Um, no.Most steering control valves will act as a pump to give you at least some control of the steering in the even of belt loss.
Passenger cars/trucks don't use full hydro steering - they use hydraulic assist. That means you have a mechanical connection all the way from the steering wheel to the knuckle. The valve ties the input and output together with a torsion bar, so your steering input effort twists the valve and allows oil to flow for assist. When the oil pressure goes away, you twist the T-bar all the way to the "limit teeth", which is maybe 5-10 degrees (would have to look it up), at which point you are turning the steering gear worm directly, just like a manual steering gear.
Back to the OP: Try to get all the hardware that originally bolted the serpentine brackets to the block. Buying replacements can be a hassle, can really add to the swap cost and may not have the factory look.
Also, be prepared to drill a hole in your head. (or at least in the cylinder head
). The older heads didn't have all of the holes, but when you get the new brackets it's easy to mark the spot. Look up the proper depth so you don't drill into the water jacket. Of course you will need the proper tap for it as well. With aluminum brackets, I don't recommend skipping any of the factory bolts and/or braces. There are stories of them cracking/breaking.


