CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Since bumpers are the hot topic, here's the set I just did

dremu

Officious Thread Derailer
GMOTM Winner
Joined
Feb 27, 2000
Posts
16,370
Reaction score
1,128
Location
East of San Francisco
And yeah, the rear one especially looks a LOT like Scott '4X4HIGH's. Pix of his were among the many from here I used as design inspiration ;)

I started with the rear one, as it was simpler. The base material is 2x8 tube, I think 3/16" wall 'cuz it's what they had when I got it. The tube had been stored outside, so I hit it with a wire wheel on a grinder until it was at least clean, if not weldable yet. Top is the scuzzy, bottom is cleaned.

rear-bumper-starting-2.JPG


I cut the edges of the taper off with a sawzall, keeping the bottom edge for later re-use.

To tuck the bumper up close, I cut a coupla inches off the frame (ignore the red doodlings; I ended up chopping it farther forward, as you'll see)

rearframecut.jpg


rear-bumper-starting-8.JPG


Once the edges of the tube were welded up, I used some angle iron to make the brackets for the frame:

rear-bumper-starting-10.JPG


And started measuring for the receiver tube. It's waaay too high to tow anything heavy, but it'll be good for emergency uses, like moving the tolly I use if the towrig breaks down (again), plus it makes a third attachment point. And yes, I'll get a drop tongue for it... this was all I had handy.

rear-receiver-hitch-2.JPG


There it is in its final size... short, but usable. I further added diagonals on the corners you'll see in later shots.

The other attachment points are the shackles and tubes from a CUCV, which I'd previously had on this truck. Instead of being just bolted to the frame as they were before, the tubes are now welded through the bumper on both ends, and the brackets *and* bolted to the frame. :D

rear-shackle-tubes-1.JPG


I ended up extending the channel further forward with some plate, so as to get three bolts on each side. Couldn't get in there to bolt from the top to bolt from two dimensions, but at least the channel should hold it in both.

rear-bumper-priming-3.JPG


You can see how the shackle tubes go all the way through in that shot.

And finally painted and mounted:

rear-painted-etc.JPG


Yes, the bottom right diagonal got a bit boinked during the welding and aligning. (If you can call banging with a sledge aligning... got a bit happy welding it in place before it was near 45* ... anyway, it's bloody solid, won't go anywhere!)

And as a sneak peek for my next post, the rear bumper was instrumental in bending the front -- the flat bottom surface makes a nice Hi-Lift point, if on solid terrain like my side yard :haha: In rougher terrain I'd prolly loop the jack nose through one of the shackles flipped up.

front-bumper-cut-and-bend-2.JPG


-- A
 
Last edited:
Hokay, on to the front. This one is trickier, as I have a winch, and an oddly sized/mounted one to boot.

Specifically, it's a Ramsey hidden winch, and its mounting style differs from your more modern Ramseys, Warns, etc.

winch-resealed-and-mounetd.JPG


The motor also hangs down a bit on the passenger side, so I'll hafta do something about that.

This time I just cut a triangle out of corners without actually removing the edge:

bent-seam-2.JPG


Then just hammer the flap down with a sledge, and do the last bit with a big clamp.

The brackets on this end are different, to leave room for my spring hangers, which are moved forward for the 52" swap.

brackets-welded.JPG


And this time the shackle tubes stick a bit farther out, 'cuz I got a bit tight on the back bumper.

shackle-tube-welded-4.JPG


I cut out a space for the fairlead to mount to, and testfit onto the truck:

brackets-mounted-2.JPG


Once the side bends were started bending (see last post, Use Of A Hi-Lift #378), I could bolt the thing in and bend them a bit with a long prybar to fine tune them.

One option would have been to sink the frame rails into the bumper, but I found this was tight enough and the extra 2" in front of the frame wasn't gonna kill me. I did, however, decide that the ends of the bumper had to be pulled back, as they were liek 6" from the front fenders (which are a bit trimmed.)

front-bumper-proper-assembled-2.JPG


And there she is all bolted up. You'll notice brackets on the bottom of my spring hangers; those are for a skidplate for the winch motor... more to come.

I also wanted something to hang lights on, as my original pushbar wasn't going to easily integrate into this bumper. I had some leftover bent pieces from my rollcage project (I don't yet own a bender), so with a little cajoling and sleeving, a bar was made up. It currently mounts the two lights I had on the pushbar, but when I have spare $$ (ha! when will THAT ever happen?) I have room to mount up another pair. Never have too many lights =))

front-bumper-finished-welding-1.JPG


And all mounted and painted up:

skid-plate-mounted-3.JPG


Scooting down some we can see the skidplate better... I do like the diamondplate (steel, not aluminum!)

skid-plate-mounted-1.JPG


My spring hangers are also moved DOWN 2", so that worked out well for the skid plate mounting. The skid plate has been reinforced with some ~3/4" square tube running across the back, so we'll see how long it stays unbent :dunno:

Finally, the side shot; even though I didn't shorten the frame up front nor tuck the winch into the bumper tube, I think my approach angle hasn't been substantially reduced.

skid-plate-mounted-4.JPG


And the corners should contact stuff 'fore the body ... not like I'm really worried about the body, rusty and Bondo'd as it is.

So there you go. No really exotic tools; obviously a welder, both 4.5" and 9" grinders (the latter is great fun, and makes quick work of rounding the corners after welding!) ... did torch some of the holes through for the shackle tubes, but could have sawzall'd them or used a grinder as a cutoff, in a pinch.

Point being that decent bumpers can be home-made, if you're patient, and don't mind Urban Smurf Camo :haha:

-- A
 
looks amazing, i may have to use a few ideas you gave me from your rear bumper to use on my front. thanks man..
 
thanks for the ideas! for me to do the front bumper if im happy with the result of my rear when im done! thanks for giving me some pointers of how to do my rear bumper better. ur bumper looks good! the grinder u got, from habor freight? hows it work??
 
1978K5 said:
Looks Awsome man

Shouldnt this be in you build thread?

Thanks!

There is debate (in the Lounge, IIRC) over the value of build threads, and a lot of people seemed to prefer topic-based posts, so I'm trying that.

sweet grinder, ive got the same :pimp: :grind:

Xtremegmc80 said:
thanks for the ideas! for me to do the front bumper if im happy with the result of my rear when im done! thanks for giving me some pointers of how to do my rear bumper better. ur bumper looks good! the grinder u got, from habor freight? hows it work??

Chuckle. Well, I'm sure it's no Makita or Dewalt or whatever ... but for $40 on the half price sale it ain't bad. I tell ya, when a 9" grinder jams up, it has a kick like a mule!

I actually used it to notch the sideways bends on the front bumper... cut two grinding-wheel widths across the back, and then bent the ends against the truck as shown in the Hi-Lift pic. The joys of working solo... you spend a certain amount of time working out ways to use brute force and hydraulics and such to make up for only having the two hands.

And for habitatxskate, or anyone else, feel free to use these as a basis for your own! I based my plans on a number of posts by folks here, and then customized to my particular truck, winch, needs, and skills (or lack thereof!) Oh yeah, and tools ... i.e. not having a mill handy ( :whistle: to Scott on that one! :D )

That's part of why I put up so dang many pix -- well, besides me being a pic whore, that is =)). IMHO, they describe what's going on better than words, and they also provide ideas for the next guy to improve on.

-- A
 
Chuckle. Well, I'm sure it's no Makita or Dewalt or whatever ... but for $40 on the half price sale it ain't bad. I tell ya, when a 9" grinder jams up, it has a kick like a mule!

I actually used it to notch the sideways bends on the front bumper... cut two grinding-wheel widths across the back, and then bent the ends against the truck as shown in the Hi-Lift pic. The joys of working solo... you spend a certain amount of time working out ways to use brute force and hydraulics and such to make up for only having the two hands.


-- A
saw one at habor freight tonight on 55 percent sale. it was only 28 bucks. i was gonna buy it but im scared to use it if i turn it on once, it'll stop working. happened to me before, cause my 200 dollar grinder is MIA (missing in action) my dads friends borrowed it and never returned it:mad: so i wanted to finish up my bumper... tomorrow im gonna learn how to use arc welder.. well hijack out. good job on the bumper!
 
saw one at habor freight tonight on 55 percent sale. it was only 28 bucks. i was gonna buy it but im scared to use it if i turn it on once, it'll stop working. happened to me before, cause my 200 dollar grinder is MIA (missing in action) my dads friends borrowed it and never returned it:mad: so i wanted to finish up my bumper... tomorrow im gonna learn how to use arc welder.. well hijack out. good job on the bumper!

I keep claiming I'm gonna get a good grinder.

However, I have four of the $30-on-sale-for-$15 HF specials, with one extended warranty, and so when one blows up they just give me another one, and then every two years I buy another warranty. It's crazy, but I figure for $10 every two years or whatever it is, I can stay in grinders. I keep one set up with the wire brush, one with a flap disc, and two with grinding wheels... never have to stop and change wheels.

The big one has actually been good to me. I busted the threads on one handle mount by dropping it (fricken thing is heavy and UNWIELDY! gotta remember to use BOTH hands ALL the time!) but it's still turning good.

-- A
 
once you go 9", you never go back!

i actually cut the top off my blazer with that grinder. and i fount the 1/4" grinding disk to be the best cut off wheel:)
 
Shweet!! Nice build!!!

I did a similar design except with some 2" x 6", .25" wall. Tapered and angled the ends. Frame mounts go through the bumper for clevis on the front. And added the stinger

mini-CROP-Picture 032.jpg

Resized_Picture 033.jpg

mini-CROP-Picture 032.jpg

Resized_Picture 033.jpg
 
How did you cut the holes for the receiver tube and shackle tubes?
 
Shweet!! Nice build!!!

I did a similar design except with some 2" x 6", .25" wall. Tapered and angled the ends. Frame mounts go through the bumper for clevis on the front. And added the stinger

View attachment 57627

View attachment 57628
do you ever hit that stinger on anything...i love the look but i can still see myself hitting it on a rock trying to get over it...
 
pgw said:
How did you cut the holes for the receiver tube and shackle tubes?
im guessing torch.. lets see if im right..:confused:

At first with the grinder, but yeah, later with the torch, as the grinder is ANYTHING but accurate =)) Mind you, I'm still a TOTAL n00b with the blue wrench, but it's like anything else, with practice I'm sure I'll improve some.

-- A
 
At first with the grinder, but yeah, later with the torch, as the grinder is ANYTHING but accurate =)) Mind you, I'm still a TOTAL n00b with the blue wrench, but it's like anything else, with practice I'm sure I'll improve some.

-- A
what i did to make a straight cut i put peice of straight scrap metal on the lines where i want cut, and clamp it down then torch is against it and start cutting perfectly straight along it. the square parts. ill have to use the grinder to make it straight and nice then ill fire up the torch and cut around it as best i can.. i wish i had a plasma cutter they cut alot faster and cleaner!
 
what i did to make a straight cut i put peice of straight scrap metal on the lines where i want cut, and clamp it down then torch is against it and start cutting perfectly straight along it. the square parts. ill have to use the grinder to make it straight and nice then ill fire up the torch and cut around it as best i can.. i wish i had a plasma cutter they cut alot faster and cleaner!

My problem with the torch is that it cuts a kerf about a quarter of an inch wide ... I gotta learn to tune the thing yet.

-- A
 
do you ever hit that stinger on anything...i love the look but i can still see myself hitting it on a rock trying to get over it...

Not to hijack here, i have never really ran in to a rock wall with it, i mean usually you get a tire up first and the rest follows. As far as strength, I have hit trees, ect.. and never had a problem. It is built out of 2" O.D., .095" wall I think.

Actually one time I was trying to push a junk one out of the trail that some idiot left in the middle of the trail (not my brightest idea, but sounded good at the time), anyway I tried to push it but couldn't, so I thought i would get a little run from about 10ft, well I hit the corner of the junk truck with the stinger, and I slid up over the truck, I teetered and flopped on my side. (dumb i know)
 
Hokay, on to the front. This one is trickier, as I have a winch, and an oddly sized/mounted one to boot.

Specifically, it's a Ramsey hidden winch, and its mounting style differs from your more modern Ramseys, Warns, etc.

winch-resealed-and-mounetd.JPG


The motor also hangs down a bit on the passenger side, so I'll hafta do something about that.

This time I just cut a triangle out of corners without actually removing the edge:

bent-seam-2.JPG


Then just hammer the flap down with a sledge, and do the last bit with a big clamp.

The brackets on this end are different, to leave room for my spring hangers, which are moved forward for the 52" swap.

brackets-welded.JPG


And this time the shackle tubes stick a bit farther out, 'cuz I got a bit tight on the back bumper.

shackle-tube-welded-4.JPG


I cut out a space for the fairlead to mount to, and testfit onto the truck:

brackets-mounted-2.JPG


Once the side bends were started bending (see last post, Use Of A Hi-Lift #378), I could bolt the thing in and bend them a bit with a long prybar to fine tune them.

One option would have been to sink the frame rails into the bumper, but I found this was tight enough and the extra 2" in front of the frame wasn't gonna kill me. I did, however, decide that the ends of the bumper had to be pulled back, as they were liek 6" from the front fenders (which are a bit trimmed.)

front-bumper-proper-assembled-2.JPG


And there she is all bolted up. You'll notice brackets on the bottom of my spring hangers; those are for a skidplate for the winch motor... more to come.

I also wanted something to hang lights on, as my original pushbar wasn't going to easily integrate into this bumper. I had some leftover bent pieces from my rollcage project (I don't yet own a bender), so with a little cajoling and sleeving, a bar was made up. It currently mounts the two lights I had on the pushbar, but when I have spare $$ (ha! when will THAT ever happen?) I have room to mount up another pair. Never have too many lights =))

front-bumper-finished-welding-1.JPG


And all mounted and painted up:

skid-plate-mounted-3.JPG


Scooting down some we can see the skidplate better... I do like the diamondplate (steel, not aluminum!)

skid-plate-mounted-1.JPG


My spring hangers are also moved DOWN 2", so that worked out well for the skid plate mounting. The skid plate has been reinforced with some ~3/4" square tube running across the back, so we'll see how long it stays unbent :dunno:

Finally, the side shot; even though I didn't shorten the frame up front nor tuck the winch into the bumper tube, I think my approach angle hasn't been substantially reduced.

skid-plate-mounted-4.JPG


And the corners should contact stuff 'fore the body ... not like I'm really worried about the body, rusty and Bondo'd as it is.

So there you go. No really exotic tools; obviously a welder, both 4.5" and 9" grinders (the latter is great fun, and makes quick work of rounding the corners after welding!) ... did torch some of the holes through for the shackle tubes, but could have sawzall'd them or used a grinder as a cutoff, in a pinch.

Point being that decent bumpers can be home-made, if you're patient, and don't mind Urban Smurf Camo :haha:

-- A
What did you use for the main Bumper is that C Channel or did you make it that way or is it 1x material. I am new to the Bumper making thing but need to get some material and get started
 
What did you use for the main Bumper is that C Channel or did you make it that way or is it 1x material. I am new to the Bumper making thing but need to get some material and get started

Mentioned this in the first post, same material for front and rear. It's 2x8 tube, .187 (3/16) wall. You might want .250 (1/4") wall, though it's fricken heavy.

rear-bumper-priming-3.JPG


You can see on the left side that it's tube.

-- A
 

Latest Posts

Top Bottom