tho for the cage kit.

Thats exactly the same, give or take a few bucks. Its more work but it will look and drive nicer than leafs. The pics is what the kit consist of, ev you see, shocks and all.

I seen shawn used cage parts but fabbed some of his own in his first design and it held up good......lol...I dont plan on doing even close to that..lol.

saying shawns stuff held up "good" is the understatement of the year, and its only february. cage needs to get that stuff from him and hang it on the wall.

but seriously, if it was me and i could ge the whole cage kit, i would.
 
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