CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
Just in time for the weather to get bad.
Thanks! From the specs I got they measure a true 37" and the width is closer to 14.5" I have not measured them though.
FINALLY got a stereo put in so I have some music! Found a Kenwood with CD, USB, Bluetooth, Pandora and other features. Had to add new wiring for the stereo since the truck comes factory with no radio or radio harness. Cab corner speaker brackets from 73-87.com. The brackets only allow a small magnet with a diameter of 3.25" and not too deep. Unfortunately my Boston Acoustic speakers were 4" magnets. I tried to cut off a corner but ended up ruining a good speaker. Had to go buy other speakers but they were 3.5" magnets. I spaced them out using some weather stripping until I get some 6x9 speaker spacers. Will be adding an amp and sub woofer later. And no... this truck will not do 100 in a 55... Good song though!
At the same time, I did the starter relay Doghead mod. This gets rid of the vulnerable factory starter relay. Its been know to stick and your starter never turns off even with the key off ending up killing the starter and causing other damage to the wiring.
Also added some rear spacers so both front and rear are the same width.
Washed the pig and got a few more pictures with the new tires.
View attachment 262399
At the same time, I did the starter relay Doghead mod. This gets rid of the vulnerable factory starter relay. Its been know to stick and your starter never turns off even with the key off ending up killing the starter and causing other damage to the wiring.
Also added some rear spacers so both front and rear are the same width.
Washed the pig and got a few more pictures with the new tires.
View attachment 262399
Last edited:
Vombrown
Mountain Man
Hey is your exterior color 383 green? I have a couple gallon of it in the shop and was planning to paint everything in it.
Yes, 383 green. Its an exact match to the green that came on these trucks.
Vombrown
Mountain Man
Gotcha. I restored military vehicles for some years, I thought that was what it was but figured I'd ask. I have a bunch of CARC in 383 green in the shop from my last build.
handloader90
Building!
Interested in this fellas # if he's still selling tires for the cheap.
I was going to buy the CARC 383 at Sherwin Williams but had a hard time finding someone at the local stores that knew what I was talking about. Plus it was much more ($300ish just for paint) so I went the cheaper route and did the non-CARC Rapco paint in the spray can. Still very happy the way it turned out and it holds up well. Its not chemical resistance like the military CARC but works for me.
Sorry but that guy won't even reply to my texts since getting the new tires. Not sure what happened. I had a neighbor that wanted tires and he never got back with him either. Don't tell me you can hook up other people when you can't.
Vombrown
Mountain Man
You have to find a Sherwin Williams "industrial coatings outlet" the regular stores don't even have the materials to make it but they can order it in. I was lucky in that we had one of the industrial outlets locally and they were able to mix it on site. I have all the Sherwin Williams product numbers if you want them. Any of the stores should be able to order it in but yeah, it isn't cheap. It is the toughest paint you'll ever apply if you use the base coat and topcoat system that they recommend.
I must have called 4 different Sherwin Williams. I finally got a hold of the industrial coatings division but he didn't know what I was talking about either. I think it depends on who is working there and if they know their product. It was frustrating to say the least. I agree its some good paint.
Haven't had too much time to add more upgrades but one thing I had to do is upgrade my fuel filter, fix my lift pump and replace fuel lines.
Couple weeks ago, the truck died in a parking lot going slow, light throttle then all of sudden it dies. Try to crank it but the engine just spins and never starts. Its the first time I've had to use AAA towing on the truck.
After some troubleshooting I was leaning towards IP (Injector Pump) replacement but thought I'd try the basic stuff first since the IP is $800 and not easy to get to. Turned out it was not the IP but something else with the fuel before the IP. After replacing the rubber fuel lines, filter base, and remove one of the two lift pumps it finally started.
Honestly I'm still baffled on what initially caused it to stall like that. There's a couple things I suspect.
-Filter housing- Needs the tap and plug mod and is leaking
-Filter- Its hard to blow through but only has 500 miles on it. Maybe I have some crap in the tank.
-2nd lift pump- Previous owner had 2 lift pumps in series. I tried the other one this time around.
The new FM100 (ACDelco GF647) filter base and filter turned out really nice. It still uses the same wires as the OEM filter base so you don't lose any features. It did require to swap the connectors. Also added a pressure gauge on the IP side. Uses the same mounting holes with longer bolts/spacers. The fuel fittings are not easy to find since they are not NPT. They are 16mm with the o-ring at the end. My local race shop carried some AN fittings which allowed me to add the gauge.
I still want to replace the IP for peace of mind but now it gives me more time. Just need to find a good core.
New filter base with the fittings.
Filter base installed with pressure gauge.
Old filter base. Needed some new orings and the and the plug mod done but it was easier to just replace the entire thing to rule it out.
Couple weeks ago, the truck died in a parking lot going slow, light throttle then all of sudden it dies. Try to crank it but the engine just spins and never starts. Its the first time I've had to use AAA towing on the truck.
After some troubleshooting I was leaning towards IP (Injector Pump) replacement but thought I'd try the basic stuff first since the IP is $800 and not easy to get to. Turned out it was not the IP but something else with the fuel before the IP. After replacing the rubber fuel lines, filter base, and remove one of the two lift pumps it finally started.
Honestly I'm still baffled on what initially caused it to stall like that. There's a couple things I suspect.
-Filter housing- Needs the tap and plug mod and is leaking
-Filter- Its hard to blow through but only has 500 miles on it. Maybe I have some crap in the tank.
-2nd lift pump- Previous owner had 2 lift pumps in series. I tried the other one this time around.
The new FM100 (ACDelco GF647) filter base and filter turned out really nice. It still uses the same wires as the OEM filter base so you don't lose any features. It did require to swap the connectors. Also added a pressure gauge on the IP side. Uses the same mounting holes with longer bolts/spacers. The fuel fittings are not easy to find since they are not NPT. They are 16mm with the o-ring at the end. My local race shop carried some AN fittings which allowed me to add the gauge.
I still want to replace the IP for peace of mind but now it gives me more time. Just need to find a good core.
New filter base with the fittings.
Filter base installed with pressure gauge.
Old filter base. Needed some new orings and the and the plug mod done but it was easier to just replace the entire thing to rule it out.
What size spacers did you get for the rear and where did you get them?
Wheels spacers I got from ebay. 1.5" thick. t6 6061 Billet Aluminum
https://www.ebay.com/itm/272969304186?ul_noapp=true
Dang...that's the best price I've seen...just ordered two sets (one for the rear of my K5, and one for the rear of my CCLB). Thanks!
Wait, do I need these too?
DO IT
Who are you looking at for an injection pump? I'm assuming the $800 is including the core charge and the reason you need a core is just to not have to remove yours and send in for a core. I'm sure glad my '83 doesn't run that screwy filter setup. I've got a plain old spin on water separator on the firewall and another spin on in the back of the valley similar to a 6.5L I think. Someday I would like to redo it with just an FS1000 water separator under the truck or the better Cat 1R0749 and an electric lift pump to help get it to the engine mounted pump.
