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Saying Good-bye to the 90 and Hello to the 72 Build. NEW:Hidden Exhaust

About the relays... I had my locker relay right next to the battery when I got a bit of wet mud on it and it fried it. Either put them in the cab or seal them well in the engine bay. I've seen a prius and a corvette in the wrecking yard with a nice looking sealed relay "pod". You might look into something like that.
 
90k5blaze said:
Got the Torque converter back from the shop in SLC. Now it's to tight:mad:.
Will someone please come pick up Mr. Murphy!! He has overstayed his welcome.
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That's the problem with "custom"... nothing is ever smooth, easy or cheap.

The correct expression would be "Built...and Built...and Built, Not Bought" :D


How tight is the new TC? Is there any way to trim down the mounting pads (where the TC bolts go) to gain a little extra clearance, or is it a more serious problem than that?

:usaflag:
 
Greg72 said:
How tight is the new TC? Is there any way to trim down the mounting pads (where the TC bolts go) to gain a little extra clearance, or is it a more serious problem than that?:usaflag:
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It's tight enough that it is pushing the flexplate into the adapter. Granted there is only about 3/32" space between the flexplate and adapter. There should be about 1/8" - 3/16" play between the pads and flexplate. I know they will be able to machine the pads back down to where they need to be.
 
I hate to ask, And maybe it has been, But are you SURE the TC is pushed all the way into the trans? There is a measurement from the front of the bell housing to the TC pads. Is it correct? Make double double sure its pushed all the way back into the trans. If it hasnt engaged the front pump yet, it will drop back another 1/2"ish.
 
y5mgisi said:
I hate to ask, And maybe it has been, But are you SURE the TC is pushed all the way into the trans? There is a measurement from the front of the bell housing to the TC pads. Is it correct? Make double double sure its pushed all the way back into the trans. If it hasnt engaged the front pump yet, it will drop back another 1/2"ish.
Click to expand...

I work IT and I have to ask all the time... "Is your caps lock on"

So no problem. I even pulled the motor again after coming back from the trans shop. Still very tight. It rubs on the top.

I can't get it redone until the new flex plate comes in. After discussing the stock plate vs an SFI rated plate and how some of the Cad plates rip out in the center I decided to give Marty at MTS another call. I had a credit already for the valve covers I returned, so he just sent me a new plate and called it even. Great place to deal with for Cad only parts.

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Very nice build you have going here.

As somebody else said (Greg IIRC) - Custom is custom - You get to figure it all out. Just take your time with it (in engineering) so that the final is exactly what you set out to accomplish. Cost and loss are just another part of bringing it all together.

Relays should be installed in a safe place (free of feet, environment), but easily accessible. If you choose to install them in the engine bay, simply use some RTV on the exposed terminal surfaces after installing the wiring, to form a boot type seal.

Good job thus far, and good luck with the remainder !



Troy B
Ft Hood, TX
 
I love the blazer nice color choice as well i was thinkin about going green with mine

Its nice to see another first gen around we'll have to go wheeling sometime

Scot
 
New Torque converter and flex plate are in. Fits perfect.
Hopefully the motor is back in to stay this time.

It's been a very productive last couple of days.

I have been installing the American Autowire harness as well as my mods for my custom switch panels, Headlight Relays, Windstar fans, Dakota digital dash and any other additional wiring I may need.

Pics coming later....
 
Here are the pics as promised. This is the start of the wiring.
It wasn't to bad using the AAW harness. Then I started adding all the others items. I think I about doubled the amount of wire.

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Controller for the Dakota Digital dash.
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Controller for the Transmission from BE controls. (Baumanns)
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Relay rack and Blue sea fuse panel 12 Circuit with cover.
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Almost done
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Here's some more info on the panels I had made. You download their software ( http://www.frontpanelexpress.com/ )and start drawing. There is a lot you can do with it. Different material, thickness, color, etc... I went to the switch manufacturers website to get the dimensions for the cutouts.

I made two mistakes when I did the panels. One was the choice of color on the font. It looked like it would show up good on thier software but when I got them it was a darker red. White would have been better.
The second mistake was the placement of the font. I didn't take into consideration that the switch rocker was a lot larger than the cut out.

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Lunatic said:
Got an extra shutter snap ?? I'd like to see this (even if it isnt installed yet).



Thx


Troy B
Ft Hood, TX
Click to expand...

Here ya go.

I found someone over on 67-72chevytrucks.com that sells them at almost his cost. Great to deal with also. I wanted to put a trans temp gauge in the center hole. They ended up making it part of the dash for $65.

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That......is a very clean instrument cluster.

Gonna look into Dakota Digital, see whats available...


Thanks



Troy B
Ft Hood, TX
 
Still plugging away (Pun intended :haha:) with the wiring.

I am moving on the the Battery/Alternator power side of the circuits.

Just wanted to run this by everyone to make sure I was heading in the right direction.

I will be using a Blue Sea ACR (Automatic Charging Relay) along with a Blue Sea Battery Switch. I could get by without the Battery switch and the control circuit for the ACR. The battery switch will be nice to kill all power if needed or just to isolate the batteries. The Control circuit can shut off or force the ACR to combine.

When the control line is switched to a positive supply, the relay is closed whenever the voltage is greater than about 9 volts at either terminal.
When the control line is switched to the negative supply line, the relay will be held open.
• When the switch is in the center position, with no command to the relay, the relay will operate automatically to close and open when it senses charging voltages.

Voltage Sensing
The ACR is designed to sense, and operate from, the voltage supplied by
either battery. In a typical application, the engine driven alternator is connected to the starting battery. When the starting battery is sufficiently charged, the ACR will close and share charging with the house battery. If a shore charger is supplying the house battery, when it has brought the house battery up to voltage, the ACR will close and share with the starting battery.

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that works.. i usually run the alt to the common lug tho... allows for a little more charging versatilty...


haha, house bank... shore power/charger, yada.... straight out of my daily life.... :doah: :haha:


any questions, holla..... :D
 
On hold for a few items now, So I thought I would play around with trying to get the shocks mounted outside the frame and as close to the tire as I could.

Keep in mind this is only a mock up. Just trying see if it's going to work. I will add some bracing and gussets then either weld it to the frame or bolt it in, not decided. The tubs already have been widened 6".

Do you think I will have enough clearance? I can't put it on a ramp to flex it out. I'm running stock springs (New) and a shackle flip. I expect about 3-4 inches of up travel and 7-8" of down travel. That is with the current shocks. I don't have them mounted to the axle yet either. Just setting in place.
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how would boxing the frame with nuts welded to the back and a bolt on triangulated mount for the shocks. could always make a different mount for different shocks and swap, no? i would think this wants to be beefy.
 
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