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sas on 2003 2500hd

I added billet bumper and tow hook grilles to fill in the gaps. Bolted tow hooks to the bottom of the frame so they are still there but not in the stock place. Also changed the headlights to a set of clear with black edges and led bulbs. Wired in resistors to keep it from hyperflashing. Thar should be it for the front of the truck since about every piece is new. I buffed the 2 rear doors yesterday to see how they are and the driver'side close but not as shiny, doesn't matter tho since they are getting painted.

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The exhaust on this thing was starting to be a little much, the dynomax xflow was just about the same as glass packs. Not too nice to start in the cold mornings and let warm up. Horrible loud rasp and just not a good sound at all, I never thought i would complain about it being too loud but its annoying every day. I called a few places on their thoughts on a decent mild sound. The problem is its dual 3 inch pipes, not easy to make quiet on a 6.0. Dynomax said a set of super turbos would work best, since it supercharged... i refuse to buy those and they aren't stainless so those are out. Flowmaster said hush power 2's in the longer version. Finally magnaflow said to run a 12579 which is a 5x11x22 inch body muffler, center/offset. I was in luck since actually had one of them on my single exhaust before i put the headers on. I dug that out of the shed and ordered one from summit, chopped the dynomax off and band clamped the new ones on. I used the lap joint torc tite stainless clamps and one from pypes with the hanger connected. I will say i should of done it this way before, nice and deep mild tone with no rasp at all...!! I can actually hear my supercharger scream again. Under higher rpm its still decent so hopefully the sound stays this way for awhile.

The body work should be done either the end of january or the first week of february.....hopefully..
 
I've actually got the same muffler on my 6.2 in a single 3.5". It's actually really quiet and has a nice deep tone when you get on it, perfect for a daily driver.
 
3.5 or 4 inch is what i should of went with but with my truck having so many items that weren't supposed to be there i couldn't find a good tail pipe that i wouldn't have to chop up. The dual 3 inch with 2 mufflers is louder than one 3 inch but exactly like you said its perfect for the daily driver. Hopefully these mufflers don't get too loud after some forced air is pushed thru em.

Debating on a few items, color matched tow mirrors..? Color matched side steps and lower bumper valance and do i remove the rear bumper for a roll pan....hmmmm
 
No roll pan, they don't look right on lifted trucks. But yes to color matching all the things!
 
From looking at pics i don't care for the roll pan either, Onto the color matching tho with having black wheels do i leave some black or do i color match it all. Not really sure what to do, i have time to figure it out.
 
A bunch of small things came up, not really a big deal. I was getting miss fire codes, what came up is my #1 injector plug has been acting up. Looks like i must have bumped it or something since the wires coming out of the weather pack. I cut it off and replaced it with a new one. Next my driverside 02 sensor has been reading super slow, so i need to find out what works best with boost. The bosch and ngk are supposed to be the ticket, swapped both sides out and it seems to be alot better. Also changed the oil this week to joe gibbs driven ls30, i only do one oil change a year so i'll make it a good one. Thru reviews it seems good for supercharged ls motors, maybe horsesh!t but its worth a try. I used an ac delco filter since its what has worked..lol. While doing so i found the hose going from the air tube to the passenger valve cover soaked with oil. My motors taking in oil thru boost. That's way to much oil being sucked out meaning my catch can isn't working and too much oils getting thru....something else needs to be done. So thru searches i've found breathers setups but i can't have un metered air with a maf tune. I need a way to get the excess pressure out. About my only route is a vented catch can with check valve. What kept coming up thru searches is mighty mouse. I emailed mighty mouse solutions, "dave" got right back to me, he asked a few questions and one was oil in the air tube. He hooked me up with a pcv catch can setup although this setup makes the pcv system run in reverse. One of the best points is it doesn't pull thru the pcv valve spot in the passenger cover. The fresh air from the air tube goes to the drivers valve cover .(before went to the passenger) The can goes from the passenger cover to the intake before the rotors. This can is vented with a check valve so no un metered air gets in but unwanted air gets out. The link below shows the 1k hp kit that uses 10an, i changed it for the 600hp kit so it uses 6an. I don't really need the 10an hoses and fittings, it saved me a few bucks too.

http://www.mightymousesolutions.com/product-page/fc1d2320-447d-65d1-391f-715c8c8cf9e8
 
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I tried the tow mirror deal, they look big but they are super nice to see with a big truck. Few up coming things, ported n polished 317 heads, blower spacer, stage 4 4l80 with triple disk converter. That should get things up to part again..lol. plus the body Work...soon...brothers shops real busy.

Forgot to add, I ordered the new larger psc steering gear for hd trucks. I got that along with a psc 1.5x8 cylinder. No real good pics at all except for it in the box. Was a bitch to bleed but let me say wow, steers totally awesome...one finger on dry road. Huge difference, we'll worth the cash. Steering gear pic sucks, it's alot bigger than stock. I'll try and get better ones soon.

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I didnt mention the 241 in the truck has been a disaster. First the slip yoke leaked, then the case 1/2 had a drip. Now after a year it jumps out of gear and makes noise. So I pulled the tail cover, the snap rings in the groove and it's the updated one so that's not it. Next the linkage is also fine and adjusted right. So i picked up transfer case express 241 and in 3 days and a tote was on my porch.

After thinking about it i should of just fixed my current one and putin a sye. So I'll be opening up the new one to do a jb conversion sye with a 1350 flat flange. Live n learn I guess..gotta think about it b4 I order...wtf... i'm glad it wasn't too much of an expensive mistake. When I get that done and the new trans comes in I'll also order a high angle driveline rear shaft. That way this whole deal is done right and strong plus I won't need to worry it's the weak link.

With the trans,flexplate,converter,tcase, rear done last year and all the top end motor work the only piece untouched is the bottom end. It's all new again....ready for another 14 years. I can't see buying a new truck since I enjoy this one too much...lol. After all of this is done within the next 2 months i'm going to have the truck dyno/street tuned to get the most out of it and get it all the way it should be. It will be speed density tuned instead of being thru the maf.
 
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A good dynamic street tune does wonders. I've had it done to every LSX vehicle that I've owned and it really wakes them up.
 
Chevy305 said:
A good dynamic street tune does wonders. I've had it done to every LSX vehicle that I've owned and it really wakes them up.
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That's the goal, the tune I have now works but a dyno/street tune will get what's missed. I'm glad I'm not the only one that sees atleast this parts a good idea..lol
 
I started a 241 thread in the garage, the sye idea isn't going to work. My rear shaft will be too long to run a one piece, i'm not dealing with a carrier bearing and a 2 piece shaft. So i went another route with suggestions and reviews. I seen alot of long one piece shaft trucks run big aluminum shafts with no problems. Dmax trucks for a few years came with them when the steel shafts couldn't do the task and had low and high speed vibes. My current shaft shouldn't even be used at the rpms it spins at. So i ordered a heavy wall 5 inch 1410 shaft from drive shaft specialist. That should work out nice and be alot less weight on the slip yoke.
 
Good call with the aluminum shaft. It should be lighter too.
My '12 1500 6.2 is a ccsb and has a huge ass one piece aluminum shaft. A lot of people pushing a decent amount of power or driving fast have problems with the stock shafts blowing up. It seems the general consensus is don't go over 115mph with the stock shaft as they tend to noodle and explode, even on a stock truck. No wonder the factory set the governor to 99mph. :eek1:
 
Chevy305 said:
Good call with the aluminum shaft. It should be lighter too.
My '12 1500 6.2 is a ccsb and has a huge ass one piece aluminum shaft. A lot of people pushing a decent amount of power or driving fast have problems with the stock shafts blowing up. It seems the general consensus is don't go over 115mph with the stock shaft as they tend to noodle and explode, even on a stock truck. No wonder the factory set the governor to 99mph. :eek1:
Click to expand...

You should of heard them when I said that u have a 70 inch long 3.5 inch steel shaft.... he was like wow, that's dangerous and has to be like a giant rubber band at speeds above 50..lol
 
lol My tuner doesn't like to dyno trucks for that exact reason. He said he had one blow a shaft on the dyno once and that's not something you want to be standing next to...
 
Chevy305 said:
lol My tuner doesn't like to dyno trucks for that exact reason. He said he had one blow a shaft on the dyno once and that's not something you want to be standing next to...
Click to expand...

I really don't blame him for that, I can't imagine that flying around the room. I have a vibration that I can't get rid of. Hopefully this does the trick, after hearing all that the steel shaft scares me.
 
I did get the tcase, the trans will be delivered today. The snow storm yesterday dumped over 20 inches of snow so pitt ohio didn't deliver. I picked up also from the local chevy dealer a rear main seal cover, flexplate, trans mount, converter, flexplate bolts and an adapter gasket. Still more parts to come...

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Converter came, new aluminum shaft shows ups tuesday as long as the weather co-operates. That should about be all the parts to get this thing refreshed with the drive train anyway. Will be a week or so till I get this all done. I did also order hp tuners suite pro, that way I can learn and get this to where I want it. The Pro has an added spot for 5v references. So I can hook my wideband afr and eventually fuel pressure to it.

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I'll get pics later today, my 5 inch .125 wall aluminum driveshaft came in and looks great. Driveshaft specialist did a fantastic job. With a nickel plated 1410 slip yoke and spicer life joints it should be tough and durable. The nickel plating helps life for the play in the slip splines. No vibration now and its totally smooth at all speeds. I'm impressed at how nice it is, something so simple but not cheap as usual. At the tune of 700.00 shipped totally sucks but it did the trick so it's totally worth it.
 
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