LUBA
1/2 ton status
Nice cage, What size tube is it?
CK5
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Saying Good-bye to the 90 and Hello to the 72 Build. NEW:Hidden Exhaust
- Thread starter GRINCH
- Start date
GRINCH
1/2 ton status
1 3/4" HREW .120 wall.
Cage is looking pretty unique 
Better have that thing running by next summer. I will have my new build running this winter. Maybe meet up in Bozeman for some wheeling. Kinda wild you went to a 1st gen and I went away from 1st gen at same time.
Better have that thing running by next summer. I will have my new build running this winter. Maybe meet up in Bozeman for some wheeling. Kinda wild you went to a 1st gen and I went away from 1st gen at same time.
GRINCH
1/2 ton status
Cage is looking pretty unique
Better have that thing running by next summer. I will have my new build running this winter. Maybe meet up in Bozeman for some wheeling. Kinda wild you went to a 1st gen and I went away from 1st gen at same time.
I'm hoping to have it done before then... Winter wheeling is coming up! Saw the first snow up in leadville last weekend. Once the cage is done I will start fitting the 500, 4l80E, 241 combo. Once that's done off to get squirted!!!
GRINCH
1/2 ton status
Have the seats (Hunsaker Recliners) all fitted and mounted. Used Corbeau's retractable 3 Pt Harnesses. The retractable shoulder belts can be locked in or use the inertia wheels. There is a switch on the inertia wheels that locks them.
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Can you tell what these little accessories are for. (Hint: I'm old and we wheel mostly in the winter.
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Lumbar support and upper and lower seat heaters. Dual settings. The heat will also be good for the sore back I always have.
Now the cage question.
Can I weld this crossbar in now? It's been so long since I had it apart I wonder if I will have probelms getting the steering column or pedals in.
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Can you tell what these little accessories are for. (Hint: I'm old and we wheel mostly in the winter.
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Lumbar support and upper and lower seat heaters. Dual settings. The heat will also be good for the sore back I always have.
Now the cage question.
Can I weld this crossbar in now? It's been so long since I had it apart I wonder if I will have probelms getting the steering column or pedals in.
I'd bet the wiring is for seat warmers. Nice setup with the seats and belts, but it seems like you'd want the harnesses attached closer to the rear of the seats.
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
On mine, the steering column will go in ok, but I do have to drop the column loose and tilt it down a bit to get the cluster bezel on and off. You might try putting in the column and bezel to see if it can be removed easily.
GRINCH
1/2 ton status
They are actually closer than Corbeau showed in thier diagrams and instructions. The way they retract and the length in the Y section force you to have them that far back. I was thinking the same as you on it initially. They also want no more than a 45 degree angle on them.
GRINCH
1/2 ton status
thanks.. I was hoping not to have to upack the boxes of goodies, but I better before I fire up the welder. But then again the cage is fully removable.
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bp71k5
3/4 ton status
My cluster has aftermarket guages in it and the really deep ones are the problem. The stock speedo was also problematic. I think you might be ok, but it would suck to have to remove the cage to change a lightbulb in the cluster.
I think 30+ days is enough time for an update. What's Greg been doing?I will post pics on my build on Sunday. This weekends goal.. See how the Cad 500 fits.
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Ahem....I believe we are all owed a little something.
GRINCH
1/2 ton status
Not much progress. I set the motor in where I thought it should go. Realizing I jumped the gun a little and didn't have all my mock up parts I should have. I need to get my headers installed (ordered) and the oil pump and filter. (sits on lower front of right hand side).
My goal is to have the motor sit a low as possible and back as far as I can. Without redoing the firewall again I think the motor is back far enough. It may be sitting to low also. I won't know until the headers come in.
I will be fabbing up my own crossmember and motor mounts once I get the height set.
My goal is to have the motor sit a low as possible and back as far as I can. Without redoing the firewall again I think the motor is back far enough. It may be sitting to low also. I won't know until the headers come in.
I will be fabbing up my own crossmember and motor mounts once I get the height set.
grendel
1/2 ton status
You'll want to put the crank pulley on that motor. Oil pump and filter, too. I used a 425 filter neck to get away from the front crossmember. You may want to run a remote filter set up. Here's what I did for my firewall and hydroboost.
grendel
1/2 ton status
Here's the front, I can barely fit a belt on the crank.
GRINCH
1/2 ton status
Hey thanks for the tips.. I did order a special pump from the Cad Co that is supposed to address clearance issues.
Is that one of Kerts (DIY4X) crossmembers? If so did you have to mod it? When I called him about it he said it wouldn't work. Are you running a rearsump or midsump pan?
Sure looks like you have plenty of clearance in the picture for the belt.
Is that one of Kerts (DIY4X) crossmembers? If so did you have to mod it? When I called him about it he said it wouldn't work. Are you running a rearsump or midsump pan?
Sure looks like you have plenty of clearance in the picture for the belt.
grendel
1/2 ton status
Yes, it's his cross member. I ended up making my own motor mounts from his. Basically, I split them in two and welded in some .5inch plate to raise the motor up. Rear sump pan. Looks are deceiving there.
GRINCH
1/2 ton status
I'm close to the point of building the motor mounts and am looking for a little advice before I finalize the placement. The headers are preventing me from dropping it down any further. The crank pulley has enough clearance to drop it some more. I don't have a problem with cutting the frame a little to drop it down lower.
I did clock the transfer case on the first setting of DIY4X's ring. If I clock it up to the next notch I will need to cut the floor some. I am using the crossmember of my 90 Blaze.
I think I have enough clearance on the back of the motor. Passenger side has tons but the driver side has about 2 1/2"
I also am concerned about the clearance for the valve cover on the drivers side. I will need to check and see how tall they are. I only have 3" from the top of the head. I will have to use taller than stock valve covers.
I did clock the transfer case on the first setting of DIY4X's ring. If I clock it up to the next notch I will need to cut the floor some. I am using the crossmember of my 90 Blaze.
I think I have enough clearance on the back of the motor. Passenger side has tons but the driver side has about 2 1/2"
I also am concerned about the clearance for the valve cover on the drivers side. I will need to check and see how tall they are. I only have 3" from the top of the head. I will have to use taller than stock valve covers.
GRINCH
1/2 ton status
More pics
It's going to be a toss-up on what to modify.
Obviously you don't have choices when it comes to valvecover clearance, you cut the firewall or move the motor.
But once that is decided and you know the block's position (relatively) it might be easier to modify the passenger side headers than to do a lot more fiddling with frame cuts / and or floor cuts. Moving a header tube (or two) isn't the end of the world and is probably more time-efficient than some other options.
Obviously you don't have choices when it comes to valvecover clearance, you cut the firewall or move the motor.
But once that is decided and you know the block's position (relatively) it might be easier to modify the passenger side headers than to do a lot more fiddling with frame cuts / and or floor cuts. Moving a header tube (or two) isn't the end of the world and is probably more time-efficient than some other options.
GRINCH
1/2 ton status
I thought about modifying the header until I realized it would be the collector that would cause the most challenge.
Would it be all that bad if I took 3/4" off the top rail near the collector? I may take a little more since the motor does have to come over a little bit more than is pictured. I thought about either boxing the area in after the cut or adding a piece of angle iron.
I will post up a pick of the proposed cut when I get home tonight.
Would it be all that bad if I took 3/4" off the top rail near the collector? I may take a little more since the motor does have to come over a little bit more than is pictured. I thought about either boxing the area in after the cut or adding a piece of angle iron.
I will post up a pick of the proposed cut when I get home tonight.
