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Saying Good-bye to the 90 and Hello to the 72 Build. NEW:Hidden Exhaust

Im not sure where you have your temp switch installed, but....

Hossbaby50 found a lower rated switch and posted up in my Windstar thread a while back. Its number (FS270) and is set to 174*/194*.

Napa carries it....


Good luck !



Troy B,
Ft Hood, TX

Thanks Troy,, Just saved me from searching. Thanks Hossbaby50 also.

The cad block has two temp sensor ports right under the intake and above the water pump. I tapped the block for an extra sensor since I needed 3. I put the new hole next to the one on the right.

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No problem - Anytime, Dennis.

I've had thoughts of grabbing one myself, just to check the difference. Problem is, I draw a blank when trying to find any particular vehicle it may come out of. If I had that info - I'd be off to the p-n-p.



Be sure to post feedback on it if you do grab one. :waytogo:




Troy B,
Ft Hood, TX
 
BAD ASS build man. Great job indeed. Would go well with the Grinch tattoo I have on my arm. It's the Grinch steeling a Christmas tree with lil' Suzy who hanging on to it.
 
Getting most of the leaks fixed. I found the main one on the back of the block. I was wrong!! I was sure it was coming from the head. On the Cad block and heads there is a small are that is hard to fill on the back corner. It goes up on an angle. (So I have been schooled on). When it leaked it followed right down the gap in the head and block by the head gasket. Click the pic, it blows up really big so you can see.

I had to wait until the new intake gaskets came in. I will be pulling the intake this week and making sure I get a really good seal on it.

Was does everyone like for a sealant on the front and backs of the intake? I used right stuff last time.

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Update this weekend. Been in Fla at a crappy conference. All it did was rain. "sunshine" state my ass.
 
No problem - Anytime, Dennis.

I've had thoughts of grabbing one myself, just to check the difference. Problem is, I draw a blank when trying to find any particular vehicle it may come out of. If I had that info - I'd be off to the p-n-p.
Be sure to post feedback on it if you do grab one. :waytogo:
Troy B,
Ft Hood, TX

Picked a new one at the local NAPA store. They said it comes of a 1992 - 1998 BMW 318 I. Part number is FS270 and is set to 174*/194*. I really think this lower temp switch will really help. Maybe the used one was just "used". The first fan doesn't kick on until 205 and the second never comes on. Well I don't let it get hot enough. 210.

I will get it in some time this week and run it up and see how it cools.
 
Picked a new one at the local NAPA store. They said it comes off a 1992 - 1998 BMW 318 I. Part number is FS270 and is set to 174*/194*.


Awesome - Thanks for that info Dennis. Im anxious to "see" what your kick-on results will be.

As for what the other switch runs.... Per my ancient OEM gage....

The primary kicks on right above 210 and the secondary kicks right before 'red line'. I dont exactly trust the gage regardless. The secondary never kicks on, during normal driving, and the primary keeps the engine right under 210, never passing 225. And the 225 is only at red lights and such. Just driving keeps it under 210, no fans at all.


(Reference)

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My sending unit is on the thermostat water neck (another factor, already been cooled) and the gage signal is on the left head. Ive been considering moving the sending unit to the right rear head - But it's not pressing on the list of things to do.




Thanks for the feedback !




Troy B
Ft Hood, Tx
 
Part number is FS270 and is set to 174*/194*. I really think this lower temp switch will really help. Maybe the used one was just "used". The first fan doesn't kick on until 205 and the second never comes on.

Assuming your thermostat is set for 195, then won't the 174 switch turn the fan on when there isn't any coolant flowing through the radiator? I would think the fans turning on at 205 would be about right cause then the temp would float between your thermostat temp (195) and the switch temp (205). Or is it that your injection system requires the lower temp?
 
Assuming your thermostat is set for 195, then won't the 174 switch turn the fan on when there isn't any coolant flowing through the radiator? I would think the fans turning on at 205 would be about right cause then the temp would float between your thermostat temp (195) and the switch temp (205). Or is it that your injection system requires the lower temp?

Maybe I'm wrong :dunno: but I think 205 is too hot to start cooling. I would like the engine to stay right at 195 or lower. I know the thermostat will close and open right around the 195 range. I also have the engine oil cooler and the trans cooler right up front and would like to have some air pulling across them as much as possible. They real didn't say on the injection system, It does however have it's own temp sensor. Even if the fan is on and the thermostat is closed there still will be some air pulling across my coolers and blowing cooler air into the engine bay.

If this was a street truck that was moving all the time I would have a different opinion, but crawling around on a trail with little or no air?
 
Even if the fan is on and the thermostat is closed there still will be some air pulling across my coolers and blowing cooler air into the engine bay.

If this was a street truck that was moving all the time I would have a different opinion, but crawling around on a trail with little or no air?

You're right 205 is a little warm to turn on, but ideally if the fan comes on at 205, the temp will drop back down quickly from there so your max running temp will be 205-ish. You should be able to find a switch that turns on at 195-200. I think my temp switch turns in about 195-200 and is just a generic painless temp switch and keeps the motor running right at 195.

You have a good point about the trans/oil coolers though. Why not put a temp switch on one fan for those separately? Ideally you don't want the motor temp controlling how cool your trans is.
 
While I was in Fl. a friend of mine so graciously picked up the Grinch and trailed it to the exhaust shop for me. Thanks Tyler!

I wanted the exhaust tucked up tight under or even with the frame. I chose not to run the traditional H pipe, instead I ran a Y in back of the transfer case. Again I wanted no part of the exhaust hanging down.

At the headers I started with Flowmasters ball socket connectors. The collector had to be cut off and one part of the ball socket welded on. I then went with 2 1/2 pipe to an Edelbrock 2 1/2 to 3" Y but because of the short run had to be modified and placed directly into the front of the Edelbrock SDT muffler. Out of the muffler with 2 1/2 " dual tails dumping behind the back bumper and angled down. I chose not put them underneath the bumper for an exit since they would be the first to hit at the rear departure angle.

How does it sound!!! Well a little loud for what I wanted. But real deep and mean sounding behind the 500 Cad!!!


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Wideband O2 and Flowmaster ball socket
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Looks good - And a bit creative too - I like it. :thumb:


I hope you dont have one of the results I got from tucking though. My 700 is surrounded, and because the pipes are tucked, I noticed an increase in temperature of the oil. My case is absorbing a bit of the exhaust heat as it rises.

I'm working on some heat shields to help reverse the effect, plus installing a cooler as well.

.... Right after I finally finish my fan shroud .... :woot: (Link in sig)



And, nothing wrong with a good growl. You'll adjust to it sooner than later.




Troy B,
Ft Hood, TX
 

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