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Shopping for a Blazer!

Which year should I buy?

  • Total voters
    13
bassackwards

bassackwards

1/2 ton status
Joined
Jul 1, 2018
Posts
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Location
Tennessee
Hello this is my first post. I have gone about this in an unusual way. I don't yet have a Blazer but I know I want a full convertible and also want the modern luxuries like power windows, AC, overdrive and fuel injection. I also need seating for 6 so I may be adding a front bench unless there is a better way to get an extra kid in there.

I have a convertible conversion kit off a rusty 1974 that grabbed because it seems like if I chop the roof off a later model I may not find another. I also have a set of axles from a military K5 with 4.56 gears and 315/70-17 tires on nice wheels.

I'm looking at a 74 with a lot of metal replaced already, is that good or bad?
Already a convertible but has other issues


I'm looking at an 89 that has been parked indoors for 20 years that is partially disasembled for restoration. Already has all the amenities but not yet a convertible. It has the700r4 and NP241 with cable driven speedo which migh be nice if I choose an LS swap. It has a TBI now but has not been started in 20 years so it may or may not run but I've been tole they are weak on power when running great.

Favorite transfer case with my goals in mind?

I am open to any year and will drive a few hundred miles to get a good one with minimal rust. Are there certain years/ trim packages that will make my dream truck easier to build?

This will be a pavement princess and not beat to death offroad.
 
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All depends on how capable you are, or how much money you have...
 
Not really, if I need to stay within a certain range to accomplish my goals then I should. Too hard to cut the top off? Stay early. Too hard to make the speedo work Stay mid range. 90-91 speedo works with LS more easily, maybe that is what I want.

Everything is a trade off but I don't want to handicap myself from day 1
 
Daily driver or toy?

I hit the "modern" button in the poll, because I'm pretty sure that's what you want. OD or not, the amenities will be more plentiful and more likely to be in operable condition. Obviously I don't care about luxuries so I'm the wrong person to ask really :)
 
It almost doesn't matter what you start with.

What are you mechanical abilities?

Ever done a rebuild?

Can you do bodywork?

Can you weld?

How much are you looking to spend?

What is the final use for the truck.

Now some standard advice. It is almost always cheaper to buy built than it is to have someone else do it. Often it's cheaper even if you do all the labor.

Be honest with what you will do. Not doing this will almost guarantee a half done project sitting for years.
 
Theres more to a 73-75 k5 then just being a full convertible. I'm not sure where abouts you are but in California a 73-75 are smog exempt. If you plan on doing big modifications to it then I would shoot for the smog exempt years because screw the law lol.
Theres always aftermarket parts that will allow you to add power windows and such but you'll find a lot of people go back to manual windows because less wiring and less to go wrong.

It's more of up to you and what you want in you're truck and how you're gonna use it. If you're looking for creature comforts go with a newer k5 but if you plan of modifying it then go with an older k5...that's not saying you cant make an older k5 nice.

@Rugby_7 has a beautiful early k5, when you see it just think about all the work he put into it to make it as beautiful as it is.

So its really up to you. You can't go wrong with a k5 blazer of any year. Just promise me you won't buy the new blazer crap they just came out with.
 
I am an excellent mechanic and crappy at bodywork, that is why I need rust free. I can pay for a little but no major panel replacements. I want to start with the best body I can afford. I could replace floors and such myself but not quarter patch panels that will show. Around here there are a lot to choose from with minor rust so I can be picky about the year. 89 is already set up for overdrive trans with both a vss and a speedo cable and I know where there is one of these with 68k original miles in boxes.

No worries about smog police on anything pre-94 and our state govt just smacked down all emissions testing beginning next year.

It is going to be used for 90%+ riding around town enjoying the weather and not a lot of offroading. Itis hot here from May to November so AC is a must.
 
Are there more technical differences between years like 88-89 they changed transfer case. 89-90 they dropped the speedo cable, 91 they attached rear seatbelts to the top, etc?
 
bassackwards said:
I also have a set of axles from a military K5 with 4.56 gears and 315/70-17 tires on nice wheels
Click to expand...

if those axle are from a military K5 they will have 3.08 gears (10 bolt /10 bolt combo); the only way they would have 4.56 is they were regeared or are actually from one of the pickup variants they military used (Dana 60/14 bolt combo usually).
 
They are from a M1028. 14 bolt Detroit Locker in the rear and a Dana 60 with a Trac-Lock up front

truck-560440.JPG
 
My only advice is on the 6 seater thing since I also needed 6 seats for kids. I just added a center jump seat from like a 2000ish standard cab chevy work truck. It's the fixed version that doesn't flip down into an arm rest. I kinda just threw it in and drilled holes and bolted it down with some 3/8" bolts and large fender washers. It works til my kids get too big but I will just keep rotating the smaller ones up front when they are safe to ride up there. I would like to get a nicer flip down version with storage and cup holders later on and maybe move it back a little. The jump seat has it's own seat belt that kinda interferes with the factory bucket seat seat belts.
 
Thanks for that info! I have heard that a 40/20/40 out of a 2000s extended cab will be a great choice. I have not looked at one yet.
 
Sounds like you have the same sort of goals as I did when I bought my truck (Full vert, LS Swap). I ended up buying a rust free 1990, and chopping the top.

I'd recommend that for a few reasons:
Galvanized body, less rust
Modern(ish) conveniences, Power Locks, Windows, Injected, Overdrive, etc...
Better rear floor pan, More passenger legroom
NP241 / Electric Speedo for LS Swap
Return style fuel system for LS Swap

The Vert swap was my first welding / body project, and I managed to accomplish it. It's not all that tough to pull off.

-Rob
 
So 1990 is the first year for galvanizing? Tht could be a big deal but the 89 I found looks pretty good underneath
 
bassackwards said:
No worries about smog police on anything pre-94 and our state govt just smacked down all emissions testing beginning next year.
.
Click to expand...

I guess you are not in Nashville....we got excluded and metro passed an ordinance to keep testing through 2022. Sucks, but my burb passes without a cat. They are too dumb to realize it should fail before testing.
 
Outside of Nashville but when I had to go there my Vette passed with no cats and they looked under it with a mirror :thinking:
 
I purchased the '89. No rust whatsoever and had boxes of new parts to go with it! Of course it is in pieces because the old couple was getting ready t opaint it when he died :(
 
Congrats. That was fast! Let me know if you need help, there are a few of us up this way that I know.
 
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