Not thickness thin, more like narrow. The width cut by the hole.
CK5
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sas on 2003 2500hd
- Thread starter rob h
- Start date
pm kirt @ diy4x he is doing steering now and maybe custom cut you 1 . 
I moved the sway bar with 1/2 x2 plates. Bolted em to the bottom of the frame. The last hole is as far back as I could go. Only moved 3 inches but the links are straighter and it looks better.
Bigblue7-2
1/2 ton status
That front bumper is 06 right? I had an 05 and it was grey on the lower plastic but 06 was black? I had a company vehicle before I had my own business that was an 04 and had grey also....What say u?
Looks sick though!
Looks sick though!
That front bumper is 06 right? I had an 05 and it was grey on the lower plastic but 06 was black? I had a company vehicle before I had my own business that was an 04 and had grey also....What say u?
Looks sick though!
The trucks an 03, the bumper was backed into about 3 years ago. It tore the plastic down and tweaked the chrome. The body shop replaced it, i asked for the 06 chrome and plastics. The chrome has the license plate screws real close together on the 03 and it takes a special bracket. The lower grey sucked too so i had em put the black one on. The grey was 03-05, the black 06 looks way better and atleast it now matches. It all worked for me, im actually thinking of doing the 06 hood and grill swap.
Had a rotten weekend, I have an exhaust leak ive been fighting with for months. Finally friday iused a smoke machine and found it, 4 year old jba stainless header between the tubes.The cheapest i can get are the bbk stainless shortys. Then sunday on the way home the ac compressor locked up and took out the tensioner and it will need a belt too. I called today and had a buddy that works at the dealer got me a price. It will be about 500.00 in parts from gm to fix it, the compressor is the biggest chunk. It needs the orfice tube and the drier along with a recharge. Not sure should i do it now and get it done or wait, im afraid if i wait ill have another problem....letting things go could add up.
If the system is still holding a charge you can wait a little while.
Actually, if you have to replace the rec/dryer anyways it prob doesn't matter.
If the system was wide open you wouldn't want to wait too long.
Actually, if you have to replace the rec/dryer anyways it prob doesn't matter.
If the system was wide open you wouldn't want to wait too long.
It holds a charge, if I put a belt on it I will get cold air until the pulley freezes up and snaps it. I'll prob fix it soon, I'm working on the exhaust leak this weekend. Either remove the header and have it tig welded or just buy a set of new ones. If new either bbk 1 3/4 or Gibson 1 5/8 primary tubes but if i can save 400.00 i will...not sure what way yet.
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I did some changes today, removed the dynomax round muffler and put on a flowmaster 50 series hd. Sounds way better, went together real nice with bandclamps and it looks better too. As for sound quality the idle is real quiet and when you stand on it its real throaty and deep. As for the header i removed it and took it to have it tig welded at the local welding shop. Hopefully i have it back early this week. Oh and i did that after the muffler change...lol.
The header was cracked around two tubes, the shop welded them up and between the tubes. I put it on last night with new remflex gaskets and new bolts. So far so good, ill be able to tell for sure tho shortly when i fire it up since its easier to tell when its cold. It seemed ok when i bolted it up.
The fuel pump died 2 weeks ago, i swapped that out with a new pump from the dealer and also a new fuel filter. I sent my tune back out to get the fans to be on sooner and the trans shifting softer.
I bought a few new parts for the truck this week, finally finishing up the 60 and redoing the few old pieces that are left hopefully this weekend. I bought those crane king pin spring eliminators, harsh terrain crossover steering arm, arp studs, king pin cap for the driverside with grease fittings and the reid bronze bushings. The steering arm has the specs that it should work perfect and have the clearance that i need on both sides. I have 2 new rod ends also to put on the draglink when its off. That leaves me with a few bolts in the 60 being old, new from lockout to lockout. The rear shaft slip yoke is noisy also, i picked up a new nickel plated slip yoke and u joints to solve that problem. Im looking into some sort of traction bar or bars for the rear, i keep looking at them and am not sure what to buy. I was thinking long horn fab's bars since they are 2 inch like my radius arms.
I did also buy the parts to fix the ac, im in no hurry for that but atleast i have everything. Also picked up on ebay a used set of jba headers, same as i have. So if the leak starts again im swapping it out. I wouldnt of bought them but they were to cheap not too.... Ill post pics of any of it when i get started.
I bought a few new parts for the truck this week, finally finishing up the 60 and redoing the few old pieces that are left hopefully this weekend. I bought those crane king pin spring eliminators, harsh terrain crossover steering arm, arp studs, king pin cap for the driverside with grease fittings and the reid bronze bushings. The steering arm has the specs that it should work perfect and have the clearance that i need on both sides. I have 2 new rod ends also to put on the draglink when its off. That leaves me with a few bolts in the 60 being old, new from lockout to lockout. The rear shaft slip yoke is noisy also, i picked up a new nickel plated slip yoke and u joints to solve that problem. Im looking into some sort of traction bar or bars for the rear, i keep looking at them and am not sure what to buy. I was thinking long horn fab's bars since they are 2 inch like my radius arms.
I did also buy the parts to fix the ac, im in no hurry for that but atleast i have everything. Also picked up on ebay a used set of jba headers, same as i have. So if the leak starts again im swapping it out. I wouldnt of bought them but they were to cheap not too.... Ill post pics of any of it when i get started.
chevysmithz71
1/2 ton status
I always wonder if I should have gone with the bronze bushings.
I wasnt going to spend the 150.00 on them either..lol. The plastic has worked fine in the past, But i need to change my steering arm and am going to dig in. I figured id buy the crane eliminators and the bronze bushings since i just did axle seals, gears, bearings, axle joints, wheel bearings, seals, longfield spindle bushings, rotors, calipers,pads, lockout hubs, gaskets, spindle nuts etc...i figured y not..thats the missing link. The only pieces not changed is the king pins them selves and they looked pretty damn good.
.....Im not sure tho should or will i need the extra washers they give you for the eliminators. Prob disconnect all steering linkage with the knuckles and make it snug but not tight to turn.
Saying all that will be done that makes the 60 and the 14 bolt new now too. Since i just rebuilt the 14 bolt and the only old piece in that are the hub bearings....i even changed the yoke..lol.
.....Im not sure tho should or will i need the extra washers they give you for the eliminators. Prob disconnect all steering linkage with the knuckles and make it snug but not tight to turn.
Saying all that will be done that makes the 60 and the 14 bolt new now too. Since i just rebuilt the 14 bolt and the only old piece in that are the hub bearings....i even changed the yoke..lol.
Just read this entire thread, not sure why I never saw it before.
I like it.
What ever happened to the aftermarket bumpers?
Martin
I like it.
What ever happened to the aftermarket bumpers?
Martin
Honestly its nothing fancy, just another straight axled truck i guess. I sold those bumpers, i put them on and hated them. They made it look cheap, the fit was horrible and the gaps were all different sizes. Nothing about them made me want to keep em. I messed with them for hours and they sucked. The only part of them i kept was the 10,000 superwinch, i mounted that on my 83's warn bumper. Oh and i made money on them when i sold them...lol.
New parts are all here and on the truck already. I used one washer under each cap, seems a little snug so I might need to remove em. The whole job went with ease, I used a parts mike off set tie rod end for clearance aldo.
how you like the fit of the reid bushings ?
I know the c&m ones fit snug . have to tap them down in .
I know the c&m ones fit snug . have to tap them down in .
They fit perfect, Super nice fit. They are quality pieces, the roll pins sucked tho almost to the point that i wasnt gonna use em.
yep those are tricky little suckers for sure .
Why are they really needed, ive read so they dont spin but dont they spin on the king pin anyway..?
