sas on 2003 2500hd

[rob h]

I have had a small fuel pressure issue that hasn't messed with my afr but needs to be fixed....kind of strange.. My base pressure is set at 58 like stock, vac plugged in its 52. The reg is 1:1 so I should see 70psi when I'm at 12psi. I'm lucky I see over 60, After a long pull it idles in the mid 40s. I'm pretty sure it's the stock fuel filter limiting my pressure rise.

So I ordered a set of -6 nuts and sleeves, so I can re flare the stock lines for a higher flow filter. Plumbing it to -6 I can run an aeromotive 200gph filter. Which won't limit my pressure and will still filter to 10 microns. A buddy of mine has a hydraulic 37 degree flare tool so it should be pretty easy. I only chose that filter since it has replacement filters inside and is almost 2 inches longer than stock so there is enough room to re flare.

 

[rob h]

I have had a small fuel pressure issue that hasn't messed with my afr but needs to be fixed....kind of strange.. My base pressure is set at 58 like stock, vac plugged in its 52. The reg is 1:1 so I should see 70psi when I'm at 12psi. I'm lucky I see over 60, After a long pull it idles in the mid 40s. I'm pretty sure it's the stock fuel filter limiting my pressure rise.

So I ordered a set of -6 nuts and sleeves, so I can re flare the stock lines for a higher flow filter. Plumbing it to -6 I can run an aeromotive 200gph filter. Which won't limit my pressure and will still filter to 10 microns. A buddy of mine has a hydraulic 37 degree flare tool so it should be pretty easy. I only chose that filter since it has replacement filters inside and is almost 2 inches longer than stock so there is enough room to re flare.

I finally got this sorted out, with a mechanical gauge on the regulator I see 2 psi more than my electric autometer. With the new filter I see 66 psi, that's pretty decent now. Way better than before and its way snappier. I think the fuel volume is the key. I'm probably better going to 1/2 inch feed and use my stock 3/8 feed as the new return.

I did start on the meth injection kit, I got the pump mounted, the new tank is plumbed in and the new washer tank is back near the firewall. Is a 3 quart tank, connected to the stock pump. The control box is hooked up too, just the main wiring id left.

The new filter is pic one, frames starting to get surface rust and needs attention asap. The meth pump is the 2nd, it fit perfect on the xmember.

 

[rob h]

I finally have the alky control kit up and running, it works pretty good. I had to get a schematic for the under dash wiring, since i no longer have an electric transfer case i used that. I did a few pulls last night up on the highway and you can tell when its on, seems to add a good amount of power. The afr's are even where they should be, Seems about perfect to be at 12 psi and see low 11s on my wideband. As for the fuel system i turned my base fuel pressure up a few psi, When set at 58 with vac unplugged, plugged in i see 50 so i bumped it up to 52 which makes the base 60. That doesn't seem like much but the extra little bit helps my afr's where i need. That's temporary until i get the tune adjusted. I also pulled off the stock gm plug wires for a set of taylor low ohm 10.4mm wires, these are huge and hopefully work better. I also hate to do this but i'm going to swap out the dual in/out dynomax for a set of 28 inch 5x11 magnaflows, they are the largest body mufflers they have. It needs to be mellowed down, This won't happen right away but needs to happen.

I am looking into doing a little work to my king coilovers, i run now 8x400/14x500, i think i will try 10x350/12x450 viper coils instead. Also will pick up the nice spring sliders from all german motorsports, they are taller and take away the spring bow and rub. These bastards squeek now and it drives me nuts, i tried turning the springs but that didn't work. It functions perfect but the noise sucks.
http://www.race-dezert.com/home/german-motorsports-suspension-sliders-12663.html

Chevy305, did any of those posts over on pt trucks help you with the speed engineering exhaust dilemma..?

 

[Chevy305]

Chevy305, did any of those posts over on pt trucks help you with the speed engineering exhaust dilemma..?

Ya I think so. They still can't ship a 6 speed system until end of September. Thanks but no thanks, it's taken waaayyyy too long and I can't wait anymore. I finally landed on keeping it simple, I'll just weld the leaking collectors. If they ever need to come out in the future I'll just cut them and install some V bands.
As far as exhaust Im leaning towards swapping out the factory muffler for a big Magnaflow or a Jones Areo Turbine. I'll keep the factory resonator and tailpipe. I kinda like the idea of keeping the factory 6.2 tailpipe. It's the only tell for those few that know that it's not a 5.3 and shouldn't be messed with

I bet that meth kit feels like you added more boost? Also on a boosted application are you supposed to run that rich or are you messing with the fuel pressure to keep the afr safe?

 

[rob h]

With meth you need to run it rich, closer to low 11s or even high 10s is still ok especially above 10 psi. Without meth it stays high 11s, to low 12s which is about right. With these #'s i'm talking wide open throttle. The idle is in the high 15s on my wideband with the cam it sees more air past it. Running down the highway its low 15s and under load it goes low 13s to mid 12s. Most of the #'s are pretty good, i would rather be a little rich than lean especially running meth.


The exhaust i have fought with long tube noise ever since the install. The stainless works headers have slip joints and don't leak at all but made it loud and raspy. I tried the single corsa with magnaflow cats and the boost trashed the cats. The corsa was glass pack loud. I swapped the corsa for a walker muffler..lol and it was like stock, I hated that too. Now i have a set of high flow cats connected to magnapacks and then a dual in out huge xflo dynomax all welded together with no leaks, Its stupid loud tho and gets annoying as a daily driver. I think 2 big body magnaflows are the way to go, the 5x11 and over 2 foot should help...i hope. This whole deal isn't cheap, those mufflers will be also 300,00 for the pair. I wonder are the jones mufflers quiet..?


For how many complaints on the header fitament and them blaming old motor mounts is a crock..!! Alot complain about all of it with 4wd, not much on 2wd at all tho. The thread was that bad they erased the whole thing. I was going to but 1 7/8 headers but i'm not now.

 

[Chevy305]

Yup 2 magnaflows should definitely quiet it down some. Does you set up drone real bad?

I have the Dynomax Xflow on my K10, yup it's definitely loud. The Jones muffler won't be too quiet either but the XL version has a resonating chamber to help eliminate drone. It's kinda like a Corsa. I may try it that way for just a few months then slap in a magnaflow for the winter. Really depends on how much drone I get.

 

[rob h]

Real faint drone. almost not there and that's at 2500. Its loud tho and raspy, it sounds pretty good just too loud. I guess dual magnaflows it is.....but i just was out degreasing under the hood and it looks pretty good and when i went to clean the kings i found the right upper spring is broke and the slider is on an angle. This sucks, i guess i will be ordering new springs before i wanted too.

 

[Chevy305]

Yup it's always something...

 

[rob h]

I placed an order for a new set of springs for my kings. Hopefully i have em next week, I picked red viper coils in 10 inch over a 12, taller lower seats and a set of black sliders. Right now i have an 8 over 14, the upper gets too compressed under weight, even with the stops set the upper doesn't get much travel. This way the truck will ride on the combined rate and should ride nice and smooth again, keeping off of the dual rate stops alot longer.

 

[rob h]

Springs came In and I just swapped them out. Went pretty easy and it sits about where it should. Here's a pic, sorry it's sideways.

 

[Chevy305]

What pic?

 

[rob h]

Sorry for the delay...lol.. I'm back. I did a few small changes that have worked well, That pic above ill post shortly from my phone. The springs that i had in the pic are changed already, i tried the setup that king and a few other companies like wfo and full throttle use. The old way was a 10 inch spring over a 12, the new way the upper spring is a short 4 inch 400lb tender and the lower is an 18 inch 350lb. The tender gets crushed flat and it rides on the lower spring, pretty nice setup. So far it seems to work pretty good, at most i'll swap the 350 out for a 300 and be about perfect. For now tho i'm leaving it go and will change some valving at nitrogen pressures. I changed the brakes on the front and rear to ebc yellow stuff pads, i will say the truck stops way better than it did before. I have had some steering play and it drove me nuts, i changed the upper intermediate shaft to a borgenson and the lower to a new gm shaft. Replaced the lower column bearing and also tightened up the tilt column. That made the steering perfect, its back the way it was years ago. Finally i found a nice set of pewter metallic extended cab doors, mine the pinch welds on the inside are swelling and look pretty rusty. So they came from north carolina so they are faded but really nice.. Along with that i bought a gm 06 hd hood, new set of lights and a set of cut out flares(i can lower it another inch or more with these).The trucks going to get gone over in a month or so and get paint work done so a few more things and its ready, The way it looks now its going to get all sanded and resprayed the same color. Its pretty nice now but with blending the doors and the hood why not take the extra step.

The pics didn't all work from my phone for some reason so, the first pic is the new spring setup, the 2 middle links are the last setup and the borgenson shaft. the last pic are the doors i picked up. The hoods and grille are in the boxes so really nothing to see..lol.



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[Chevy305]

Nice so the truck rides much better? What's the reasoning behind the crushed 4" spring?

 

[rob h]

The crushed upper is for 3 ideas. One to take up 4 inches of space since a lower spring longer would bow. Two for down travel, it opens up when the shocks shaft is almost all the way out to keep tension on the lower spring. The 3rd is the trucks weight compresses the upper and keeps from compressing the lower as much. That making ride heigth without much spring preload. This way the big springs kicked in all the time so the rides the same. The other way the lower would kick in and it would get more firm.

So like the pure performance kits would use the same but with a 375, king and full throttle the same with a 400. So I chose the 350. I still think a 300 would be perfect but with the 350 now it handles pretty well. With what I had b4 with the dual rate setup the springs together would make a 200 rate and then the 450 would kick in.. it was harsh.

 

[rob h]

A few things i needed to do before it gets body work done. I sold the cowl hood on craigslist and put on a new 06 hd hood along with a new grille. Those are black for now, the side pieces of the grille and the top bumper cap will be body color. I was also going to put cut out fender flares on to give more clearance, so i ordered a set, removed a front flare and it looked horrible. Way too much width at the center of the wheel, The rear flares you cut out too much and the fender opening would be huge. So since the corners of my pocket flares are broken i ordered a new set of fronts instead and returned the cut outs. What i did to get the truck to the height i wanted is adjust the 4 link so the axle sits 1 1/4 farther forward. The other was to remove the bumper upper cap and replace it with a cap for a 1500 which is 2 inches smaller. I raised the bumper, i cut 2 of the brackets off and re-welded em back on. The other mount i welded a 2 inch block to it and bolted it on. It worked out pretty well with clearance with both of these small mods. What even made it better was it rides a little better too with less spring pre load. I'll post a pic of the cutout flare and take notice to the upper bumper cap. Also so you can see the stance and the new front end.

 

[rob h]

The hood, bumper, flares and the one door bottom was painted. Thar much for now was done to get it back to all one color. More body Works needed to be done but not asap. My brothers shops pretty busy, the rockers will be done along with the rest being painted soon. 1 added a black billet grill to go with the other black on the truck.

 

[GWeakland620]

Trucks lookin good dude!

 

[rob h]

Thankyou, much appreciated .

 

[max 02]

Very Nice!

Always liked your truck!


Gotta love how easy it is to change doors on those years trucks.

 

[rob h]

Thankyou, so far so good with the front end, you can tell its an aftermarket hood(capa) with the gap above the headlights. Not much I can do with that but the rest fit pretty nice. Stock hd hoods arent easy to find in good shape used. The painted bumper cap made a huge difference, this was painted over the texture which looks better than I thought it would.

The rear doors were easy to change but the alignment of the body line was pretty bad. There is no adjustment except to force the welded on hinges around. I had to use a hammer and a chisel. The doors tho being from a north Carolina truck are a shade lighter. Under one of the mouldings the paint was chipped. No rust so it was sanded and fixed. The rockers, corners are next then go over the stone chips and paint both sides. Doesn't really need it but it's going to get blended so why not since it's not much more work.