CK5
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Shorty the crewcab. (Been saved from the chopping block)

81 CC short bed conversion
Radiator fix didn't work.

And door off for a side job....
 
Oops. Forgot pics lol

Oh and something is missing

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Door off will also make it easier to strip and clean the interior while I change the front seat.
 
All I have currently is the pinion shim from the other 14b. I'm going to add it and see what happens.
If that's not right then I guess I'm ordering a shim kit lol. Oh well. MAW right.
 
All I have currently is the pinion shim from the other 14b. I'm going to add it and see what happens.
If that's not right then I guess I'm ordering a shim kit lol. Oh well. MAW right.
Yeah that video is pretty good at explaining it
 
Not a lot of pics today because small chit. But today I,

Hooked up all brake lines,
Replaced one rear wheel seal,
Removed rear bump stop brackets,
Cut off all excess Ubolt length,
Torqued all front suspension bolts,
Hooked up all but one shock, (needs new mount at axle)
Hooked up breather tubes,
Hooked up steering,
Refilled the rear diff,
And figured out that the rear bumper should be easy to mount.

All I really have to do to move it around under it's its own power now is bleed the brakes.

Beyond that,
I still have to have the radiator fixed, bleed the hydro boost/steering system, build the new rear passenger shock mount, and put the front driveshaft in.

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Did a quick basic bleed on the brakes and decided to flex it a little. Rear springs seem to flex well... Fronts not so much lol.

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I think I'm going to pull the bottom leaf of the fronts and re install the 12" long bottom leaf it used to have. The current bottom leaf I want to pull is almost 3 times as long.
 
Only reason for that is to retain that 3/8" of height, and help with axle wrap.

Or

I could leave out the short leaf and put in a zero rate.

Main use of the truck will be wheelin, and driving to the next place to go wheelin.
With occasionally a trip to work or around town.
 
Only reason for that is to retain that 3/8" of height, and help with axle wrap.

Or

I could leave out the short leaf and put in a zero rate.

Main use of the truck will be wheelin, and driving to the next place to go wheelin.
With occasionally a trip to work or around town.

I didn`t have zero rate on hand so I just cut the last leaf down with a chop saw. More flex, same height.O cost.

Some guys might not like this...loosen those spring clamps on the springs.
My old Landcruiser road like a tank, I heated up the clamps with a torch and bent them straight up. Helped a lot with the ride and flex, I drove it like that for 7 years before I sold it. Never had any trouble with the clamps like that.
 
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I thought about doing that with the clamps. But I'm Leary of that much heat so close to the springs. :dunno:
I was thinking about making my own zero rates out of the old 3/4" thick overloads I have. Rounding the ends like the bought ones and such.

Either way i go I'm going to drive it around first. At least a couple weeks. Just to see what it's like and if they'll loosen up some.
Probably not. But I want to see how it rides anyway.

I have to pull the radiator yet, and get it to the shop. And I need to swap gas bottles so I can weld again and build that rear shock mount.
Hopefully I can do both today. Beings as it's the last day of my vacation.
 
Starting to worry some... I need to do a bunch of measuring.

But the left side of the truck sags...

The rear springs I put together I can see. I was skeptical about them anyway. But it was the only route I can afford at the moment.
With a straight edge from eye to eye BOTH driver's springs have 1" less arch at the axle. :dunno:

The front ones were supposedly never used. Rears have the top 2 leaves from the original pack, which was over flexed or something at one point.

It only has a driver's side tank. But it shouldn't have enough weight in it to do that, even full. So I'm kind of lost at the moment.

I did notice it before the swap. But thought it was due to the old beat up and broken springs.

Sits that way even inside the shop.

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Switch front springs from side to side , front frame horn on the driver side could could be bent . Have seen it a few times in trucks that have been jumped or hit a ditch real hard .

Didn’t you say that you had a little trouble getting the motor mounts to line up ? That’s an indication of frame damage.
 
Quick and easy fix is to add something like an EZ inch or a couple cut down leaves to the low side. I just did that to my K5 cuz apparently when I welded my spring hangers to the frame for the 64" springs I had something off a little. I wonder if just the bad rear spring is causing the whole thing to lean.
 
I found out that there's a tall and short motor mount. I think that may have something to do with the mounts. Not sure.

But I am going to do some measurements and see if it is by chance a frame bend. If so it may take on a whole different future life than the current plan.

I know when the front springs were out I had them sitting arch up, side by side, on the floor. And they were identical then.
 
All the radiator shops I found are permanently closed :doah:... I'm going to try one more time, and if it doesn't work I guess I buy one. That'll suck.


And it looks like I still need more steering correction. It has the drop arm from skyjacker. But since it's more like 6" instead of 4", it's not quite enough.

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Mine is about like that and it's fine. If I remember correctly according to Stephen that a little uphill is fine instead of being totally flat. I could be wrong though.
 
Every time we had a front lean it ended up it was rear spring issues.
It looks like you could benefit from a dodge 60 steering arm with a retaper.
 
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