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Setting Valves & Distributor

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xdelirious45x

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Location
Lyndhurst, NJ
Ok I have the #1 Cylinder at TDC. I want to set the valves because I just put new heads on. In the Haynes Manual it says the torque spec for the rocker arm cover nuts are 100in-lbs. I have a torque wrench for in-lbs but ARE THE ROCKER ARM COVERS SUPPOSE TO BE BOLTED ALL THE WAY AT THE BOTTOM OF THE STEM??


My next step will be following the firing order and set each cylinder to TDC to set the valves.

Also, while i have the #1 cylinder at TDC, i want to reinstall my distribuor, however, my mark for the #1 spark plug wire is lost!!! When looking towards the front of the car I already know it is at the front left of the distributor cap. Will the gears at the bottom of the distributor still set right? ANY OTHER OPTIONS?
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I am rebuilding most of the motor, so feel free to add comments of any other problems i might run into.

THANKS /forums/images/graemlins/1zhelp.gif
 
I have always just snugged the rocker up somewhat, then with them all in place, i start the engine and let it idle, with the ratchet and socket in hand, i will either tighten or loosen up the rockers. Loosen them till they just start to tick, then crank it back down to where it starts to quiet down, and then about another 1/8 - 1/4 turn more.

Have to do it kinda fast though, as oil will be trying to squirt out of the pushrods and will get everywhere, unless you have the little clip on tools for adjusting them this way, they control the oil spray and divert it down then you remove them when you turn the engine off and reinstall the covers.
This is the only way i have ever done a valve adjustment and have never had a problem with them. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
 
As far as your distributor, i always set up no.1 to TDC, then drop the distributor in where it should be or actually backed off just slightly due to the gear pattern cut,,,,when you drop it, the rotor will move forward just a bit, if it doesn't sit right away, just "bump" the starter and it should just fall into place, What holds it from falling all the way is the oil pump rod. Bumping the starter will turn the dist gear just enough for it to line up with the tip of the oil pump shaft and everything just falls into place, then go back and double check out the TDC setup with the distributor rotor placement, should be facing right towards or real close to the no.1 cylinder.

Hope this helps out, this is pretty much back yard mechanic stuff i always do, and it has always worked out for me, good luck with it. /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif
 
Do not TORQUE the nuts on an adjustable valve train. That is NOT the correct way to do it.

100 inch pounds is probably the spec for the valve cover.

You need to use the method that is mentioned on comp cam's website, the exhaust closing/intake opening method. If you don't know what you're doing but you can follow instructions this is the easiest way to do it.

I have seen people do it with the engine running but this is not the correct per the book way to do it and IMO is very inaccurate and it should be done with the engine off.

Ask 100 people for their opinions on this and you'll get 100 answers though.

As for your #1 on your cap, it's suppose to be the next one clockwise from where the ignition wire from the key hooks up, but you can make number one wherever you want, just drop the distributor in with the rotor pointed towards whichever you want to be number one, then make sure all of the wires are in the correct order.
 
Well until YOU adjust valves with the engine running, don't knock it, it works just fine as you can actually "HEAR" what is going on, i have also adjusted them "the correct" way, and ALWAYS had to go back in there and adjust one or two of them later on if not imediately.

I've done it several times and it DOES work.

I swear, some people just need to quit reading those damn books. /forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif
 
Roll your eyes all you want.

Last six camshafts I've put in haven't been touched after install. Did them with the engine OFF and haven't touched them since.

"loosen until clatter" is not accurate enough for my taste. "Zero lash + 1/2 turn" is much better IMO for a hydraulic cam.
 
OK SET THE VALVES, NOW RAN INTO 2 MORE PROBLEMS, DAMN TRUCK. ONE BOLT GOT STRIPPED AND BROKE OFF IN THE WATER PUMP NECK.

ANOTHER BOLT FOR THE EXHAUST MANIFOLD STRIPPED AND BROKE OFF IN THE NEW HEADS. I'M VERY AGGRIVATED AND I THINK IM GONNA JUST WELD.
DO I HAVE ANY OTHER OPTIONS??
FRIGEN K5 BLAZERS
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Roll your eyes all you want.

Last six camshafts I've put in haven't been touched after install. Did them with the engine OFF and haven't touched them since.

"loosen until clatter" is not accurate enough for my taste. "Zero lash + 1/2 turn" is much better IMO for a hydraulic cam.

[/ QUOTE ]

Yeah, but your just a kid with book smarts, if that, i have dealt with several motors in my time, so anyways,,,,not worried about it,
 
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OK SET THE VALVES, NOW RAN INTO 2 MORE PROBLEMS, DAMN TRUCK. ONE BOLT GOT STRIPPED AND BROKE OFF IN THE WATER PUMP NECK.

ANOTHER BOLT FOR THE EXHAUST MANIFOLD STRIPPED AND BROKE OFF IN THE NEW HEADS. I'M VERY AGGRIVATED AND I THINK IM GONNA JUST WELD.
DO I HAVE ANY OTHER OPTIONS??
FRIGEN K5 BLAZERS
/forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif

[/ QUOTE ]

YEAH, talk with TIM, he knows the "PROPER" way to do everything, i'm sure HE can figure it out.
 
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Yeah, but your just a kid with book smarts, if that, i have dealt with several motors in my time, so anyways,,,,not worried about it,

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/forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif Yeah I'm a kid with book smarts that's why my friends have asked me to put in those last 6 camshafts. I know how to do it the right way. Talk all the nonsense you want, if you've ever bought a cam it has instructions on how to adjust it, and in the last half dozen I or my friends have bought I have never seen one say to adjust valves with the engine running. Reguardless to what you think, or what attitude you have towards me, there is no question that this is not the correct way to do this.

As to the broken bolts, I would start with some PB blaster and vice grips. If that fails, I would use heat. I wouldn't suggest an EZ out for something like this because if you break it off in there, you're screwed, you'll never get it out.
 
HEY TIM !!!


Whats this?
15839CDefault-53.jpg
 
/forums/images/graemlins/histerical.gif Your pretty funny and amusing dude. /forums/images/graemlins/histerical.gif

So you have never used these huh? aight, thats cool, but don't tell me it doesn't work and is not the correct way of doing it, i guess these little guys are for REAL mechanics that don't need those little books to tell us how to do things. Anyways, have fun. /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif

BTW, while you are reading up on how to adjust the valves, and setting up your little marks and such, i would have had my clips on and valves adjusted by the time you would even start doin it. Remember, they are hydraulic lifters, any very very slight difference in torque setting, will be made up by the lifter, now solid lifters are a whole different story.
 
There are alternative methods to adjust valves. IMO, after an initial setup with the motor off, the running method is very accurate. It is just a bit messy -- so many people don't mess with it.

You loosen it until you hear a clatter then tighten 'til it goes away (0 lash) then set the preload. How is that any less precise than the engine-off method?
 
Unfortuantely you can't adjust your valves with the engine running at 2000+ rpm for the breakin, so I highly doubt that you would have used your clips and been done quicker than me.

Quicker isn't always better either. Like I said this is a matter of opinion and if you ask 100 people, you'll get 100 different answers.

I don't have to get out a book to do this, I do it with a ratchet to turn the crankshaft, adjust the valves, start engine, break in cam, and you're done.

No oil mess, no spinning the engine over a hundred times with a new camshaft before it fires, none of that. Set the valves right the first time, start it immediately, and it's good to go once the cam is broken in.

I agree with you, the lash probably isn't all that critical, but I think it is far more professional anc correct to do with with the engine off.

My friends usually are shocked to see how I do it, but it has always worked for me the first time!

Yes I have seen those clips before, no I have never used them. If you use my method you won't ever need to take the valve covers back off after you fire the engine.

But, like I said, to each his own, if that's the way you do it, fine. That doesn't make your way correct.

It's just like when I put my tires on or springs or whatever. You're supposed to use a torque wrench. I usually grab the IR 2135TI and use the hillbilly method of, "Tighten until it breaks off, then back off 1/2 turn" but the reality is that this isn't the correct way to be doing things, and I'll be the first to admit that an impact gun really isn't the correct tool to be installing a pinion nut or your tires with.

Same deal. As you said, for hydraulic lifters it doesn't really matter that much anyway, but I just find it far easier and more accurate to do it the way it states above.
 
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You loosen it until you hear a clatter then tighten 'til it goes away (0 lash) then set the preload. How is that any less precise than the engine-off method?

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Because, "Whenever it stops clattering" is not necessarily zero lash.
 
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Because, "Whenever it stops clattering" is not necessarily zero lash.

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Of course turning the pushrod until you feel a slight drag is always zero lash.

Too bad there is only one way to do things in this world /forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif
 
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Of course turning the pushrod until you feel a slight drag is always zero lash.

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I would say when the pushrod touches the rocker arm that is zero lash without question.
 
OK I GOT THE BOLT OFF THE EXHAUST MANIFOLD. THE THREADS INSIDE THE HEADS MIGHT BE STRIPPED. ANYONE KNOW WHERE I CAN PURCHASE NEW BOLTS? I CHECKED AUTOZONE, THEY DONT HAVE ANYTHING. I WAS THINKING ABOUT TRYING NAPA BUT I DOUBT THEY WILL HAVE ANYTHING EITHER. I CHECKED LMC TRUCK MAGAZINE BUT THEY DONT HAVE IT.

ALSO, DOES ANYONE HAVE A PICTURE OF ALL THE BRACKETS FOR THE ALTERNATOR, A/C, POWER STEERING, AND AIR PUMP ALL INSTALLED? BECAUSE I FORGET WHERE THEY ARE SUPPOSE TO GO!!

THANKS GUYS

*LIFT YOUR TRUCK FAT GIRLS CAN'T JUMP!*
 
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