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Should i go for it! 1975 k5 blazer!?!?!?!?!?

Should i buy the 1975 k5 blazer?


  • Total voters
    36
Looks stock height to me. Front springs flat or slightly negative arch is stock.

Rene
 
Ahh ok then that means it is stock because the front springs are flat.

I am prob gona pick up some valve covers tomarrow since i am going to put new gasskets on it.

Needs oil pan gasket and valve cover gaskets. very minor and simple stuff.:D
 
I was faced with the whole... should I buy a 1975 blazer question a few months ago, and the answer is hell yes you should buy a 1975 blazer! Lol just make sure that the floors aren't rusted thru!and read the buyers guide on the main page as its a good help!
 
Also can anyone tell if my blazer has some sort of lift on it already? It has 33/12.50/r15 bfg a/t tires.

It looks stock to me...but I don't know jack about lift kits. I think 33's are the biggest that will fit without lift and those wheelwells look full of tire...
 
Yea i think it is stock i love this thing so much already! The motor is pretty dirty and oily....So tomarro i am going to take it to the car wash and spray a ton of engine degreaser on the block/oil pan....Then clean it up as much as i can then i will put new valve cover gaskets,oil pan gaskets.


Also i got a guy who wants to sell me a set of headers and an intake for cheap but idk if i should mess with puting that stuff onto the truck what do you guys think?
 
Yea i think it is stock i love this thing so much already! The motor is pretty dirty and oily....So tomarro i am going to take it to the car wash and spray a ton of engine degreaser on the block/oil pan....Then clean it up as much as i can then i will put new valve cover gaskets,oil pan gaskets.

Don't forget to put a plastic baggy on your distributor and don't force full pressure water into electronics...but you already knew that :D
 
No i was not even thinking about doing that! dam good thing you told me...I will put a plastic bag over my carb and dist so that wont get wet or water in it. i need to clean all the oil off the motor and change out those gaskets so it wont leak no more.
 
Man i am so damn confused right now....The blazer use to be full time 4x4 but now it has warn locking hubs. The shift is wierd...It says 4wd low and 4wd low lock and 4wd high and 4wd high lock?

What do i put it in to be in 4x4? i think it only works in 4low lock and 4 high lock?
 
Man i am so damn confused right now....The blazer use to be full time 4x4 but now it has warn locking hubs. The shift is wierd...It says 4wd low and 4wd low lock and 4wd high and 4wd high lock?

What do i put it in to be in 4x4? i think it only works in 4low lock and 4 high lock?


Do you have the NP203 or NP205 transfer case?

What engine and transmission do you have?

If you have the NP203, somebody has likely installed locking hubs without installing the part-time kit...if it is only working in low lok and hi lok.
 
It has a 350 motor 350 trans and a 203 t case as far as i know.

When i put it in hi lock and low lock the front tires would spin but not when i put in in low and hi? unless i was doing somthing wrong but idk....
 
It has a 350 motor 350 trans and a 203 t case as far as i know.

When i put it in hi lock and low lock the front tires would spin but not when i put in in low and hi? unless i was doing somthing wrong but idk....

This is a quote from another site:
The full-time aspect of the 203 is all in the rear section of the unit. The case has an internal differential that selectively splits the power to the front and rear axles when the shifter is not in one of the locked positions. When shifted into Hi-Loc or Lo-Loc, the differential locks to provide equal power to both driveshafts. If you removed either driveshaft and tried to drive the truck with the case in the nonlocked position, the internal diff would send all the power to the yoke with the missing shaft. Its just like an open rear axle differential, where all the power goes to the tire with the least traction. However, if the case was shifted into a locked position, power would be equally distributed to the front and rear, so you’d be able to drive the rig as long as one driveshaft was still in place.

So what is happening if you have locking hubs with a standard 203 is that when the hubs are unlocked and you put it in "hi" or "lo" (not Loc) is that the power is shifted to the front axel and it just spins...when you put it in either "Loc" you have equal power to each axel and the rear wheels do the work.
That's why you need the "part-time" kit installed so that you can utilize all positions.
 
When i put it in (N) then it would spin only the rear tires...if i put it in (low) or (high) it would spin the rear tires like it was a (2wd)

Once i put it in (Hi lock) or (Low lock) then the front and rear tires would spin.


The way i checked the 4x4 was by going up a steep gravel hill so i could def tell which tires was and was not spinning. My brother was outside of the blazer watching and telling me when they would or would not spin.


Atleast i know for sure that 4x4 works in (Hi lock) and (Low lock) because i would hate for it not to work and me get stuck some where.
 
That's because "Hi Loc and Low Lok" are the two positions which truly lock the power to both axels evenly.

Somebody here can better explain how the Hi and Low uses the differential gears in the NP203 and sends the power to the axel with the least resistance...so it's kind of dynamic like posi-traction...sort of...
 
Nice score, Take the top of asap, you won't regret it.

You have warn hubs on the front, which means it probably has a part time kit, so the shift pattern has changed from what is stamped on your shifter. It should now be

4 LO
2 LO
N
2 High
4 High
 
Aww ok i get what your saying...Everyone is telling that the np203 is junk and to put a 205 in? but forget that i am going to drive this thing until it breaks and then fix it.
 
Aww ok i get what your saying...Everyone is telling that the np203 is junk and to put a 205 in? but forget that i am going to drive this thing until it breaks and then fix it.


A few posts back you were saying that if it broke, you could probably sell it and now you're saying "drive it till it breaks and then fix it!" :waytogo:

Amazing how quickly you can get attached to a great rig like a Blazer huh?

And BTW, that's a great looking K5 you got. You got a hell of a deal.
 
A few posts back you were saying that if it broke, you could probably sell it and now you're saying "drive it till it breaks and then fix it!" :waytogo:

Amazing how quickly you can get attached to a great rig like a Blazer huh?

Yea i have always wanted a k5 blazer and now i got a full removable top 1! Also the pics of it i posted are after the car wash i was thinking omg this thing is ugly...But after i washed it the thing looks pretty good to me and it runs and drives so good.
 
I'd run the 203 til it breaks or you have some other reason to pull it out. Just drive it for a while and enjoy it. Upgrading things can snowball as you get into a truck, and the next thing you know you've got a pile of parts and you're tired of messing with the bitch. When I decided I "needed" to fix a bunch of stuff on the Chalet, took me 2 years to get it back together. Still have more to do, but at least it drives now.
 
The more I learn about the NP203, the more I like it. I no longer have the opinion that it is a boat anchor...if properly maintained, apparently they are bullet-proof as well.
With a part-time kit I don't know what would make it inferior to the NP205 unless you think weight is a problem.

I am told that changing the 30 Weight (NO detergent) oil out often will keep them going forever.

I have a NP203 as well, and unless a NP205 just falls in my lap, I am going to add the part time kit and go with it.
 
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