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School me on Auxiliary Lighting

1978Blazerk5 said:
REALLY? Its a brand new alternator. The only time it drops is with those lights. There halogen, so i think that has alot to do with it
Click to expand...

Im pretty sure your headlights are halogen, too. anyhoo, sounds like the alternator is going to fail soon. and using a relay might help, just run a wire from the battery to the relay, then to the light and all that. here's a diagram for what to do.

Relay Wiring Diagram​
A relay is typically used to control a component that draws high amperage. The relay allows full power to the component without needing a switch that can carry the amps. The switch only controls the relay. The relay then provides a direct connection to the battery. It should be noted that either the power(86) or ground(85) in the relay control circuit can be switched. In the case of a horn, the horn button would be used to switch the ground lead(85) and power(86) would be provided directly from the fuse box.​
This is a typical wiring diagram for a standard relay installed for
headlights, horn, fuel pump, electric fan, etc. If the relay has a
5th terminal, it is not used.​
relaywire.jpg
 
Your lights being halogen has nothing to do with it. Wattage has everything to do with it. 55w is 55w no matter the filament make-up.
 
Well I just checked everything

Here is my readings (all at idel of 800rpms)

No lights or accesories- 14 or 15ish
Lights only- 14
Brights only- 14
accesiories only- 14
Lights and accesories- 13
brights and accesories- 13
Lights and accesories
and rev lights - 13
Brights accesorie and
rev lights -13

everything is working fine in my opion. Must of just been my imagination that one day ( must of been a long day that one day.)

But I dont Know how accuarate the stock idiot gauge is.
 
noJeepshere said:
Relay Wiring Diagram​


A relay is typically used to control a component that draws high amperage. The relay allows full power to the component without needing a switch that can carry the amps. The switch only controls the relay. The relay then provides a direct connection to the battery. It should be noted that either the power(86) or ground(85) in the relay control circuit can be switched. In the case of a horn, the horn button would be used to switch the ground lead(85) and power(86) would be provided directly from the fuse box.​


This is a typical wiring diagram for a standard relay installed for

headlights, horn, fuel pump, electric fan, etc. If the relay has a
5th terminal, it is not used.

relaywire.jpg
Click to expand...

i dont know anything about relays. but i think I kinda understand. Are there different types or are the all the same. Oh and I like being able to turn the lights on with out the truck runinng or ect. how do you do that?


Thanks
 
light thru a pillar

Dabba said:
im thinking 2 floods behind the grill for me and if i really need it i can rig up a spotlight somewhere. Either like the cops have or ill just buy a portable one. I do like the ones we have in our trucks/ambulances, spotlight with a handle.
Click to expand...

jc whitney has a light that goes thru the a pillar, used to anyways

i've seen like an 8-10'' big light (looked like a light on a big boat) on tv on land/range rovers in africa, the handle hung down in the middle of cab,..i've seen same type of light w/wired remote and servos on the light, no handle hanging down in cab ..i'd like 1 of those, if i could get a grille to keep from busting it on low limbs, i'm a mudder, ive never flipped any of my rigs out playing, only times i've been upside down was when i'd get 35-45mph in pass. door in derby's, so no threat to big roof light,on my truck...

while on the subject, 15-20 yrs ago some1 made an offroad light that the housing was clear and it looked a little like cop lights, but slanted back some, at the time they claimed brightest light on market, like 1 or 10 millon candle power out of this roof mount thing...shaped like an arrowhead ...kinda, from the side, i think they were called lightning?? any ever seen/had 1 of these?
sorry for slight h/j...it is about lites tho:surepal:
 
what do you need help about? diagram above sums them up...altho i have used a ford start solonoid(i know intermitent use), but it works....battery to fomoco start solonoid off it to lights and run switch to little bolt that engages solonoid, i've had them work for yrs..before they weld shut or quit making contact

what is your question about relays?
 
pretty sure they use'n relays

Dabba said:
and not to hijack but how do you keep the lowbeams on with the highbeams?​
Click to expand...

relays for high beam and low beam...you could connect the switch pins together(lo&hi) w/diode inline between them,..a diode works like a checkvalve, but for electricity...it will flow current in one direction but not the other way, put diode so when switch pin for hi-beam gets charged it flows thru diode to low beam relay switch pin turning both on...when using lo-beams, the diode will keep flow from low beam relay switch from going to the high beam relay switch, so only lo shines...check continuity of diode to see which way it flows and which way it doesn't, if not marked

you need a couple short pieces of wire and a diode, and thats it,.. if you already have relays for high and lo beams....
 
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blazin_blazer said:
what do you need help about? diagram above sums them up...altho i have used a ford start solonoid(i know intermitent use), but it works....battery to fomoco start solonoid off it to lights and run switch to little bolt that engages solonoid, i've had them work for yrs..before they weld shut or quit making contact

what is your question about relays?
Click to expand...

alrite, well looking at the diagram it ansered alot of questions i had. but there is still a couple. I like aftermarket lights where i can turn em on when ever with out having a key in,. so for the 86 termalal what would you use to power the switch? And there is different types of relays correct, Would what i need just be a standered relay? and about what do these things cost?


Thanks
 
find an empty constant hot in fuse block, there should be one,if not.. come off of isolater on firewall to inline fuse thru firewall to switch and use grommets going thru fire wall ...where ever you get your constant hot from to run to pin 86,put a fuse on it closest to 12v origin... you could even come off battery w/fuse, but cleaner lookin coming from the isolater or empty constant hot from fuseblock,..you can usually use an existing grommet to sneak 1 or 2wires thru firewall, but put a fuse close to isolater on firewall, or where ever you get your constant hot to run to pin 86(did i mention,fuse it)... in case firewall rubs wire and shorts/or shorts anywhere, it will blow fuse rather than melting the wires & relays and burn truck down.

standard 4 pin relay...here is one but may need bigger amp rating, radioshack will have them!

http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Product/Item/Main.aspx?g=805&i=120E5000&tp=153

this is only a 30 amp relay!
 
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Alrite Thanks.

I am not really sure what I have left on the fuse block, I already have an alarm and a kill switch, both have relays.

What do you mean Isolator? I am really tring to think but you lost me with that.
 
this thing on firewall

1978Blazerk5 said:
Alrite Thanks.

I am not really sure what I have left on the fuse block, I already have an alarm and a kill switch, both have relays.

What do you mean Isolator? I am really tring to think but you lost me with that.
Click to expand...

i went and took a pic of mine...this is it under hood on firewall

DSC00361.jpg
 
you already have hi&lo relays? if so run wire from switch pin (86 in diagram)of hibeam relay to switch pin (86 in diagram) on lo-beam relay and put a diode(checkvalve) inline only letting current flow from hi-beam switch pin to lo-beam switch pin...diode should only allow current to flow 1 direction from hi-beam relay to lo-beam relay and diode should stop lo-beam relay from making hi-beam hot....other wise hooking those pins together would run all lights all the time...you basically want hi-beam to make both relays hot, but lo-beam relay hot by itself..not much current on switch wires so should be really easy...radioshack would have the diode, tell them what your doing and they should be able to help you... not sure if those are the right 1's or not,

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2036270&cp=&kw=diode&parentPage=search

In a p-n diode, conventional current can flow from the p-type side (the anode) to the n-type side (the cathode), but cannot flow in the opposite direction.
 
I don't know if those would be big enough, as I don't know how many amps to electrify the relay, may want to look at some of the 5 amp or 6 amp diodes for this application. Still pretty cheap to pick them up.
 
thanks, im not sure if i have relays as its pretty stock as far as i know. I might have my stepdad help with that, hes good with electrical.
 
blazin_blazer said:
find an empty constant hot in fuse block, there should be one,if not.. come off of isolater on firewall to inline fuse thru firewall to switch and use grommets going thru fire wall ...where ever you get your constant hot from to run to pin 86,put a fuse on it closest to 12v origin... you could even come off battery w/fuse, but cleaner lookin coming from the isolater or empty constant hot from fuseblock,..you can usually use an existing grommet to sneak 1 or 2wires thru firewall, but put a fuse close to isolater on firewall, or where ever you get your constant hot to run to pin 86(did i mention,fuse it)... in case firewall rubs wire and shorts/or shorts anywhere, it will blow fuse rather than melting the wires & relays and burn truck down.

standard 4 pin relay...here is one but may need bigger amp rating, radioshack will have them!

http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Product/Item/Main.aspx?g=805&i=120E5000&tp=153

this is only a 30 amp relay!
Click to expand...

well the Lights only came with a 20 amp switch and fuse so. Would i be better off using a 30 vrs a 20
 
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